SR5 gauge cluster swap help!
#1
SR5 gauge cluster swap help!
I have read every thread i can find on this and am still having trouble with this swap.
I have a 4cyl manual sr5 cluster i bought thats going in my 85 22re auto truck. When i plugged it in the fuel went strait to high(only have about a half tank tho), and my tach did not work. I have done extensive research on how to wire the tach and from what ive found people say there should be a capped green plug on the negative side of the coil. I dont have this capped plug but instead 2 bigger plugs with multiple wires going through both of them and they both go somewhere.
Do i need to get a cluster from an auto truck? I read this article on swapping the wires around but most people said it works without that? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-swap-140660/
Any help appreciated!
I have a 4cyl manual sr5 cluster i bought thats going in my 85 22re auto truck. When i plugged it in the fuel went strait to high(only have about a half tank tho), and my tach did not work. I have done extensive research on how to wire the tach and from what ive found people say there should be a capped green plug on the negative side of the coil. I dont have this capped plug but instead 2 bigger plugs with multiple wires going through both of them and they both go somewhere.
Do i need to get a cluster from an auto truck? I read this article on swapping the wires around but most people said it works without that? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-swap-140660/
Any help appreciated!
#2
its the wiring that plugs into the back that is causing the problem. the pin outs on the auto dash are different then the manual. get the factory manual you will see the way they are wired differently.I just got one from a auto truck,didn't need to see a volt meter anyways
#4
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Not sure on the gauge plug in correctly? I would think the cluster would work but that is just a guess, I have never tried a manual cluster in an auto.
Some trucks the gauge is Plug and Play and others you have to run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the "p" on the back side of the gauge.
Then what I did so as not to short out the electrical run beside it. I placed a piece of electrical tape over the little "p" and crimped a wire to the smallest connector that I could find.
I then ran a wire to the negative side of the coil, on a carburator coil it is a little different then a standard coil you are most used to seeing. This is a temporary connection til I can come up with a better connection for it later on.
Some trucks the gauge is Plug and Play and others you have to run a wire from the negative side of the coil to the "p" on the back side of the gauge.
Then what I did so as not to short out the electrical run beside it. I placed a piece of electrical tape over the little "p" and crimped a wire to the smallest connector that I could find.
I then ran a wire to the negative side of the coil, on a carburator coil it is a little different then a standard coil you are most used to seeing. This is a temporary connection til I can come up with a better connection for it later on.
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