xnz

Hello all, I've been lurking for a while (also did a search for subject at hand, but didn't find something that was similar to this) and decided to post as I need advice.

Ok, I got this truck '85 22REC P/U 5Spd few months ago it was running rough and timing chain was making clicking sounds so I thought it was time to replace. The chain did not break, engine did not overheat, don't think it jumped a tooth either, but the Check Engine Light did come on. I replaced it with a kit from autozone, after that the engine was much smoother, but still running rough. So after that I decide to change the spark plugs, while changing the plugs I notice the one on cylinder #4 was wet with gas and the wires were quite old so I decided to change them and the rotor cap since after doing a test the last wire wasn't working. CEL still on (erased the codes by disconnecting battery and still turns on after a few minutes of car running).

Now the wires, spark plugs, rotor cap are new and I still get the same issue, the #4 cylinder does not fire and spark plug is wet with gas, comp test was done and was told it was good. There is a kind of hissing sound, like pulling air, coming from the back of the engine near the injector and the car smokes when accelerated from a stop up to about 5MPH, after that smoke goes away, and runs rough until 40MPH then it seems to be much smoother. The car also smokes at idle after about 1 minute of sitting and shakes a lot while starting.

Could this be a problem with said injector, valve issue (bent?), headgasket? I am going to be switching this injector to another cylinder to see if the problem follows the injector, but before I do any dissembly I wanted some input from someone who has experienced this problem or helped fix it. Thanks.

Team420

If you can hear hissing....I'd say you have a vacuum leak.... too much air will cause a no-fire condition... although... what you describe sounds more like a low compression situation to me...

xnz

I took the cylinder head off and tried the leak test, gas pours out of one of the valves so that seems to be the issue. Would sending it to the machine shop fix the rough idle, check engine light, smoke coming out of the exhaust?

854x4

What leak test are you talking about?
Did you check to see if that spark plug is firing with a spark tester?

Also see what codes you can pull from the computer.

xnz

I was told to pour gas on the valves with the cyl head sideways, if any leaks it probably is a bent valve (only one leaked). As to pulling codes from the computer, I tried doing that but can't find the TE1 E1 terminals to jump. I didn't test the spark plug with a spark tester, but tried with 2 different brand new platinum plugs and a special plug called anti-oil in case the issue was that oil was getting in the cylinder(only know name in spanish, not sure if it is the correct translation) and tried the same plugs on another cylinder and they all worked.

martinfan30

The way we do it is to invert the head and fill the combustion chamber with solvent or a fuel. You will know pretty quick if the issue is with the exh or int side of the head. The problem side of the cylinder will show itself by leaking into the int/exh ports. Either bad valve seats/valve faces, or bent valve.

martinfan30

If you have a hung open injector on that cylinder, it will cause this. Also, check to make sure that the ground side of the injector wire (on that cylinder) is not shorted to ground.

The connector should have a constant B+ on one wire with ignition on. The other wire is grounded through the ECU via a transistor to match all the inputs for correct injection pulse width.

Leaking cold start injectors can cause an issue, but you'd see a problem all across each cylinder.

The "hissing" you hear is most def a vacuum leak. Get a can of carb clean, and spray the manifold, and vacuum lines/VSV valves. Look for an increase in RPM, and you found a likely problem area for a vacuum leak.

xnz

Thanks for the replies.

I removed the head and had a valve job and had it resurfaced at a friends shop, it had both valves on cyl #4 bent and one on cyl # 2. I replaced the headgasket, but it still seemed fine to me (not like I was going to reuse it anyway lol). I had an issue with the injector # 4 one of the 0 rings was failing and was a little bit of gas, replaced it as well. Now all cylinders work fine.

Now I STILL keep hearing the hissing sound and it still smokes, only difference it now is completely white and barely smells at all. I believe it is burning coolant/water as the level on the dropped slightly after only a 5 mile drive.

I'd like to request either picture or diagram on where all the hoses should be at so that I can make sure everything is put correctly (I placed everything back as I found it, but previous owner might have messed something).

And regarding valve clearence, I put the IN side at .008" and EX side at .012" with engine warm and still seems to have some loose valves, is this normal?

Thanks again for posting.

martinfan30

Sure someone has a diagram...

I bet you have overtorqued the valve cover. That will cause noisy rockers. Back each nut off a little at a time until you hear it quiet down. YOu should really only hear the injectors ticking.

1990yota-pickup

that what i set my valve lash to ya, its pretty chattery but it should smooth out over some time..

martinfan30

They should be quiet if set to factory spec. There is something else going on. Too tight valve cover, valves set at the wrong point in crankshaft rotation, something else...

Piston slap or piston pin knock or slap can be confused with valve train noise.

1990yota-pickup

what did you figure out on this

xnz

Well so far most of the noise seems to be gone with the exception of the last 2 valves (cyl # 4). Found the hissing coming from the air intake hose near the air filter, it had a hole in it which couldn't be seen unless you looked specifically for it, also there was a slight air leak due to gasket not sealing well on the intake side, that was fixed as well.

The truck still smokes a little bit, does it pretty bad when going up a hill and there is the 2 valves that still seem loose, but for the most part it is fixed.

Question would be, do the valves get loose over time? I adjusted them when engine was slightly hot (could touch it and not get burned unless the hand was left there), do they need to be adjusted when it is really hot? And can loose valves cause smoke to come out of the tail pipe?

94'wheeler

there should be two different specs, one for hot valves, one for cold. Just adjust them accordingly. If u dont have an FSM, get one! its the best thing u can buy for your ride!

1990yota-pickup

the hanyes manual say's "valve clearances (four clyinder engine only-Hot)

intake 0.008" or (0.2mm)

exhaust 0.012" or (0.3mm)

martinfan30

Valves typically get tighter over time. In my experience on these engines.

Adjust the valves on this engine after a test drive.

Loose valves do not cause smoke. Smoke is caused by coolant leaking into the cylinders and/or combustion chambers, worn/stuck oil control rings or leaking valve guide seals. Not to mention an over-rich condition.

xnz

I readjusted valves as there were at least 3 that were loose, which is odd as I had adjusted them properly before, difference was that the engine was warmer that time. Seems to be a little bit smoother now, but when turning on the AC it vibrates a lot now. Also can smell fuel after turning it on and there is still smoke which is making me go crazy, planning of selling the damn thing as I have already spent quite a bit of time trying to find what is causing the smoke issue and rough idle.

1990yota-pickup

how dare you sell off your yota...

xnz

Lol. Well, I seem to have found another issue.. another broken hose (part of the air intake). I ordered a replacement and should be arriving in a day or two. Maybe reason was computer detecting a certain amount of air coming in, but that amount never reaches it destination due to vacuum leak and makes the truck smoke?

Anyway, I should probably replace all the hoses as these seem to be the original ones and have extreme wear.

I was thinking of keeping the truck if this is the real problem seeing as almost everyone I have met has said that these engines could reach 400K Miles easy and I was looking for something that would last me at least 3 years without major issues.

check6

I have ADD (LOL) so maybe this was already suggested and I missed it, but here goes…

When looking for vacuum leaks I use Berrymans Chemtool spray. I spray it on everything on the engine (over/under hoses, gasket joints, injectors, etc) while it’s running. If there’s a vacuum leak, there will be a change in the idle when the engine sucks the Chemtool into the cylinders. If you do the test on a hot engine, just keep an extinguisher handy…I’ve never had a problem, but there’s always a first time.

To see what is happening inside the engine, I’d have an oil sample analized. I got mine done through AAA. But. I understand you can get kits to do it yourself off the net. That may give you a clue if coolant is getting out of bounds, like a cracked block, or something.

About that smoke. Have you done a wet, then dry, compression test to all cylinders? If you got a cylinder with weak rings, squirting some oil into that cylinder may raise the compression during the test.

Good luck, and don’t sell her. When I’ve done that, inevitably, I run into they guy who bought my car who tells me he fixed the problem for $2 the day he stole her from me!