nope mostly mud and maybe SOME rocks but not much. sorry didnt mention that b4. so then i dont need armor? ok locker, compressor,...

 

I'd still do armor.
At least bumpers.

Sliders are great for the overall look and they also give you a great place to jack up using a Hi-Lift.

I would make your rig capable in any kind of terrain versus modeling your rig after your wheeling style. That could change.

I used to be into mud - then I got tired of all the crap that went along with it.
Who knows where you'll be in a year or two.

Fink

 

do they make a frontbumber/skidplate thats like the bud built budlight on marlin crawler that would fit a v6?

 

yeah get a front bumper so your ready for a winch!!! and a locker,,, even a lockright would be god for you...lots of people street drive them!

 

I want the ARB air...mite be to much but just incase. do they make one that would fit my truck? MC only has em for 4cyls

 

While the person talking about a winch has a good point, if I were building a truck for mud, I would start with heavy duty skids and crossmembers from Budbuilt.

1. Rocks are ALWAYS hidden under there and you can't see them - just feel them when it's too late.

2. The smoother bottom provides a good surface to skid across instead of the gigantic plow that all the factory crossmembers are

If you're doing a Budbuilt front skid, I HIGHLY recommend the Sonoran Steel crossmember. In addition to keeping your frame straight (which is key, don't get me wrong), it provides a critical attachment point for the rear of the skidplate.

Budbuilt has crossmembers and skids for all the engine/tranny combos
www.budbuilt.com

 

Lmao... Are you serious? You can never have too low of a crawl gear in the mud. And I'd be more prone to do armor first on a mud only rig than a rock crawler. At lease on a rock crawler you can SEE the rocks, and you've got a decent idea of what kind of damage you're liable to do. You can't see anything in the mud until you feel and hear that thud CLANK.

 

plz forgive my retardashin but i am a noob to this stuff, the crossmember is what now?

 

The "brace" that connects your tranny/tcase to the frame-rails.

 

Swamp, I never understood why people say that 4.7 are two low for the mud. I guess if you have a crapomatic and can't select 3rd or 4th your screwed but with the 5 spd just grab a taller gear for more wheel spin. This is my next big mod for sure. I too hate those hidden killers lurking in the mud, could have used better belly armour a few times.

 

It's really a matter of situation. Really depends on what terrain you're in. If you're just on the trails, muddy trails, mud hole, water crossing, quick-mud, or where'd-my-truck-go mud. In a perfect world you have duals. One case with stock low gears, 2nd case with crawler gears. That way you can do hi, high-lo, low-lo, double lo.

 

I would think it would be difficult to get the speed (not wheel speed but MPH) you need to go through a long thick mud hole in 4.7 low you would max out at probably what 10 mph, if that in 5th gear 4low with 4.7s?

 

sorry to tell you but wheel speed does=miles per hour. 4.7's arn't that bad, ike got 25-30 miles per hour at around 4k rpm. not good for ten miles but plenty fast for any mud holes I hit.

 

k lets not start arguin like last thread lol

 

it's not arguing, its a debate for information's sake. I have always heard that 4.7s are too low, but I don't do mud, so my info is second hand.

 

look up the thread "SAS & rear suspension kits" and read the last couple pages

 

Wheel speed = how quickly the wheels are spinning, miles per hour = how many miles in an hour you are traveling reletively....for example your wheels may be spinning at "30 miles per hour" but you may be stuck in the mud going nowhere lol if you get what I mean you could be spinning the tires at what would normally would translate to 30 miles per hour but if you are in slick mud you are not going to be getting traction to go 30 miles per hour you may be going 5 miles per hour...so therefore the wheel speed does not necessarily relate to how fast your vehicle is moving in miles per hour...

I am not saying it is impossible to go mudding with 4.7's or they do not do well I am just stating some of the disadvantages to the lower gearing intended for "rock crawling" hence it is sold by "Marlin Crawler"

I am not trying to start an argument of any sort just trying to state some info that may help, or may not...

But back to the original question, spending the money on a locker will get you alot farther in mud than anything else. The skid plates as stated above would also be of a lot of help, however with only a $1000 budget the locker will take up alot of that...

 

Good point, but like I said all depends on the terrain that you're wheeling in. Sounds to me like your idea of mudding is straight line mud races (which are awesome by the way, I drive my bud's blown 350 yj on d60/80 with some 44" cut boggers all the time in events down here), and when you're racing in mud you'd typically NEVER drop it into 4lo because you're trying to go as fast as possible on top of the mud, not through it.

My idea of mudding is going through mud the consistency of dried out brownie mix thats up to your hood, and the faster you go, the deeper you sink. Definitely a situation where you'll appreciate having the lowest gears possible and some 4" knobby shovel cut meats to move some serious mud.

It'd be best if you told us what kind of wheeling you do, that way we can help you better.

 

Bah, don't waste your money on lockers. Weld those spider gears.

Full traction or no traction!






Edit:
I fully support lockers, I just don't support how much they cost...

 

I was kinda thinking the same thing clint