I have a new head and the 261C cam from Ted at engnbldr. He recommended valve lash settings at .007" for intake and .009" for exhaust. I did this today and immediately noticed much more clatter, or noise, from the engine. I don't know if I'ld characterize it as pinging or knocking but it's close. Is this normal? Or should I open up one or both a little more?

Also, the engine seems to have more of a "rumble" to it, almost like you can feel each individual combustion vibrating through the truck. I don't think I noticed that previously with the stock cam.

 

you did properly break in that cam right?

 

7 and 9 cold or hot? And a cam will have a little lope to it. That's normal.

I just dropped a motor with a 260 cam and they recommended .008 and .010 COLD. Most valve adjustments are recommended after warming up the motor is why I asked.

 

umm, nothing in the instructions from Ted about "break in" and nothing in FSM that I could find about cam break in. Answer is 'yes' only if you're referring to adjusting after test drive, I suppose.



hot, yea I did it after the engine was warmed. But Ted didn't specify cold or hot, I just assumed....

 

did you at least dump a bunch of oil or grease up the cam during install?

The "new engine" breakin "procedure" also helps "bed" the cam to the rockers. This is why you vary RPM during breakin so you don't flatspot the cam which can lead to abnormal sounds from the valve train.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0...cam/index.html

just because our valve train doesn't have lifters, it is still a mechanical flat-tappet cam, essentially a solid lifter cam.

My cam from EB didn't come with instructions either and the FSM doesn't mention anything about how to breakin anything really, including new engines and brakes.

I would talk to EB and ask them if not holding the engine at 2500-3000 for 20 minutes or so while varying engine rpm periodically would damage that cam at all.

 

OK. The new cam was installed into the new head by EB prior to shipment, journals already installed/lubed, I recall. I used my old rocker arm assembly.

 

ok journals were lubed, but what about the cam lobes?

 

I'm thinking it said the entire cam was lubed but I'll have to dig out the one piece of paper documentation I got with it. But I didn't lube it, to answer part of the question.

 

I would still contact EB to see if not lubing or "breaking in" that cam has the possibility to flatten a lobe or two, causing valve train noise and quite possibly performance issues with the cam.

I was always taught you have to always run that 2000-3000 RPM breakin on a flat-tappet cam. Roller cams are a little different.

 

I thought I might have heard it from them or have seen it in the FSM if it was that important. But it really is a little late now...

 

with all the break in procedures aside, and yes they are valid at this point, did you install the valve cover correctly? I ask because if you over tighten the cover it will make noise as the rockers hit the cover. Also did you adjust the valve lash in the right order and proper process? A simple break down of the process to make sure.
Start with the motor at TDC at operating temp. Adjust intake valves 1&2 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 1&3 to .009. Rotate engine 360 deg. Adjust intake valves 3&4 to .007. Adjust exhaust valves 2&4 to .009.
I know it sounds simple but as we all know people can and will miss the simple stuff. And on another note could the chatter be the injectors ticking? Your sig says 22r so i assume its a carb'd motor and the injectors are a non issue.
Honestly go back re-adjust your valves and see where it is after the first oil change and check them again.

 

OP,

I have the exact same head and cam from EB. I adjusted the valves cold on initial install, and made sure to grease the cam lobes as stated above. Then ran the motor for 500 miles, did a hot valve adjustment(valves were a little loose once i ran the truck) and now the motor is extremely quiet. From Ted at EB, he said that the head design they use helps keep valve tick quiet. So, I would double check your valve adjustments again and perhaps, as metioned above, check the valve cover

 

Yes, but not with torque wrench, a little snug but not over-tightened, I don't think the valve cover is the culprit.

FSM says rotate 360º. But, yes, i did it that way, warm engine.

I'll be able to get back to it on Monday, I'm thinking I'll re-adjust like you say.


I'll borrow a torque wrench and do the valve cover correctly.

Did you do .007/.009 cold also?

 

I did turn over the engine a few times without the dist cap on, prior to first starting.

 

I'll borrow a torque wrench and do the valve cover correctly.

Did you do .007/.009 cold also?


Yes, .007/.009 cold and then once ran did it the same warm, they were a bit loose after I ran the motor

 

you're right it's 360 deg. not 180. I'll edit it to reflect that thanks.

 

a tourqe wrench for the valve cover? i just tightened the nuts until the rubber grommets squish down a tad. i didnt evem know there was a tourqe spec for that lol

 

lol, yea, I did 'em the same way but it seems to be a possible problem so I guess I'll make sure...

 

I suppose a 360º turn of the crank does turn the cam 180º.

 

torque spec on the valve cover I think is 20 inch pounds according to the TTB article.