maistroyoda

maistroyoda

maistroyoda

maistroyoda

maistroyoda

3rd pic shows the electric choke connected to the stock wiring. Two extra wires seen are not used. They're connected to a greean stock connector located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. 4th pic shows the red electric chock, with the distributor vacuum line located right below it, and the brake booster vacuum located to the southwest of those two which goes from the manifold to the brake booster. I believe this was one of the ones in question for you. 5th and 6th pic show this brake booster vacuum line in better detail. Hope this helps.

matthew5olson

This was a big help I appreciate it. It looks like I had everything pretty much correct. I started it and let it run a bit (no exhaust) I think all the carb parts are sort of bound up from not being used.The throttle gets stuck wide open. I fiddled with it while it was running a bit and got it to idle good and I could rev it back up again. I have a rebuild kit I'm gonna have to use. I guess I'll take everything apart and soak it in gasoline overnight to try and free it all up.

maistroyoda

Sometimes the throttle sticks if the throttle shaft nut is on too tight. Loosen it up some and that might do it. Mine was stuck all the way in when I first installed the new carb and pressed the gas pedal. So I just loosened it a little at a time until it was just right. Just be sure to put the lock tak on this nut or else it will get loose and come off.

matthew5olson

any chance you got a pic of your throttle shaft nut. My throttle cable was for a fuel injection intake so I'm not sure if I can make it work. If I could see a carbed one that might give me a better idea of what to do.

maistroyoda

I'm having my truck painted right now so I can't get a pic. The throttle shaft nut is located on the rear of the weber carb. It holds in place a C bracket which is used to connect to your factory throttle. The throttle shaft nut does not go on tight at all as it needs to be somewhat loose to easily turn the throttle. It holds in place with a locking washer.

golddog111

the charcoal canasters just catch all the feul thats not burned up, im plannin on takin mine out too but im gonna put in the msd 6 offroad spark box and the msd blaster ss coil, this should burn off 100% of the feul, give you more hp and is more economcly friendly. BTW THIS IS MY FIRST POST, love this site (still new to this, woops) lol

OldTuba

Arnt those supposed to be reversed?

warmonger88

I know this post is wicked old, but I'm having some issues with my carb right now and was hoping someone here might be able to help. I'm working eliminating my vacuum lines because I have a weber, but I didn't put it on though. I have the rear charcoal canister on still and I want to eliminate it. My question is how do I do that since the fuel return line (I think) still runs through the canister. Should I eliminate it and how do I go about that. Do I need a fuel pressure regulator when I eliminate it? Also, I read this entire thread and was wondering since it was shown attached to both, Which vacuum port on the distributor should the carb be hooked to, closest to the engine or farthest from engine? Thanks guys!

live4soccer7

I believe the furthest one out on the dist. goes to the carb and the other goes to a port on the intake. It has been a while, but I'm pretty sure that's how it goes. Right now, I do not have the charcoal canister and I'm also pretty certain the the directions (when installing the weber) say to plug the return as well. I have a fuel pressure reg in mine to drop the pressure just a little. Tons of people don't, but then again the install manual states it MUST be at about 3.0-3.5psi in order for the carb to work optimally. Our pressure systems are fairly low by default anyway though. I think around 5 or so.

Please correct me anyone if I'm off my rocker on any of these responses. That should get you a good start though. If it still isn't working after making adjustments, make sure all the linkages are clean working properly and then you can also take the top off and check to make sure the jets are all clean. Past that, I can't really help you much with the carb.

warmonger88

I appreciate your help. I've never worked on a carb before, and just rebuilt this weber a few months ago when I bought the truck. I set everything to redlines base settings also. I want to start from square one and do it right. I have the bed off right now too, so I have easy access to the fuel lines. I'll try and attach a few photos to show where I'm at.

warmonger88

Anyone????

84longbed

Hey live4soccer what did you ever do with the 2 vacuum switches on the passenger side fenderwell that you were asking about. Im in the process of a complete rebuild and carb install is coming up and im cleaning up all the unnecessary stuff. Im unsure of what to do with the switch with the electrical plug behind it and the vacuum switch beside it. At one point i was thinking the switch with the electrical plug was for the A/C but now im on the fence.

arctic_hawk907

That canister under your batt is called a charcoal canister. i forget exactly what it does....lets fuel fumes escape from somewhere on your engine. BUT with you weber you wont need that one and you can take it out. its get totally bypassed. I bought a yota with a weber and my charcoal canister under the batt wasnt hooked up and was plugged. i took it out and now i can stick my head up in there better. About your carb questions, i cant really help you, carberators are a new thing to me. grew up with diesels

arctic_hawk907

whoops wrong thread i posted on...my bad