When I dealt with a very similar problem on my '87, I ended up going the "lazy" route and installing the $5 push button. I've seen it solve this dead-starter problem on 2 now.
These old Yota ignitions are notorious. Best of luck to you

 

Thanks for the input. I'm thinking it may be the relay for it because, if I remember correctly, the fuse box was exposed to the weather for a couple weeks while I was disassembling everything. I'll be able to tell when testing the plug that goes to the starter for 12v.

 

There are tests for the relay in the book, Soccer. Maybe try just testing that really quick and see if you get a 'CLICKITY CLICK" LOL. Also, even at my ECU, my starter only flashed 11.9V for a split second, when pushing the key to almost starting it(where I could hear the COR, etc.) Can't remember how exactly that all comes together for the 'go go juice', but it shouldn't be that hard to track down a Process Of Elimination in the FSM.(it will break it down, one by one, and then from one that checks out, ok, it will take you to the right or down to the next step.)

 

Sounds good. I will be out testing today once I finish up with work in the next few hours or so. I'm gonna give the 12v test on the lead wire to the starter and see what that comes up with. If it doesn't give anything I'm heading to the relay. It is one in the fuse box on the PS engine bay correct? I know there are two in there, does it state in the manual what they are both for?

 

So you did check that all your wires from the ignition 12v signal were still in tact?
You made sure the the neutral safety switch was plugged in or bridged.
And you ensured that all wires on the starter were connected to something?

 

There are only two wires that connect to the starter. The signal wire and the 12v from the bat. I haven't confirmed the signal wire, but will in about two hours when I get done working. Where is the neutral safety switch?

 

The signal wire is the first thing I would have tested when the starter doesn't turn. We are 3 pages into helping you and you have not confirmed if you even have 12V to this wire yet?

 

Guess so.... I wasn't aware that it was 12v to begin with until just yesterday (not the cable/wire directly from the bat, but the other one).

It is only 12v when the key is turned though. To my understanding, so that's what I'm gonna test.

 

cant remeber name looks like a canister on driver fender top about mid tire only other thing could be the connector under/beside distrebutor

 

Starter issue put to rest. Was getting 12v at the signal wire on ignition. There is no clutch switch or whatever it is called. It will crank without it held in.

Starter turns. It had to of been a bad connection somewhere b/c I plugged it all together and decided to give it a whirl and it started turning when I turned the key. Next issue. No fuel.

This is pretty straight forward for now. I'm just going to chase the fuel back to the source and see where it's getting hung up. The pump was good from the previous engine, so maybe from sitting for a few months it's being hung up at the fuel filter. No fuel to the pump or coming out.

 

1. EFI fuse.
2. COR(Circuit Open Relay)
3. Bad connection at AFM
4. Empty GAS tank, lol
5. Fuel Pump not plugged in over Tank/pass rear wheel well
6. Should have new filter if not sure

PS> Per FSM method, jump Fuel Pump at Diagnostic Port(if available on your model) .... make sure it's getting current and engaging with 12v to it.

 

I went ahead and started a new thread for the new issue, so others can know what we are now working with and it won't be confusing for anyone viewing:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...runner-224295/

 

I had a similar problem on an 85 model there is a plug below your air box that proves power to the cab of the truck. it is a round plug and goes thru the inner fender well and then back into the cab from there and powers the fuse box.