Ok so i had a 22r in my truck. ended up getting a great deal on a 20r/22r motor with less than 2k miles on it. i had a weber 32/36 carb already and all the adapter plates for a 20r manifold. when i put the motor in the head did not have the mechanical fuel pump boss. so i bought a electrical pump thats output is 4-6 psi. i have a Pressure regulator on and it is set to 3 and i have a guage post regulator that confirms the setting. ignition timing is set at 5. mixture screw is at 1.25 turns out. i replaced all Brake boost vacuum lines going to the Carb. took carb off and used gasket maker on all mating surfaces. its not as bad as it was and this is the best i could get it. i am out of ideas. The truck still wants to die under hard braking and wants to crank an additional 2-3 times after i turn the truck off. i really want to fix this before i deploy so any help would be appreciated. Thank You!

 

Are you using the adapters that came in a Redline or similar kit? I had some vacuum leak issues for awhile, and I went to the LCE spiral bore adapter(still a 2 piece adapter, but machined aluminum instead of cast), and that took care of them. The other thing is that you have just slightly too rich of idle jets if it only takes 1.25 turns of the mixture screw, but maybe not far enough off to make a big difference. Do you have an anti-dieseling solenoid?

 

timing set at 5 is kinda high, carb'd motor should be 0. Mine runs like crap anything above 2-3. I had the problem with it dieseling until I put the idle shut-off sol on it. No more issues. Well until I had broke off the electrical connector and this new one doesn't want to shut. Issue with the 70 jet I have in it though I think.

1.25 turns out seems kinda off. You should be around 2.

 

I had it set at 0 and It idled like poo.... Because I got 270 cams and a 20r head runs smoothest at 5. I do not have a fuel cut off solenoid. Never needed it before and was not diddling before just started happening since new motor with external electric fuel pump

 

it's because the fuel return line is blocked now with the electric pump(which should have been blocked off with the mechanical pump as well) and the pressure is unseating the float valve. New motor probably has a higher CR which contributes to it as well. Put the cut-off in. But unlike myself, when you install it make sure it shuts off. This way you can return it if it's not agreeing with the jet. When running, if you pull the power wire of, the truck should shut off, if it doesn't like on mine, then it's not shutting.

 

I'll do that I guess when I gt back as well as upgrade my adapter plates to LCE also thanks


... Just remembered my old motor had a wire off the bottom The intake manifold... Could that been a shut off solenoid?

 

No, the cut off solenoid will replace the screw that holds the idle jet now. Should be just to the right of the choke.

 

That's what I thought... But what was the wire off the bottom of the 22r intake manifold that went to (-) battery I'm sure I didn't need it but my buddy's truck did nOt have these issues with his truck...only differences between mine and his is the carb. He had a stock aisin 22r carb no problems so I believe it's in the carb somewhere

 

nope, that wire on the bottom of the manifold was for some sort of fuel heater crap. The original cut-off sol for the aisin carb should be off the wiring for the choke. All it is a switch 12v. If you don't have the original wiring still on there, you can tap off of the choke power supply. The original carbs all have cut-off solenoids. No you cannot use an original factory sol with the weber. Some people say their webers don't diesel even without the sol, but most I think will.

While I am thinking about it, you might want to consider also running an oil pressure cut-off switch for the fuel pump as well. If something happens to you in the event of an accident or a roll over, the electric pump is still gonna run with the key on even if the engine has stalled. The oil pressure cut-off switch is designed to shut the fuel pump off when the engine is below a certain oil pressure. I think you can get one for like 2-4psi oil pressure. If you put one on designed for a higher pressure it can take a few extra turns of the motor to start while the oil pressure builds up.

 

Now I know alit of the focus is on the dieseling but would all this also cause the stall on heavy braking.....yea the clutch is put in before someone asks

 

Is it a new carb? If not, maybe the float is too high as well. I'd say fuel pressure causing too high of a float, but you already have it regulated down.

 

Ya fuel Pressure is consistent at 3 n

 

Ya fuel Pressure is consistent at 3 nOt a new carb... Old one as I previously stated lOoked for any vacuum leak possible at brake booster but no joy