I'm continually fixing things on my truck and now I'm to this problem and want to conquer it as well. If the truck sits for more than 6 hours or so it will have a tough time starting up. Otherwise she will fire right up with one pump of the pedal.

Symptoms of the rough start up (every morning this happens)

I usually pump it a couple times before attempting to start
It will crank a few times before it it will actually turn over
When it turns over it often times will die right after it turns
In order to keep it running when it doesn't die I have to keep playing w/the throttle and even then it often times dies a time or two before it'll run continually w/o help
When I do play w/the throttle to help it keep running it seems if I give it more throttle it won't rev up past 2-2.5k (lack of fuel to carb?)
I'm not putting the pedal to the floor when I do this
It doesn't seem to matter how many times I pump the pedal, it has the same symptoms.

My opinion:
Something to do w/the deliver of fuel to the carb

After it has been started then shut off it will start fine as long as it does not sit in excess of 6 hours or so.

It seems like the fuel may settle down somewhere in the lines or along the process from the tank to the carb.



Anyone have some good suggestions on trouble shoots or ideas of what it may be?

 

It sounds to me like your choke is screwed up.

 

And that would only have an effect on basically a cold start?

Just want to make sure. Thanks for the quick suggestion

 

Yes, on cold start a faulty electric choke would cause the symptoms you are having. In warm weather, it wouldn't be much of a noticeable thing. Hope this helps!

 

yeah, it does help a lot. I have taken a look at the choke system and it looks like the choke breaker (CB) system could be the culprit. It has to do w/right when the engine is starting allowing not to rich of a mixture getting to the engine by slightly opening the check valve.

It could also be the automatic choke system, but I don't think it is because it has more of dealing w/the temp after the engine has been fired up and running for a couple of seconds. Although, after thinking about it, I do think that could be it too because I have to sit there and play w/the throttle for a about 10-15 seconds once it turns to get it to idle on it's own and maybe by that time the choke heater has had enough time to heat up and properly work and open the choke valve.

 

meh. hose down the top of teh carb with carb cleaner. hose down the linkages and everything that moves on the outside as well, then re-check it tomorrow.

 

Take off the air cleaner before you start it up. pump the gas pedal once. the choke should be closed now. crank it over till it catches. the choke plate should be mostly closed and it should idle up to about 2300 rpm's. it could be that the extra pedal pumps to get it running actully disengage the fast idle. when its negative 2 degrees over here in MT my old girl takes a little coaxing to fire up. It's probably not much warmer in Spokane right now.

 

I'd say it's probably 0 degrees F here in spokane right now.

I've put carb cleaner in the dang thing when I got it. I did it at idle until it was about to die and then let it get its rpms back up and then did it again. I did that several times and then I did it while revving the engine.

I'm sure it helped a little.

When you say spray the linkages and stuff around the carb, are you suggesting use the carb cleaner for this or something different?

I'll try to put some more cleaner in it again tonight and see if that helps at all for tomorrow morning.

 

Spray the linkages with the carb cleaner. good luck, Joe

 

Yes. Remove the air cleaner assembly then spray down the outside of the carb. Anything that moves or looks like it should move, you can spray with carb cleaner. It will de-gum and help unstick the choke linkage, fast idle cam and all that jazz. I'd put a rag on top of the starter to catch the drippings. And wear gloves.

Work the throttle a few times while spraying. If the engine is cold, the choke plate should close on the first pump of gas. It's probably sticky. Also, when the choke plate closes, the fast idle cam should flip and give you fast idle.

Carb cleaner won't fix things that are physically broken and won't unplug internal passages. But if it runs fine once it starts, cleaning the linkages will help a lot. The pivots and linkages will tend to gunk up and stick, which is the most popular cause of hard starting.

Hope that helps.

 

I too have been dealing with the EXACT SAME ISSUE for the last 2 years. I started dicking around with mine today (oops, can we say that on here?) and found a little torsion coil spring that sits on a shaft of the fast idle cam. I'm thinking it might be broken and that it places force toawrds the path of a closing choke valve. MY choke works, but only if I manually flip the choke valve closed while working throttle with my hand.

 

^^ sounds like a sticky choke linkage

Did you try carb cleaner all over the place yet? Spray the fast idle cam and the choke linakge and the choke shaft etc. Wiggle everything while spraying. Wear gloves.

 

Thanks for all the help. I will be able to pull it into the garage tomorrow and mess around w/all this.