Throttle clearance.......Terminals......Resistance.....My Reading
0.00.........................VTA-E2.......200-800..........0.06 (600?)
0.57.........................IDL-E2........<2.3K.............1?
0.85.........................IDL-E2........Open/infinite....1?
wide open.................VTA-E2........3.3K-10K.........6.1
N/A..........................Vcc-E2........3.0K-7K..........4.9

I am still having troubles setting the timing after changing the timing set. The marks jump around alot and when I jump the check connectors nothing changes. I have a loud knock but it sounds like a spark knock and is hopefully associated with being out of time. Today I tested the TPS using 4crawlers page and my results are above. Tests 1,4,and 5 seemed okay. What does the 1 reading mean on tests 2 and 3? No matter where the throttle was at I got a reading of 1 on IDL-E2. Is my TPS bad or was I maybe using the wrong setting?

 

A reading of 1 means open/infinite right? I've never used a Multimeter before.

 

1 on tests 2 and 3 mean that there is an open circuit. In other words, no conductivity. If you get 1 for 3 and something for 2, you should be fine.

Have you tried using a 0.70 mm feeler gauge? You want to turn the TPS clockwise until you just get a reading. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks yotajunky. So I guess test #3 was Ok then also. But I shouldn't be getting a reading of 1 for test #2. What could that mean? Maybe it thinks its getting throttle all the time? I'll try adjusting it but I'll probably have to replace the tps. I am also not getting any check codes when I jump the test connector, should I be if the tps was bad? Thanks.

 

I've done the T.C.nthree times on my '89 and never pulled the head. I remember the first time I did it I didn't realize there was a bolt at the front end of the head that threaded into the T.C. cover! I found that when I stuck my finger in a small pocket of oil and felt the bolt head. I used all Toyota parts-chain, guides, gears and tensioner. The second time I used an A-zone kit and ended up having to do it again with only slightly over 50K on that kit. Needless to say I went back to the oem kit even if it cost more. Never tried the EB kit but have heard/ read GOOD things about it. Maybe it would be better/easier pulling the head but I was just lucky and never had to. Wish I had a heated garage.

 

If you are not getting errors codes displayed when (you think) you have the jumped the test connector, then you probably do not have it correctly jumped. With all the silicone goop all around, you may have to work at getting a good connection.

 

Thanks Jeff, just to make sure I am using the right connector. It's and 85 and I do not have the gray diagnostics box by the fuse box. I believe instead I am supposed to jump the smaller of the two round, plastic connectors in the drivers side fenderwell. The smaller one has a green and black wire that I am using a paperclip or wire to connect to each other. Sound correct?

What years TPS fit an 85?

 

Should try to make an audio or Video recording and post it up so someone could listen to it.

This sounds like a nightmare to troubleshoot on the internet.

 

No, you should be getting a reading other than 1 for test #2, even if it's a very small number. You may not get any check codes for the TPS when you jump E1-T1, unless you've unplugged the TPS wire.

Try adjusting it again with a 0.7 mm feeler gauge and look for a deflection on your ohmmeter for E2-IDL before you tighten the screws. After that, check the other tests.

Hope this helps.

 

I'm not sure about the earlier diag connector, but it sounds like you're doing it correctly. You should be seeing codes! I do not think that a bad tps can clobber the diag port/flashing, or else, how would a bad tps generate codes?

You really need a spare tps to swap out! Looks like a '85 PU TPS will fit, the '85 PU, '85 4Rnr, '85 Supra, '85-'86 MR2, '85-'88 Cressida, '85-'87 Corolla, and, '82-'85 Celica (thanks Partsamerica!).

 

Theres and 87 4runner at upullapart right up the road but 1st gens are impossible to find around here. Wonder if the tps of the 87 would work?

I just took it for a drive to get some gas. It idles ok but still knocks. When its in N it will rev just fine but in gear wont go past 20, and when I start to let up on the pedal the rpm's will usually surge up a bit. I'll retest the TPS tomorrow, pull the throttle body and inspect the tps. I really wish I knew what that stupid knock was. I really really really wish I could find a 22re expert in the Quad Cities. I have been tinkering with this motor on and off now for almost a year. You get to a point when you just need some input from another person.

 

Those Cressida's and Corolla's might be ripe for picking a tps at upullapart...

Recently, I did a HG and timing chain on my '89 PU. I experienced problems similar to yours, with timing/tps/diag-jumper coordination. And, I had a bad noise, too! Clicky-clackly! Wouldn't time. I pulled and reset the distributor over and over. Jumping the diag port didn't change timing (it did flash diags, however). It was a bit of a bother. Pressing forward, I pulled the plugs and the valve cover; then I rotated the engine by the crank pulley bolt. The NOISE was #4 intake valve sticking open, then clattering closed (piston kissing it?). It did not make sense, but that's where it was coming from.

Subsequently, I mastered the knowledge of the application of the TPS. I had classic symptoms (like you!). In particular: failure of the jumper to change idle timing - that IDL signal has to be toggled ("on"/"off" - i dunno) when the butterfly is at Idle, and then flip when it first comes off idle...

Onward... Seems like the noise was kinda related to the brief episodes of kickback when I was learning about timing. In any case, the noise, eventually, quit! Good riddance! Quirky!

Currently, the truck starts and runs flawlessly. Clean oil, no hesitation, good engine temps - Not a lot miles, yet, though. I was worried that the valve would be bent if there was interference with the piston. I have good compression, so apparently the valve was not bent. I think I was lucky. I was gearing up to swap the head, as a backup strategy. I'm glad it didn't get that far! But, that would have fixed the symptoms, as well, but at greater toll. The turning point seemed to be when I was able to finally get the timing right! The noise didn't stop immediately; it would clatter, sometimes, on startup, but then, it went away.

I believe what I experienced was a one-off; but maybe you/i are in some parallel universes. woooowoowooeeeee...

Perhaps your problems will disappear, like mine! Good luck!

background:this engine ran good, but needed a timing chain. there was a LOT of crud in the water jacket. it probably ran hot. i pulled and cleaned the head ("looked good"), did the TC, pulled the pan, flushed the water jacket, etc., etc.

 

I think we are in parralell universis', dude, that sounds exactly like my problem. I am alomost positive the noise is an intake valve sticking. I have been in denial saying it's a spark knock. If its a valve I dont think its bent though because Ive put about 5000 miles on it like this(before timing chain). Really, I had all these symptoms(noise,miss) before I changed the timing chain. I thought the noise was the chain slapping, which it was, but I still have noise. I am just going to tinker with it until I can get the timing right. It is currently set at 12 degrees BTDC and jumps around +-5 degrees. So right now I am going to silicone up the test connectors(maybe I wasn't getting a good connection) and try to troubleshoot the tps again, probably go grab a used one from the junk yard if I can. I'll post up when I can figure something out.

My dad came over and said, "Are you sure it's not a diesel, Ha Ha".

 

I just bought a 90 4runner with a 22re that has the same sound accompanied by an intermittant miss and low compression in #2.
Its driving me nuts trying to find it as well.

 

OK, the kids went to bed early last night and I got a chance to tinker with the truck. I pulled the throttle body and boy was it dirty. Lots, and lots of black buildup. I pulled the TPS and sure enough it was not fully closed. I cleaned the TPS so it worked smoothly and closed all of the way, put everything back together and it ran like a brand new truck.
It still ran like crap but better quality crap. I put a timing light on it and the timing marks didn't jump around anymore. However I jumped the diagnostic connector and still had no change in the timing and still get no codes. I set it to 12 degrees BTDC, and took it for a drive. It doesn't hesitate anymore and I can cruise at 65 I have made a lot of progress(its driveable) but am still having issues.

Issue #1 Why wont jumping the connector do anything? The TPS tests out OK. What else can I do?

Issue #2 Idle goes up and down when pressing the brake. Doesn't do it all the time. Idles fine otherwise. May have done it before but it ran so bad it was hard to tell.

Issue #3 Still have loud clatter coming from the intake side of the head. Could be related to everything else(timing)? If it were a bent valve it should miss or something right? It runs great now but just has a loud noise. What could it be and what could I do?

In the shortrun I plan to retest the TPS at the TPS and ECU. Look for vacuum leaks as always. Do a compression check? Other than that I am lost.

In the longrun I feel I may have to pull the head. Although I am not going to go that route until I can set the timing correctly.

Any suggestions on 1, 2, or 3. These are just my current issues. There will be more when I figure these out. Thanks

 

I don't know. As you had said, if the TPS tests out fine, jumping E1-T1 should drop the rpm.


You may have the idle set too high. If so, use the idle screw and drop it to 750 rpm at idle.


Yes, possibly to due timing issues, or perhaps your valves need adjusting.

A compression test may give you a better idea of the condition of the valves and rings. If the compression is low and does not improve with a squirt of oil to help seal the rings, you may have leaky valves. A leak down test would be your best bet to test the condition of the valves.

 

I have been looking at 4crawlers page a little bit closer and I may not have the TPS adjusted exactly where it needs to be. So maybe the TPS isn't sticking anymore, but its just a little out of adjustment, not allowing me to disable the computer, making me unable to set the timing, which is possibly the cause of my top end noise and idle problem. That would be an all to convenient scenario. I guess I could sit here and post all night long and not fix anything, or I could get my butt out in the garage and tinker some more. As soon as the little ones go to bed, I'll be out there.

 

Well, I messed with the TPS, idle and timing and believe everything is where it should be. The TPS tests out fine. The idle was set way to high. I adjusted the idle and now I dont have the problem of dropping idle when I brake. The test connectors still have no effect on the timing so I just set it at 12 degrees BTDC and it runs pretty well. I can cruise on the highway and scoot around town alright. So I guess the truck runs good now except for the loud clatter. Late last night I came to the conclusion I must not be due to the timing. I guess it's time to start gearing up for pulling the head. I am going to inspect the rocker assembley closley before I take anything apart to make sure that is not the cause. I have been looking at complete heads on Ebay and I can get a NEW one with everything including cam for like $300 shipped. I just cant afford any more than that. Where should I get my gaskets. Are the Ebay gasket sets OK? I am also thinking of pulling my head and taking it to a machine shop. How much do there services usually run? The only downside to that would be down time. So what could be wrong with the head? Sticking valve? Thats what I am leaning towards. It doesn't have lifters right? So I don't really know what could be causing the noise other than a bad valve. The valves have been adjusted correctly and this noise is way to loud for valve chatter anyways. I'll probably pull my head next weekend. Wish me luck. Any suggestions or links I should check out? Oh yeah, does it matter if the new head has pear shaped exhaust ports?

 

^^ yes, the head must have the pear-shaped ports. If it didn't, it'd be a pre-84 and prolly wouldn't even work.

 

First off, sorry for this rediculous thread. I wish to end it soon.

Timing and TPS issues are all figured out it think.

I finally pulled the head today. The intake gave me trouble. I took pics but there probably not even worth posting because my camera sucks. Anyways, the #2 piston had built up crud on top and the valves for that cylinder had considerable buildup. Looked like carbon, maybe oil leaking in? I dunno. All other pistons and valves look fine. Finances have been very tight lately so I definitly have to go with "el cheapo" fix. I really dont know anything about working on valves. Should I get a rebuilt head for like 250 and drop it on or is there a way of fixing the individual valves myself for cheaper?

Also, when I put it back together, it seems like its going to be really hard to get the cam gear and chain on the cam. Any hints?