M416 trailer with 22r?
#1
M416 trailer with 22r?
I have a 84 short bed with 31s and 4.10s with the 5spd and I am thinking about getting a M416 military trailer for a semi off road camping trailer. Do you all think the truck can take it? What about with 4.88s and the 31s?
I think the weight of the trailer is about 500lbs and the RTT is another 150lbs, plus the weight of misc camping supplies in the bed and trailer.
Also I am in CO and there are mountain passes. I know the brakes are not the best in these trucks (maybe a v6 caliper upgrade?) so any advise would help.
Thanks
I think the weight of the trailer is about 500lbs and the RTT is another 150lbs, plus the weight of misc camping supplies in the bed and trailer.
Also I am in CO and there are mountain passes. I know the brakes are not the best in these trucks (maybe a v6 caliper upgrade?) so any advise would help.
Thanks
#2
Registered User
Might take a while to gt there with the gears but should make it fine.
What part of Colorado. I'm in boulder and go to rollinsville a lot for the forest access trails.
What part of Colorado. I'm in boulder and go to rollinsville a lot for the forest access trails.
#3
Registered User
I remember how much of a dog my '90 was with 31's and 4.10's so I would definitely consider a regear. 4.88's sound like a decent decision considering you'll be trying to truck up the passes around here, especially trying to pull a loaded camping trailer.
And I second the question of where in colorado? It's nice to know where we're all from on here.
And I second the question of where in colorado? It's nice to know where we're all from on here.
Last edited by 250000_yota; 11-04-2013 at 10:51 PM.
#4
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iTrader: (1)
i'd think you'll be fine as-is, well at least enough to test it out a few times then decide if you want to cough up some more dough and change your setup.
how does your truck handle moving close to 1000lbs in the bed right now? i'd bet just fine for a handful of times a year.
i've had 4.88s/31s with my 93/22re pickup - was a great combo if you are hauling stuff/towing/offroading/lots of stop and go driving on a regular basis - would probably be a great combo for you, just will cost you a nice chunk of change (and then "while in there" do you "need" locker upgrades?). might even be better since you have a 22r, which I've been told has slightly more grunt due to carburated. if you do lots of hwy, then not so much due to higher RPMs at cruising speeds (and odo/speedo is off).
brake upgrade is ALWAYS a good idea especially if planning to tow/haul loads or put bigger tires on your rig - being able to stop that extra weight safely is a smart upgrade, especially so when you get to 33"+ tires.
how does your truck handle moving close to 1000lbs in the bed right now? i'd bet just fine for a handful of times a year.
i've had 4.88s/31s with my 93/22re pickup - was a great combo if you are hauling stuff/towing/offroading/lots of stop and go driving on a regular basis - would probably be a great combo for you, just will cost you a nice chunk of change (and then "while in there" do you "need" locker upgrades?). might even be better since you have a 22r, which I've been told has slightly more grunt due to carburated. if you do lots of hwy, then not so much due to higher RPMs at cruising speeds (and odo/speedo is off).
brake upgrade is ALWAYS a good idea especially if planning to tow/haul loads or put bigger tires on your rig - being able to stop that extra weight safely is a smart upgrade, especially so when you get to 33"+ tires.
#5
Registered User
Hi CO folks! One more here.
I would try it out first before you commit to any modifications. It depends a lot on what your expectations are but it might do just fine for you.
With the '85 22RE with 31s and 4.10s, I used to take a 300lb tiny tent trailer around the mountains and on trails with me. I could barely tell it was there. Sure, I'd get into 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd on the passes but I'm used to that. It wasn't all that much different with or without the trailer. I couldn't really tell a difference with braking either.
On the flats, I've towed the family boat (2200 lbs). I could definitely feel that, and I wouldn't want to take it into the mountains, but I never did any mods and it didn't have much trouble stopping it (no brakes on that trailer).
I was able to get some better brake performance by adjusting the LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) linkage in the back so that that the back brakes do more of the work. You want to test carefully to make sure the back brakes are doing TOO much--you don't want the back wheels locking up before the front, but I've found that the back brakes usually aren't helping out enough.
With that light a trailer, and even with some cargo in the truck, I think you'll be fine without changing anything. I don't find the need to use the brakes much on the mountain passes...just gear down some, keep the speed moderate and leave plenty of following distance.
One thing I did find to help on the trails is a lower low-range in the transfer case. It takes a bit of torque to keep three axles rolling over the rocks. With the 4:1 gearset in the transfer case, I'm able to leave the clutch out and use a lot less throttle on the trail.
I would try it out first before you commit to any modifications. It depends a lot on what your expectations are but it might do just fine for you.
With the '85 22RE with 31s and 4.10s, I used to take a 300lb tiny tent trailer around the mountains and on trails with me. I could barely tell it was there. Sure, I'd get into 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd on the passes but I'm used to that. It wasn't all that much different with or without the trailer. I couldn't really tell a difference with braking either.
On the flats, I've towed the family boat (2200 lbs). I could definitely feel that, and I wouldn't want to take it into the mountains, but I never did any mods and it didn't have much trouble stopping it (no brakes on that trailer).
I was able to get some better brake performance by adjusting the LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve) linkage in the back so that that the back brakes do more of the work. You want to test carefully to make sure the back brakes are doing TOO much--you don't want the back wheels locking up before the front, but I've found that the back brakes usually aren't helping out enough.
With that light a trailer, and even with some cargo in the truck, I think you'll be fine without changing anything. I don't find the need to use the brakes much on the mountain passes...just gear down some, keep the speed moderate and leave plenty of following distance.
One thing I did find to help on the trails is a lower low-range in the transfer case. It takes a bit of torque to keep three axles rolling over the rocks. With the 4:1 gearset in the transfer case, I'm able to leave the clutch out and use a lot less throttle on the trail.
Last edited by YoungFeller; 11-05-2013 at 12:33 PM.
#6
it's a worthwhile upgrade with or without the trailer.
#7
Hey thanks for all the advise. I am in Littleton. Just picked up the toyota in March so I have not had a chance to do much with it yet. Working on turning it into a camping/BOV. Plans are to regear with Marlin Crawler thirds with ARBs or Zip lockers and 4.56s or 4.88s (with trailer) and 4:1 tcase. Then a winch bumper and winch. Just finished fabbing the rear swing out carrier.
Will probably go ahead and get started on the trailer build and see how she does with the 4.10s and go from there. I have no problem going slow.
Thanks
Mike
Will probably go ahead and get started on the trailer build and see how she does with the 4.10s and go from there. I have no problem going slow.
Thanks
Mike
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#8
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my dad re geared his 82 from 4.11s to 4.56s and runs 31s and he loves it he can pull hills and accelerate easier its great mix for city and hwy.
cant see much difference with 4.88s other than better for towing
cant see much difference with 4.88s other than better for towing
#11
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#13
regardless of diameter, you want the booster with the step in it... I got mine off of a t100... remove the spacer plate under your current booster, if you have one, before installing the new booster... more info:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/
#14
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im running the v6 valipers and landcruncher rotors with a 15/16' mast cyl on my 82. the cutoff for the dual diaphragm booster is 83 iirc. the steering shaft has a u-joint right at the firewall that keeps the bigger booster from fitting. i figured that out as i was trying to fit mine with one. lol
maybe a steering shaft swap? id like to find out if its doable.
maybe a steering shaft swap? id like to find out if its doable.
#15
I think that you can fit the smaller diameter dual booster on the early trucks? mine came off of an early '90's 2wd pickup.
I've run all three boosters; big diameter no step, small diameter stepped, and big diameter stepped... the latter worked best for a 1" mc, but i'm guessing that the small diameter stepped booster should be fine for the 15/16" mc??
I have seen posts on pirate4x4 and such, where people have done things like dimple the large diameter booster, so it fits the steering shaft, fwiw
I've run all three boosters; big diameter no step, small diameter stepped, and big diameter stepped... the latter worked best for a 1" mc, but i'm guessing that the small diameter stepped booster should be fine for the 15/16" mc??
I have seen posts on pirate4x4 and such, where people have done things like dimple the large diameter booster, so it fits the steering shaft, fwiw
#16
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Southern Colorado here, Florence/Canon City area! Not alot of CO Yotas on here, i had my 86 loaded down with 100 12x12 patio stones and 400 pounds of sand(50lb bags) and it dragged some. Mine has over 210,xxx on it. But it still got me home. not sure what that means for total weight, i know I was sagging, not at full speed, got the finger a few times from old ladys haha but the yota held true and worked like a mule lol
#17
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(Also: My stock Tundra is running 32/11.50's with stock 4.10's )
#18
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I have 31/10.50's and 4.10's on my '85 22RE and I don't really feel that its that much worse than when I was running 29/9.50's. I think brakes would be the big issue when towing with these trucks, gears can come later if he decides he can't stand driving it with stock gears and his current tires.
(Also: My stock Tundra is running 32/11.50's with stock 4.10's )
(Also: My stock Tundra is running 32/11.50's with stock 4.10's )
I'm just saying I noticed a decent difference in my butt dyno when I swapped my 235/75R15's for the 31's. I could really feel it when going back and forth to the four corners for college.
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