I put the trail gear rear disc brake upgrade on my truck last year along with the 1" master and wilwood proportioning valve. I have put just over 5k miles on truck and brakes have pretty much been grinding since I did upgrade. I took them all apart today to see what issue was to discover that the inside part of the caliper is basically gone. The brake pad is gone and 75% of the disk is gone. It is the same on both sides and only on the inside of the rotor. The outside is perfect and the outside pad is almost like new. Any ideas or advice would be great. Thanks

 

Pics...?

 

Hmmmmm....sounds like half the caliper isn't working.

What do you mean by the caliper is gone?

 

Sorry not caliper inside of disk and pad. It only has a piston on the back side which pushes forcing both sides to clamp on rotor. The piston is on the same side as the worn out parts. Wondering if the wilwood proportioning valve is to much with the 1" master and I'm having drag.

 

Also anyone know what the replacement rotor is for the trail gear kit? It just says gm style that does not really help me get correct part to replace. Thanks again

 

So your rear brakes have been making noise for 5000 miles and your surprised the pads and rotors are shot!!!

Sounds like they never worked correct .

take your rotor to your auto parts vendor and match them up.

 

no I'm not surprised that they are shot after not checking them for so long just shocked by the uneven wear on both sides of the axel. I will try napa or something just figured if someone knew a part number or a model and year it would make it a lot simpler. thanks

 

All the proportion valve does is bias pressure. Which master cylinder did you use? Hopefully it was one that was meant for rear disk brakes or else you'll need to add in a residual valve.

 

Sounds like the calipers are not floating. I'm not familiar with TG kit but if it's like all pros kit it should be using GM calipers and they have to float. They are mounted with special bolts. If the bolts where not used and some other hardware was used I would say that is the problem. Pics would be nice.

 

finally talked to the guys at TG they said everything sounds like it is hooked up correctly and probably working correctly too. they also mentioned about the floating rotors.they did say i should get rid of the wilwood proportioning valve and see if that fixes things. I am going to grease all the hardware for the floating callipers and make sure everything so operating smoothly and freely. fingers crossed. I will post results in few weeks when i get new rotors.

 

Are you sure you setup the wilwood valve correctly?

 

I believe so it comes out of the rear part of the master and plumbs into the line heading to rear brakes. So only controlling rear brakes.

 

Right but is there enough pressure going to the rear? Did the whole brake system get a good bleed?

 

Well I turned the dial down so that when I emergency stopped the rear brakes did not lock up. It took a few try's but they seemed to be set right. I did bleed them properly. From the way they are worn down to nothing on the inside it would make me think there is to much brake pressure being applied constantly or dragging. I am so not know to much about the braking system on this truck but TG suggested to get rid of proportioning valve and see what happens. If the prop valve was working improperly it would be not enough pressure and no rear brakes or to much pressure and constant brakes making them drag and wearing them out.

 

On my setup I rerouted brake lines to make the rear factory proportional valve inop, basically bypassed it. So, I'm may agree with TG on removing the willwood valve and see what happens.