Ready to pull my engine, advice needed
03-09-2018, 05:09 PM
#1
Ready to pull my engine, advice needed
Hi all
Getting ready to pull my 20R in my 84 Toyota 4wd pickup.( I know it's supposed to be a 22R)
Couldn't seem to find a step by step anywhere on here, please, if there is one let me know
Anyway, I want to pull it from the bell housing, I have already removed the 2 top bolts near the firewall, (man what a pain), and i have loosened up the 4 bolts underneath, any others?
I have removed the wires, hoses, accelerator cable, drained the coolant from the engine. I also have a jack ready under the bell to support the transfer case and tranny.
Now my questions:
Do I need to remove the top bolt from the starter? It looks like it might bolt up to the bell housing.
Do I remove the 4 bolts that bolt the engine to the motor mount OR the 1 bolt in the center of the motor mount?
Did I forget anything?
Please, anyone who has done this before chime in.
Thanks
Getting ready to pull my 20R in my 84 Toyota 4wd pickup.( I know it's supposed to be a 22R)
Couldn't seem to find a step by step anywhere on here, please, if there is one let me know
Anyway, I want to pull it from the bell housing, I have already removed the 2 top bolts near the firewall, (man what a pain), and i have loosened up the 4 bolts underneath, any others?
I have removed the wires, hoses, accelerator cable, drained the coolant from the engine. I also have a jack ready under the bell to support the transfer case and tranny.
Now my questions:
Do I need to remove the top bolt from the starter? It looks like it might bolt up to the bell housing.
Do I remove the 4 bolts that bolt the engine to the motor mount OR the 1 bolt in the center of the motor mount?
Did I forget anything?
Please, anyone who has done this before chime in.
Thanks
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 03-09-2018 at 05:11 PM.
03-09-2018, 07:18 PM
#2
Hi all
Getting ready to pull my 20R in my 84 Toyota 4wd pickup.( I know it's supposed to be a 22R)
Couldn't seem to find a step by step anywhere on here, please, if there is one let me know
Anyway, I want to pull it from the bell housing, I have already removed the 2 top bolts near the firewall, (man what a pain), and i have loosened up the 4 bolts underneath, any others?
I have removed the wires, hoses, accelerator cable, drained the coolant from the engine. I also have a jack ready under the bell to support the transfer case and tranny.
Now my questions:
Do I need to remove the top bolt from the starter? It looks like it might bolt up to the bell housing.
Do I remove the 4 bolts that bolt the engine to the motor mount OR the 1 bolt in the center of the motor mount?
Did I forget anything?
Please, anyone who has done this before chime in.
Thanks
Getting ready to pull my 20R in my 84 Toyota 4wd pickup.( I know it's supposed to be a 22R)
Couldn't seem to find a step by step anywhere on here, please, if there is one let me know
Anyway, I want to pull it from the bell housing, I have already removed the 2 top bolts near the firewall, (man what a pain), and i have loosened up the 4 bolts underneath, any others?
I have removed the wires, hoses, accelerator cable, drained the coolant from the engine. I also have a jack ready under the bell to support the transfer case and tranny.
Now my questions:
Do I need to remove the top bolt from the starter? It looks like it might bolt up to the bell housing.
Do I remove the 4 bolts that bolt the engine to the motor mount OR the 1 bolt in the center of the motor mount?
Did I forget anything?
Please, anyone who has done this before chime in.
Thanks
Which mount bolts depends on if you have an engine level gadget, the leveler is worth the money when you go to reinstall, with the gadget separate the two pieces of motor mount without remove one side of the plate.
Probably.. The FSM listed is available online, someone might mail it if you ask after trying the sticky links and a search.. Worst case hit up the parts store for Chilton's or Haynes.
03-09-2018, 07:35 PM
#3
yes starter bolts thru to the bellhousing.
Which mount bolts depends on if you have an engine level gadget, the leveler is worth the money when you go to reinstall, with the gadget separate the two pieces of motor mount without remove one side of the plate.
Probably.. The FSM listed is available online, someone might mail it if you ask after trying the sticky links and a search.. Worst case hit up the parts store for Chilton's or Haynes.
Which mount bolts depends on if you have an engine level gadget, the leveler is worth the money when you go to reinstall, with the gadget separate the two pieces of motor mount without remove one side of the plate.
Probably.. The FSM listed is available online, someone might mail it if you ask after trying the sticky links and a search.. Worst case hit up the parts store for Chilton's or Haynes.
Ok, kinda thought that the starter had to come off. I have the FSM, to what are you referring too?
So, you think that's it?
Would you know how much the engine weights?
Going to pull it tomorrow, then put it in the garage and work on her.
Thanks
03-10-2018, 04:55 PM
#6
Well, going back in will be (i hope) a different story, 1st I'm just pulling the engine then I will pull the transfer case with the trany when the cab is off. Then, "when" i get done with the engine rebuild and the wiring, cab, ect. I plan to drop it all back in the frame then add the cab and everything else I really don't know how long that's going to take, but, I have the whole spring and summer to play. More or less the same as kawazx636 did with his rebuild.
Just picked up a engine puller and an engine stand so maybe i get to pull the engine tomorrow. I need bolts though to mount to the engine stand, I think the 2 top ones are 10mm and the bottom ones are 12mm. Anyone care to confirm?
cheers
03-13-2018, 05:24 PM
#7
Well, the engine is out and in the garage. Now waiting to tear it down. I needed to order some bolts so I could mount it to my engine stand, something I forgot to do, dah
I really don't know how far I'm going to go with this. I'll start with removing the valve cover and seeing what it looks like. I would like to at least change the timing chain, oil and water pump. Just might go all the way and do a complete rebuild. I don't know how many miles are on her, I have a place that does engine work, I found about about them from a Toyota friend of mine, says they do good work. I'll have to go talk to them and see everything that they do. Guess we'll see, any thoughts?
I really don't know how far I'm going to go with this. I'll start with removing the valve cover and seeing what it looks like. I would like to at least change the timing chain, oil and water pump. Just might go all the way and do a complete rebuild. I don't know how many miles are on her, I have a place that does engine work, I found about about them from a Toyota friend of mine, says they do good work. I'll have to go talk to them and see everything that they do. Guess we'll see, any thoughts?
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03-24-2018, 08:12 PM
#8
Update
Torn down the engine and it looks like it was rebuilt at some point. The top end, rocker arms look "clean" and the bottom end looks just as good. Now "if" I didn't tear it down it .............. O well, guess it's better to find out if it all was good, I just can't believe how good. Block is in the shop, he'll check the bores and crank and let me know if it needs to be bored or just honed. I'll have the block checked and hot tanked and then bead blasted and new freeze pugs installed and then paint it when i get her home.
It has standard size bearings in the mains and rods, so everything looks to be original. I've been degreasing all the parts, think I'll end up keeping the timing chain cover, but I think i'll spring for a new timing chain. Oil and water pumps look ok so I think I'll keep them as well, I think.
I could just spend the $$ for new. LCE has all the parts and good quality but a bit pricey I guess what I'm asking is, should I just buy them new or keep what I have. Dammed if you do, and dammed if you don't comes to mind.
Always open to suggestion from the crew here.
Torn down the engine and it looks like it was rebuilt at some point. The top end, rocker arms look "clean" and the bottom end looks just as good. Now "if" I didn't tear it down it .............. O well, guess it's better to find out if it all was good, I just can't believe how good. Block is in the shop, he'll check the bores and crank and let me know if it needs to be bored or just honed. I'll have the block checked and hot tanked and then bead blasted and new freeze pugs installed and then paint it when i get her home.
It has standard size bearings in the mains and rods, so everything looks to be original. I've been degreasing all the parts, think I'll end up keeping the timing chain cover, but I think i'll spring for a new timing chain. Oil and water pumps look ok so I think I'll keep them as well, I think.
I could just spend the $$ for new. LCE has all the parts and good quality but a bit pricey I guess what I'm asking is, should I just buy them new or keep what I have. Dammed if you do, and dammed if you don't comes to mind.
Always open to suggestion from the crew here.
03-25-2018, 08:49 PM
#9
Timing chain with metal backed guid rod is a MUST!!!
Oil and water pump are fairly easy to change afterwards, but oil pump has the crank bolt to deal with. And if they were working fine before then run them if money is tight.
Most people recommend using a Toyota factory head gasket, Engnbldr head gaskets also get good reviews. We also warn of using "box store brand head gaskets. They seem to have a higher failure rate, "seem to...".
We want to see pics of the rebuild.
#make22recoolagain
Oil and water pump are fairly easy to change afterwards, but oil pump has the crank bolt to deal with. And if they were working fine before then run them if money is tight.
Most people recommend using a Toyota factory head gasket, Engnbldr head gaskets also get good reviews. We also warn of using "box store brand head gaskets. They seem to have a higher failure rate, "seem to...".
We want to see pics of the rebuild.
#make22recoolagain
03-26-2018, 10:44 PM
#10
Timing chain with metal backed guid rod is a MUST!!!
Oil and water pump are fairly easy to change afterwards, but oil pump has the crank bolt to deal with. And if they were working fine before then run them if money is tight.
Most people recommend using a Toyota factory head gasket, Engnbldr head gaskets also get good reviews. We also warn of using "box store brand head gaskets. They seem to have a higher failure rate, "seem to...".
We want to see pics of the rebuild.
#make22recoolagain
Oil and water pump are fairly easy to change afterwards, but oil pump has the crank bolt to deal with. And if they were working fine before then run them if money is tight.
Most people recommend using a Toyota factory head gasket, Engnbldr head gaskets also get good reviews. We also warn of using "box store brand head gaskets. They seem to have a higher failure rate, "seem to...".
We want to see pics of the rebuild.
#make22recoolagain
It's a 20R so it has double chain and steel guides
Well, a bit of bad news from the shop, the block needs to be bored, it was tapered and out of spec so going to get it bored out .020, I just ordered the master rebuild kit from LCE which includes oil and water pump, full gasket set, freeze plugs, .020 oversized pistons and rings timing chain with steel guides and all the bearings. The crank was good just needs to be polished up so standard size bearings. Don't know if I want to get a new timing cover, the one I have seems to be ok but at this point I just might as well pony up for a new one. Once I get the kit I'll drop it off to the shop and let him do his thing. Then I will finish ordering all the other parts from LCE that I would like to have, new bolts all around for one thing. And the egr block off plate that I didn't order with the smog delete and weber carb order.
His bother at the shop does the heads so I have to wait to hear from him on that, hope that goes well.
Having fun............
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