I didn't see a thread with this title so thought I'd start one since there are ladies out there who are trying to help their guys get help from the professionals on here!! Us ladies also have a different way to describe what's under the bonnet so be aware!! LOL My 'guy' (husband) needs the rubber end part to a big hard plastic tube-like thing that goes from the Air Flow Meter to the Throttle Body. (His words, not mine!) It's a long black PVC type tube that measures 2-3/4" diameter on the inside and 3-1/2" in diameter on the inside. The section is a black hard rubber with an accordion like 90* bend and is held in place with silver clamps that are screwed to tighten. The section measure approx 9" but because it bends, it's hard to measure. Does anyone know what this is called and where I would find the rubber end? I checked under the vendor section and it says there are none in our area. I'd appreciate all help and advice. TYIA

 

Intake tube.



http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FZCIaQodKgIAiw

 

That's the right part but when I checked your link, the one shown is too short. Do you have any other links? I have a part number but when I entered it on your link it said there is no such part number. The part number off the rubber accordion like thingy is 2223135010. YAY!! You got the right part!! In the manual it shows the top of the engine but no number corresponding to that part.

 

Entering the part number - 222313135010 into an ebay search finds several

genuine Toyota factory parts. They say fits '84-'88 models.

 

I did a Bing search and found one!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU SNOBDDS!!!! Great job!!

 

Glad you found one. If that part is cracked, it will cause idle surging because of the unmetered air leak (post air flow meter).

 

I just hate it when the plenum boot cracks on the bottom side and you can see the crack until you take it off, arghhhhh...

 

I think my husband is going to have a bon fire to celebrate the destruction of his Toy Pickup!! He is at the end of his rope. Everyone has been a big help but the stupid truck just won't start. He did the thing with the computer (take the fuse thingy out and wait 15 seconds...he actually waited over an hour), he has used his meter to check the igniter and coil, he has intermittent spark to the plugs and the codes are just rediculous. He has replaced the ignitor, the coil, the timing chain the timing chain cover, the throttle position sensor, the battery and it won't start. The computer spits out codes randomly. One time when he removes the fuse and replaces it, a code comes out saying the ignitor is bad. Take out the fuse againe and it comes back that the computer is bad. As for the random spark to the plugs. He has replaced the computer fuse (If I remember right he called it an EFI fuse???) Anyway, he replaced it and finally got spark and the codes showed everything working. He cleaned up his tools, tried to start it and nothing. He checked the spark again and there was none. This is just beyond crazy. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have printed out charts and diagrams on how to check everything with a meter, and everything falls inbetween the correct numbers, everything is perfect!! BUT........he is ready to torch it!! Anything thoughts or suggestions will be DEEPLY appreciated!!

 

Husband has no words. He is off work today and has to go back tomorrow and still the truck won't start. Are there other forums or places to go for help? Thank you to those who have shared their ideas.

 

More diagnosing & less wasting money

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf

Is there spark? Compression? Fuel?

Telling us what you've replaced doesn't really tell us anything.

 

Well this pretty much the best place. You can try Iatn network but you have to subscribe or contribute time / money to get access.

I was in CO in January, but I'm not planning to go there again for a while. Otherwise I might stop in and help. A fresh set of eyes, can often "see" what you are missing.

Now on a lark & leap of faith. I had this happen with a 3vze. The start injector was not working electrically, so no gas got into the engine for it to start. Drove me nuts, until I got the crazy thought to "steal it". So when you steal a car you "hot wire it" . So I hot wired the start injector to a push button switch inside. Push button and fuel goes into manifold. Well guess what, it worked, it started and ran. I never fixed the wiring since the switch did what was needed.

So perhaps he can just touch a positive lead to that injector, with the other lead grounded. And blow some gas into the engine with the key in "start" position to run the pump. Just short bursts, time limit 2 seconds so it don't burn up.

 

I had already printed out the diagrams and he tested all of those things. As I said, the spark to the plugs comes and goes at will. He had no spark in the beginning but when he removed the EFI fuse and then waited 1/2 hour and installed it again, he got spark. He thought he was all set and picked up his tools and went to turn the key and nothing. He checked the spark again and there was none. It's doing it on it's own!!!
Compression, yes. It has compression. Has not removed the head or touched anything inside where the pistons, rings etc. are.
Yes, it has fuel and if he could get it to start he could take the fuel line off to make sure it's squirting fuel. It doesn't have a carburetor so he can't physically see fuel in the bowl. It's fuel injected. He says he does smell gas but we know what he is smelling is probably gas fumes.
As my original post states, this all started when he changed the timing chain and cover. It ran perfectly prior to that.
All wires are grounded, all are attached, all are not cracked. It just won't turn over!
Thank you so much for the diagrams and charts. Everything has been checked according to the charts and diagrams.

 

Ok; Another hunch. There is a battery lead to the fuse box under the hood left hand side. Its probably broken or corroded to near death. There are two screws holding this wire into the fuse block when you take it apart (just clips) You can make two 12 ga wires to replace the one 8 ga wire with a wire crimp kit. The battery acid corrodes the one end at the terminal, and flexing over time breaks it in the middle. The wire is too big to patch, just make a new one using two wires and a marine battery terminal. Now this fix may require a new starter cable, but you can be creative here.


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-wire-208951/

 

So it ran fine before he did timing chain ? Did he put timing chain in right. Not that its off a couple teeth. So it turns over but has no spark or doesn't turn over at all. He has power to ign and lights and starter ? Did he ck the grounds and and ck for corrosion on computer and plugs ? Try a new coil wire and plug wires. They can look good but be cracked or corroded. Ign wires from column all look good, not corroded ? Not an expert, just throwing stuff out there. Good luck

 

OK....everything checks out (ran all diagnostic tests) computer not spitting out any codes, says everything is right BUT.............where do I find a wiring diagram? Does anyone know what two wires go to that come out (if you are facing the engine, they are on the left, under the head) and are white w/light blue stripe and other one is white w/red stripe. They have no ends on them and they seem to be wrapped about 1-1/2 inches from their ends.

I forgot to add....do the spark plug wires have to be for this specific vehicle or are they for any vehicle?

 

I think those are engine ground wires that go to the intake plenum. Without proper grounds it will not run. Is the ground wire from the back of the cylinder to the chassis intact? Thats an important one. Another goes from the stud on the lower intake manifold to the top plenum assembly w/ the TB Thats important too.

 

also check the ground cable from the head to the firewall...sometimes that is left off accidentally....that is what grounds the head to the chassis ground...without that cable the spark plugs wont fire..


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/brutis/WIRES.jpg

 

Well, husband is ready to crush the truck. He installed a new rubber thing over the end of the air tube as suggested earlier and he has checked all fuses. Fuses are all good, he has used a meter and everything is on the correct numbers, the engine is getting fuel, he has spark to the plugs, he has tested ignitor, distributor, battery is fully charged, everything is perfect but it won't turn over. HELP!!!!

 

Have you checked your valve cam timing? could be a bad timing chain. the distributor is geared to the valve cam, so, if your valve timing is off, so distributor will not spark correctly and it won't start. If your valve timing is good then be sure to check the transducer spacing inside the distributor. If the distributor rotor shaft is loose then it can affect your spark too.

There are some great pix about timing chains on this blog.

 

hey colorado lady, if you havent fixed it yet I can come by and help look at it toward the end of this week or weekend. Ive been through more 22re's than i care to count and can help you nail down the problem.

What part of town are you in?