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That looks like parts of the timing chain guides. Did he replace the old ones when he replaced the timing chain the first time? They make metal guides that is what most people upgrade to when they replace the timing chain. It probably had plastic ones originally that have broken and fallen into the oilpan over a period of time.
he got a new timing chain and it came with plastic guides so I'm guessing in time, he will have to open it up and see if they have worn down, broke or need replacing. Can't afford the metal ones yet but maybe down the road when we can afford it. Good thought tho.....thanx
UPDATE: It IS possible for one person to remove and install the block!!! All you need is some chain, some ratcheting straps, a 4X4 and faith in God!!
We are seeing a tiny light at the end of the tunnel. The block is in!! Had to replace one motor mount, pilot bearing and just need minor items to complete. For now tho, it's getting the motor mounts bolted down, the transmission bolted to the block and we only ran into one problem there. The old bolts were too long. We thought we were at a standstill on a Sunday but found that the exhaust bolts were the right size and used them. Guess the bolt holes weren't drilled as deeply as on the old block. So a big sigh of relief as we watched the block get bolted down, bolts torqued in order according to the book and motor mounts are safely keeping the block in one place. Will keep you posted on the next step............hope you all can see that tiny light, too!!! WHEW!!!
I wasn't able to get pictures because hubby wrapped "his baby" in a blanket because we were expecting rain. The transmission is bolted on, the timing chain and cover w/gasket is on, the head is on, the starter and fuel filter are on. The timing chain cover was very hard to get on because the oil pan gasket was thicker than the compressed old one that was on it and eventually we just had to cut away the part of the gasket that went under the timing chain unit so it could slide over the gear like thingy that sticks out at the lower end. Slowly we are watching it all come back together and look like a truck again!! LOLOL Wish all you guys were here, especially when we turn the key. You all were such a big help to us and we couldn't have done any of this without each of you giving us your help. I'll get the pictures as soon as I can.
Toyota 1985 motor VS alternator bracket VS motor mount!!
HELP!!! The bracket for the alternator wont match up!! When it's mounted on the engine, it pushes up on the bracket. Unbolt from the engine and bolt to motor mount first and then it doesn't match the bolt holes on engine. Here is a picture that shows about a 1/4-1/2 gap. Any ideas, please??
Rotate the engine a degree or two. Does that on any engine install. It gets a little cattywampus going in. Wrecking bars work great for getting the alignment right enough to get those bolts in.
UPDATE: He matched the motor mount to the old one and it seems the holes are off by barely 1/2 inch so he is going to make them tap them to make them oval and adjustable so he can move them up and down, tightening the bolt when they are in the right position. He is having a problem with the clutch. When you press on the clutch peddle, it goes to the floor with no tension. When he attached the transmission bell housing to the engine, is there something he missed? What would make the clutch not work?
I apologize in advance that I have no idea how to fix your truck, but I would like to commend you for possibly being the most patient wife in all of history!! My wife wouldnt assist with an oil change much less a head swap lol.
There are only four bolts in the front. Loosen two on one side. Insert wrecking bar and lever engine around until the two on the other go in. The two in the back don't matter.
The bottom picture is the coolant temperature sensor housing, its missing. The upper picture is the EGR "log" port to the back of the head where it crosses over to the intake side. Block that at the back of the head.
A big THANK YOU to Skypilot!! The red (orange) RV stuff worked and sealed the leak so NO MORE ANTIFREEZE LEAKING OUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD!! YEAH!! He had let it sit for several days until his day off and today he poured antifreeze in and no leaks!! Now to figure out the clutch. It is suppose to be somewhat stiff when you press on it but instead it is just going straight to the floor with no resistance. He also got the block-off plates and will be putting them on the backside of the head. One is oval and the other is triangular in shape. But, we are seeing a light at the end of this extremely looooong tunnel!! Will be sooooo happy when it is fixed. Ok, will let you know as we finish up.................
Is it a hydraulic clutch? If so, you need to fill the clutch Master Cylinder with brake fluid and then bleed the air out of the system by pumping the clutch pedal to build up pressure and crack the bleeder on the slave cylinder loose to let the air out. Repeat these steps several times untill all the air is out of the system. Be sure to close the bleeder valve before letting the clutch pedal up each time.
If you can post a picture of the driver's side of the firewall I should be able to see if there is a clutch master cylinder on the truck. If you are standing at the front of the truck looking toward the rear of the truck, the clutch M/C will be just to the right of the brake M/C.
Headed down to get some petrol and another gallon of antifreeze and see if AZ has a radiator petcock. Then back to the drawing board on the clutch.....
Last edited by coloradolady; Sep 9, 2015 at 02:47 PM.
Only found one little drip and another little drip out of the radiator petcock and no resistance to clutch peddle. Otherwise it is singing the most beautiful tune. I recorded it so if I can figure out how to load it to my computer, I'll share with y'all. So don't close up this thread just yet. I'll be back.........
Jul 25, 2015 | 01:25 PM
HELP!!! The bracket for the alternator wont match up!! When it's mounted on the engine, it pushes up on the bracket. Unbolt from the engine and bolt to motor mount first and then it doesn't match the bolt holes on engine. Here is a picture that shows about a 1/4-1/2 gap. Any ideas, please??
We see the light!! We see the light!!
