Need help diagnosing siezed trans/clutch
#1
Need help diagnosing siezed trans/clutch
Hello, so i need help diagnosing an issue i have in my trans. When the truck is off i can push down the clutch and put it into gear. I turn the truck on and in 1st gear- its almost as if when i put the clutch down it doesnt go into nuetral-it still kinda is in drive. And its stuck in whichever gear its in otherwise ive got to really pull on it to get it out, and its nearly impossible to get it back into gear while the truck is running. I need help diagnosing whether its a bad clutch cable (probably look at the cable), a bad clutch slave cylinder, or just a bad clutch, or just a bad trans. It feels like the clutch and components are fine, its just unable to disengage to move gears. What parts would disengage the clutch on these old 1985 pickups? This is a 5 speed 1985 22re. Thank you. Really needing help because no one in detroit likes to work on old pickups especially old foreign transmissions, and i dont have the cash nor months on end to give this to someone to do for me.
#3
There is no clutch cable. Take a look to see if the clutch slave cylinder is doing its job. Engage the Emergency brake crawl under the truck and have someone push the clutch in to see if the slave cylinder is moving the clutch fork or not. I'm betting something in the hydraulics which is an easy fix. Download the FSM for more information. It's posted on this site.
#4
Sure sounds like it could be air in the clutch hydraulics, maladjustment of the pedal, misadustment of the slave cylinder, or even a cracked clutch fork. IE: The slave cylinder pushes on the clutch fork, but it bends, rather and moving as one solid piece. IMO, most likely air in the system, but I may be wrong.
It could even be something as odd as someone having lost the slave's plunger during removal/reinstallation. Stranger things have happened. Easy enough to check
Good luck!
Pat☺
It could even be something as odd as someone having lost the slave's plunger during removal/reinstallation. Stranger things have happened. Easy enough to check

Good luck!
Pat☺
#5
#6
There is no clutch cable. Take a look to see if the clutch slave cylinder is doing its job. Engage the Emergency brake crawl under the truck and have someone push the clutch in to see if the slave cylinder is moving the clutch fork or not. I'm betting something in the hydraulics which is an easy fix. Download the FSM for more information. It's posted on this site.
#7
Sure sounds like it could be air in the clutch hydraulics, maladjustment of the pedal, misadustment of the slave cylinder, or even a cracked clutch fork. IE: The slave cylinder pushes on the clutch fork, but it bends, rather and moving as one solid piece. IMO, most likely air in the system, but I may be wrong.
It could even be something as odd as someone having lost the slave's plunger during removal/reinstallation. Stranger things have happened. Easy enough to check
Good luck!
Pat☺
It could even be something as odd as someone having lost the slave's plunger during removal/reinstallation. Stranger things have happened. Easy enough to check

Good luck!
Pat☺
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#9
You do not need to "run diagnostics'. Make sure the pedal assembly is not broken where it bolts to the underside of the cowl inside the cab
"usually obvious if you push the clutch or brake pedal, and the whole assembly is twisting under the dahs, also the firewall if this has been going long enough, will start cracking). Make sure the rod off of the clutch pedal to master is not screwed all the way in, so there is adjustment to the clutch master off the firewall if the clutch/brake pedal assembly looks fine, and then if all looks fine, bench bleed the master cylinder. Search "bench bleed" easy enough to do. Afterwards, gravity bleed the clutch system after reinstalling the master.
If you are confused on how to "bench bleed" The master cylinder MUST be removed from the vehicle (reason for this is the pedal throw is not always the complete throw needed). Chuck it in a vice or another way to fixture it. Run a hose from the line fitting, back into the reservoir near the bottom . Run the plunger FULLY in and out SLOWLY until bubbles in the reservoir are no longer present. Leave the line connected and buried in the res. Install the master. quickly hook the metal line back into the master. Top off the master again. Go under the truck, and pop the bleed screw loose on the slave cylinder. I would say that letting the master lose half it's reservoir volume before closing the bleed screw is plenty safe to ensure all bubbles are out, but probably overkill. Your clutch is now blead completely.
Recently, I have seen a response about "bench bleeding a slave cylinder" I don't think it was here. But that idiot is right to "bench bleed" But he/she is talking about bleeding the wrong component.
"usually obvious if you push the clutch or brake pedal, and the whole assembly is twisting under the dahs, also the firewall if this has been going long enough, will start cracking). Make sure the rod off of the clutch pedal to master is not screwed all the way in, so there is adjustment to the clutch master off the firewall if the clutch/brake pedal assembly looks fine, and then if all looks fine, bench bleed the master cylinder. Search "bench bleed" easy enough to do. Afterwards, gravity bleed the clutch system after reinstalling the master.
If you are confused on how to "bench bleed" The master cylinder MUST be removed from the vehicle (reason for this is the pedal throw is not always the complete throw needed). Chuck it in a vice or another way to fixture it. Run a hose from the line fitting, back into the reservoir near the bottom . Run the plunger FULLY in and out SLOWLY until bubbles in the reservoir are no longer present. Leave the line connected and buried in the res. Install the master. quickly hook the metal line back into the master. Top off the master again. Go under the truck, and pop the bleed screw loose on the slave cylinder. I would say that letting the master lose half it's reservoir volume before closing the bleed screw is plenty safe to ensure all bubbles are out, but probably overkill. Your clutch is now blead completely.
Recently, I have seen a response about "bench bleeding a slave cylinder" I don't think it was here. But that idiot is right to "bench bleed" But he/she is talking about bleeding the wrong component.
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