Hello all, I have a carbed 84 toyota pickup. I recenetly picked it up from a buddy for FREE.. haha it sat for 6 years with out running so I went ahead and replaced front and rear main seals clutch waterpump oil pan gasket valve cover gasket and timing chain.. It ran good for a while and now its kinda crapping out lol. At start up it runs reallly rough like its only running on 2 cylinders. It only runs like a tip when its fully warmed up at about 210 degrees. I have replaced the cap and rotor wires and plugs.. Do you think the coil could be goin out? Also When I drive it ill be like 1/4 throttle and then if I floor it it boggs down and then it picks back up.. I am about 5300 feet in elevation do you think i need bigger jets. Can you rejet the "facorty" carb? Should i just buy a Weber? Speak your opinions guys haha

 

did you replace the head gasket, would of been a good idea.when i did my head gasket i was in a hurry and for got to do my timming chain gasket so im in the process of doing it now. coils normaly just stop working they dont give sighn of going out. if you got a toyota for free and it could start up you got a hellaofa deal.

 

Is the fuel system ok? Check filter and pump. For altitude, check to see if it has an HAC. It is in the vacuum diagram in the service manual. It automatically adjusts for altitude.

 

210 is just a little hot. I believe standard operating temp on these engines is about 195.

I'd rebuild the carburetor. If its one thing about carbureted vehicles, its that they don't like sitting (atleast that's always been my experience). It sounds a lot like the fuel system... and I would check the timing. For a federal truck... 1984 22R... I wanna say its about 5 deg BTDC. California models are 8deg. Check for vacuum leaks too.

 

yeah my truck sat for around ten years, I needed to go through the fuel system and rebuild the carb and it was totally worth it.

Filter=$5
Carb Rebuild Kit=$50
New Pump=$50 (you might not need it after the other stuff)

Post an update on how it's running
-Abe

 

Since you said it ran fine for a while... I don't think it's the altitude.
That it runs much better at 210 than when cooler suggests to me that possibly your carburetor is malfunctioning causing a rich mixture- float may not be fully closing, other seals or gaskets in the carb deteriorated, etc. allowing fuel in.
210 is hot, not necessarily too hot, but the stock thermostat is 185. If you're hitting 210, something else may be wrong as well. Maybe in the cooling system, possibly the thermostat isn't opening fully, your radiator is restricted / clogged (quite possible after setting 6 years), the fan clutch is bad... .

 

Ok so in the altitude I really have no power out of the 22r.. So I just bought a 4.3 and ill just make it carbed.. but that is the summer project.. So what all do you think i would need to swap. I will run a 4.3 with a 700r4 and the yota transfer case.. So i know i will need mounts and advanced adapters but what about a body lift? or a new cross member?.. Oh yea any one wanna buy a 22r with only about 35,000miles on a factory rebuild?

Oh yea and how big of a pain in the ass is it to rebuild the carb on the 22r.. I for sure need to do that since that sounds like its the main problem, since the fuel filter is new and the fuel pump is new..

 

I rebuilt mine in one night and installed it the next morning. You have to take your time, that is the best advice I got. Go slow, and separate parts in bags or cups by group: Air horn, upper carb, lower carb. This was the first time I had even taken a carb off of a car, let alone rebuild it.

 

The trick to rebuilding a carburetor is measuring correctly and keeping track of all the tinly little parts. Your average carburetor is held together by... 8 bolts at best. Picking up a cheap repair manual or downloading the FSM is the right way to do it as there is some fine-tuning that must be done afterwards and there are certain ways to go about it (like adjusting the choke breaker opening angle, yada yada).

Take your time and stay organized.

 

I would think if it bogs as you floor it and it sputters on and off it sounds electrical. If no sputter maybe the choke is not connected and slaps shut when you floor it.

 

i dont think it could be electrical as its carbed and it doesnt have 1000000 sensors and a computer like the fi models

and the choke works good...

 

Mine's an EFI but the connections to the coil or maybe even the high temp wires may be suspect. I also thought you might do a compression test. At some RPM there may not be enough compression to fire or maybe a plug is grounding at certain rpms. The reason I thought it may be sputtering is some electrical connection may be arching.