Hey everyone,
I'm currently building my custom frame and what not for my 85 pickup Xtra cab. I have the 22RE with a 5spd 4x4. My question is, would putting in a stright drive shaft instead of one with a berring carrier give me more torqe to the rear wheels? Improve performance and or power of the truck? I know it is about 3" shorter coming out of an automatic 4x4 truck then the one with the carrier in it. I would simply move my leaf mounts forward to make up for the length diff. It is custom so I can do what I like at this point yet in the build. Any imput or advice would be great! Thanks!

 

Those 2 piece driveshafts are a pain in the ass. get rid of it and have one built you will be saving your self lots of money in the long run. custom drive shafts around here cost about 200 bucks. WELL worth the money. You can get them in a thicker wall tubing too.

 

I got it all figured out and ill post some pics too. Im going with the straight shaft outa the automatic. the truck is on all 4's all by itself for the first time over 2 months! lol

 

11/22/08
In the shed ready for cut.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...01864_1841.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...01866_2484.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...01867_4231.jpg


11/26/08
In the shop. Frame welded up with some cross members and figuring out drive shaft, leaf placement and shackle locations for rear.

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...07345_7753.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...07347_8281.jpg


12/7/08
I have the cab on. Need to make brackets to mount box to frame and finish up mounting the tank under it all. After this is done it will be re-wiring everything and putting it all back together. A long road no doubt...

 

nice work.

Wanna give me a deal on those rims?

I got a few sets, maybe we could trade?

 

hey you! I already got dibs on those rims So settle down.

 

damnit! I really really like them, I wish I knew where to hunt down a set...

 

I really really like them too, That's why I offered to buy them as soon as I saw them

 

Take it easy you two! They will be for sale when I get enough money to buy new 10" wide wheels. Heck, I havent even got to drive it with these yet!

I snaped a couple pics today of it with the body on it. Ill post them here in a bit. It looks ugly I think with a red body and yellow frame. Cant wait till I get the truck bed linered from bumper to bumper. Just the spray can type for this ol' girl. Still has a ways to go before that time come tho.

 

Its a LONG way from finished but its on their anyways. Yes the 3" body lift spacers are "cocked" to the back a bit but the body isnt tightend down yet or set in stone right where it is yet. No I wont be using the shocks you see on it. No, the frame is not done being sprayed yet. I still need to take the box off and weld up frame breakets for it to mouunt to and also mount the fuel tank. Yes, the drivers fender is and will be the only good peice of metal on this truck.

 

Very sweet build! Those cab swaps sure are fun smart choice labelling those connectors.

I'm curious as to WHY you went with the channel frame? Granted a full size frame probably has a thicker gauge steel, but I think I'd choose boxed over channel steel. Or wideflange... never seen an I-beam frame before.

As for the turbine wheels... those look a LOT like the American Racing Vector rims. You might have noticed them on the General Lee... as well as the 1970's Jeep Wagoneers. Those have something similar as well.

Anyway... looking forward to the finished project!

 

If you notice the colour of my truck as well as the Novelty horn I'm putting it it at some point, it becomes quite obvious why I want those rims

 

Yea cab swaps are just awsome, your right...

I went with the "C" frame because...well it was free. Actually my dad had it from when he was a kid and I just randomly found it one day out behind my grandparents place. What do mean by I-beam frame?

The turbine wheel have been on the white yota I have for 15+ years. Only a few years after the original purchace of the truck. It was my uncles, then cousins, then uncles again, and now mine. I like them because of like you mentioned the look of the General Lee but at the same time want the Pro Comp Black 10" wide wagon wheels... idn, just somthing about them I like.

 

Still got lots of work inside the cab to do yet before she hits the road but at the moment im trying to just get the drive train and engin bay completed.

 

Do I need to keep this on the truck or can it be removed and lines hooked directly to the wheels? Why are their 2 lines that go in and only one that comes out? Any help or a how-to would be great! I would like to eliminate it.

 

thats your load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV), you do need that or a replacement from Summit Racing, though I recommend you retain the stock one, as it applies more or less brake pressure based on the load in the bed of the truck. the one from Summit is a fixed setting.

this value keeps the back brakes from locking up and sends whatever extra pressure it doesn't use to the front brakes (why there is 3 lines haha).

 

I knew that was what it did I just wasnt sure if it could just be taken off. Im not sure if it is any good is the problem....how can I test it, is their a way by takeing it off and testing it or do I need to wait untill im ready to bleed the brakes?. Thanks

 

I personally never heard of one going bad. as long as the arm moves up and down and fluid flows through it, it should be in working condition

 

okok. Thank you.

 

That is one hell of a build...