You will love the 4.7 gears. You are running 4.30's now, right? What's the future gearset going to be?

I have spent so much time under my truck and around it for the past two weeks that I am almost...almost...sick of it. I finally got everything buttoned up, brakes up front, new SS brake lines, MC and booster from a 94 V6 4runner, spacers, newer gearbox, and when I went to start it..nothing except the click click click of the starter trying to start. I grabbed a spare from the parts truck and put it in, and my brakes don't have the right feel to them. I tried bleeding them the old fashioned way, and then with a vaccuum gun, but I think I still have air in the lines.
Since I didn't bench bleed the MC or Booster, I ran through a bottle and a half of brake fluid, but I still don't trust myself so I am going to have a shop flush the system out.
I still have the stock LSPV but with the lift adjustment bracket. When I was bleeding that last, I had to keep going and going long after the last air bubbles went by just to get the dirt to stop. The cap on the bleeder was corroded so I am thinking that its been awhile.
I think I need to copy you and either bypass it or get a MPV.

 

Yeah, 4.30 gears right now. I will probably stick with them for another year or so. It drives down the road just fine with them, though 5th gear isn't very useful at the moment. Still leaning towards 4.88's down the road though.

Bypass the LSPV, the general opinion I read on them was they are useless with 33" or larger tires. The LSPV was giving me pedal problems, since I coulnd't crack the bleeder on it loose. I also just ordered some speed bleeders from Summit racing, which I will be installing once I do my rear disc conversion.

Also ordered up a lunchbox style locker for the rear, giving a Yukon Spartan locker a shot. From what I read up on them over at Pirate, sounds like a strong and easy to install locker. I also called up Bobby Longfield and ordered a set of 30 spline longs with long splines for the e-locker. The one weak point on the e-lockers I found was the splines on our axle shafts do not fully engage on the locker side. I saw that Longfield made a set of axles to solve this problem, that will make me feel much better about the install.

 

I was reading on pirate, and many seemed to think that without it, you might lock up the rears before the fronts on the road.
I found a leak on the new caliper up front. It was from the line going into the caliper and I think I just needed to tighten it more. Since I had a leak, do I have to rebleed the lines?

 

You need something to revert the proper proportional pressure to the front brakes which do most of your braking anyway, whatever type of proportioning valve you use, lspv or mpv. Without such the rear brakes will lock up first every time and then forgetabout steering or control.

Brake system is a closed system...if fluid is leaking out, air can be leaking in. Rebleed. Takes 10 minutes tops.

 

my rear drums are out of adjustment, probably a good thing then without the valve. But I was reading that people with stock rear drums and larger tires, did not have a need for the LSPV. Maybe I didn't read enough threads on it

I did order up a manual prop valve this weekend, I will install it once I do the rear disc brake swap and upgrade the MC. I still have a few more parts I need to gather up before I can do the swap.

 

Pulled my spare tcase apart, been cleaning parts. I still need to pull the bearing off the main shaft so I can swap in the new gear, then press the bearing back on.

 

Ordered up a few more parts recently...

Longfield 30 spline axles
Spartan locker (lock right style made by USA gear)
Some brake hardware for the rear disk brake conversion
E-locker harness and mounting hardware
Iron Pig spare tire spindle

Talked to a friend in our club about machining some stuff for me. Going to stop by his shop this weekend and have him machine my transfercase box to clear the 4.7 gear. Also bringing my front rotors, to have them machined to fit over the rear axle. And I will press off tcase mainshaft bearing, so I can swap that gear over as well.

My parts pile continues to grow... Need some warmer weather, this single digit stuff is killing me! But it will be worth it once everything is installed

 

Slowly moving along, been taking my time installing the 4.7 gears. only took 2 weeks to get this far

Had the case machined to fit the 4.7 gears.



Checked the shifter fork clearance, both clear with room to spare



Low range side is done



4wd side almost finished



And done



And finished, just waiting on my Marlin triple drilled flanges. Also ordering up a twin stick from DaveZ as soon as they are in stock again.

 

Finally getting around to installing the rear disc brakes and locker this weekend. I tore the rear axle down last night. Pulled the diff and tore it down this morning. Here is what the cross pin looks like, not to good.... Thankfully the Spartan lockers come with a new cross pin.

 

Got the rear disc brakes, GM master cylinder, manual prop valve, and Spartan locker all installed this weekend Also installed new seals and wheel bearings while I was at it.

Getting the rear bearings off was not a easy task, took a lot of force and some heat as well. Now before I did any of this, I tore down my old 85 axle and mocked everything up. I wanted to see how bad this job was going to be. The 85 axles came apart with very little effort, it raised my confidence on doing this project quite a bit. But the 88 axle didn't go nearly as smooth. And after getting both axles torn down, the splines on the ends were mushroomed out a bit I had to hand file the ends back into shape, which took a few hours. I used the locker side gears to check the splines as I filed.

Once the axle shafts were taken care of, I moved onto the diff. Pulled it out and dropped it on the dolly to work on it. Marked the bearing caps and pulled everything apart. I was a little nervous about taking the ring gear off, but I had faith in my self after a beer Everything with the locker went really smooth, and the diff went together again without any problems. I used 4x4wire as a reference for torque numbers and tips. And I heated the ring gear up with a mapp gas torch, slowly going around in a circle with the flame.

Once the locker was in, I put the brake rotors on the axle shafts and pressed in the studs. Then I installed the new seals, and pressed the bearings on. Figuring out how to get the bearings pressed on with the small shop press was interesting, but I managed to figure out a method that worked pretty well.

All down hill from here now. slipped in the axle shafts and bolted them down. Then installed the brackets for the calipers, and bolt the calipers on. Install the pads, pins, and clips. Bench bleed the new master, and swapped that in. Hooked up the line adapters and prop valve, then bleed the brakes.

And now for some pictures

 

what did your gm master cylinder come out of? also what prop valve did you use?

 

The master cylinder is out of a 1980 G20 suburban, at least thats what I told the parts guy They used the same master for several years, part number I was given when I bought the brackets was Cardone - Master Cylinder Part Number: 10-1534

The prop valve is just the basic Summit racing manual proportioning valve.

 

Watch out for them po's!!! If you have all blacked out window and lights appently that makes the 4runner a high drug profile vehicle and that gives cause to search. (I call a bullsh** search) Damn school zones! But yea any bling brings out the popo.

 

Whats that have to do with my truck?

I don't have tinted windows, or extra lights. My truck doesn't have any bling, its just built up a bit.

 

hey iam getting ready to do my rear brakes were did you get the brakets for the front calipers to bolt to?

 

I followed this guide http://www.muchadoproductions.com/fo...ead.php?t=1832

And contacted Techtafab, he is on that board and Pirate. I also got his GM master cylinder adapter with the caliper brackets.

 

thank you very much i think i read that one time and never saved it. let me know how it brakes after your done.also let me know how you like that locker. iam thinking about going with an aussie but usa sounds better to me if its made good.

p.s keep up the good work its looking good

 

The brakes are just pure awesome! The pedal is a little stiff, but a larger brake booster will fix that. I wouldn't do it any other way if I had to do it over again

The locker is also working very well, I am very impressed with it so far. I had a lockright in my 89 pickup and I could feel it was there, and hear it from day one. The spartan however, I can't even tell its there. But I can tell the extra traction is there in the snow And I believe it is the only locker of that style for the Toyotas that comes with a new cross pin, which you can see I needed.

 

I started to work on my window wiring, a few weeks ago my drivers side window controls quit working. I used a computer connection as a quick disconnect for the wiring. Well without the plastic splash shields up front, the wiring took a heavy hit of salt and water. Didn't take long to eat away the connections.

So my solution is to rip out all the factory window wiring. Move the switches into the cab, under the radio. Then I will only need to run 2 wires to each door for the windows, I might keep the pointless door lights as well. But either way I will have far less wiring to deal with, and heavier gauge as well.

So I contacted 12volt guy for 3 of his rear window kits :eek: I cutout a switch panel from a sheet of Delrin I had last night, and its a little flexy. Going to have to do this one out of aluminum. The 3 switches on the left are for the windows. Next is the front E-locker switch and light. Then I decided to add in a 12volt plugin with a power switch, so I can have a hot power outlet without the key.

Here is my crappy cell phone picture of it in the truck.



Now I need to figure out where I am going to run the 6 relays and all the wiring.

 

I managed to wire up the drivers side and rear window yesterday. I ran out of motivation to hook up the passenger door, going to finish it up today. Bypassing the factory switches and running relays made a huge difference in window performance. The drivers side window is much faster.

And now I only have to deal with 2 wires going into each door, I used some 2 wire trailer plugs for the connections.