so i went a took an emissions test about a week ago and i passed everything except the high speed (2500rpm) CO amount. the legal limit is 1.20 and i was at 2.20. i then gave the truck a simple tune-up consisting of new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, and fuel filter. the air filter was remarkably clean, so i left it alone. truck runs much better after the tune up, by the way! oh i also forgot to mension i added 1/3 can of seafoam to the gas tank, 1/3 can into the motor itself, and 1/3 can directly into the carb. when i started it up TONS of white smoke blew out the back for like 5 mins.

fastforward to yesturday, i took the truck over to the city emissions place where i can get a free re-test. i ran the truck on the freeway WOT haulin ass the whole way over there to warm up the cat. when i get there we tested and to my disbelief i failed AGAIN! WTF?! so anyways, i failed the same thing high speed CO. except this time (and this bugs the crap out of me!) i was at 1.27! i was only .07 over the legal limit!!! BOOOO!!

luckily the guy gave me a 1 time extention so i can get the truck registered (i've been driving around for like 3 mo's with a expired temp tag...yea i know, flame on). the only thing is i have to go back within 90 days and pass the test. so here's where i'm standing now wondering what else i can do to pass the emissions test.

i live in new mexico and its not as strict as california, i just need to get that CO down below 1.20 and i'm at 1.27. the truck is a '84 22R 4x4. its got 156k miles on it. the timing chain needs to be replaced because its making some noise (i plan on doin that in the near future). i called this place called top-end performance out in california because i've been looking at buying a 34DGEC carb for some extra power/torque and better mpg. i was asking the guy if it would help pass emissions and he said i could tune it to pass, but it'll run like crap...then i could tune it to run better later. he also mensioned that if the CO is high that burning oil can cause that. i don't think i have leaking valve guide seals or anything, the truck doesn't smoke any...

well, i need some help. i'm not sure what else to do to pass the test. so what can i do???

thanks for the help, casey.

 

There are some real experts around on interpreting emmissions results. His handle was "nightxxxx". Hopefully he'll see this, are you could do some searching on something like emmissions CO etc. and find him.

Good Luck.

 

if youve got an air pump than that could not be working right and try running the premium gas through your engine with octane booster that might help well good luck

 

I used to have a rig that would pass everything but the CO as well. I would run the tank down to empty, add a gallon of gas and a gallon of ethanol, then go to the emissions place.

It smelled like a gin factory coming out the tailpipe and ran like hell, but it always passed with flying colors. After I rolled out from the test, I would hit the gas station and fill the tank to the brim with good gas, then drive it until it ran right.

Good for another two years.

 

The air pump in my 83 went south during a smog test. I basically took the guts out of it so it just pushed air all of the time instead of when the vaccum set it open. When i smog the 83 i go to Napa and get an additive thats guaranteed to help pass vehicle. Unfortunatly i can remember ther name
Have you checked the cat? The temp should be different between front section and back section. should be a noticable diff.

Not to good @ emissions, but if you need some more help i have an uncle who is pretty good and i can give him a call if you need more help.

 

hmmm, i'll have to check into the air pump. the good news is i can go back as many times as i need within the 90 days to pass. i could go everyday and try something different every time if i was crazy enough!

the ethanol thing actually sounds crazy enough to work. plus one of my last employers always had 1 or 2 55gal drums of that crap, so i know i can get it any time...

well keep the info comming guys, the more the better!! thanks!

 

This is the same problem I just experienced during the emissions test. I passed the idle CO/HC, and the loaded HC, but failed loaded CO. I went to the emissions 'lab' and spoke with the guys there. In my case the emissions equipment has been stripped off entirely, and it was the pulsed air system that's missing. In particular he noted that my high-altitude compensator is simply plugged and "you just can't do that", and that would cause the carb to run way too rich under load.

Now I can't confirm yet that his advice was 100% accurate, it's been impossible so far to round up the parts I need. For reference, my truck is an '87 4x4, originally a 22RE but it now has a 22R (year unknown), however the equipment check still has to match the 22RE, for visible emissions systems anyway.

Can anyone help me finding these parts? I've checked all the local yards and emailed a few toyota parts suppliers online to no avail. I'm not even sure what the industry standard name is (in order to buy new). It sounds like the same concept as a smog pump, but it's passive (relying on sudden vacuum to provide fresh air at the exhaust port) instead of an active 'pump'? Toyota calls the important part an "air suction valve" or "air suction reed valve" but I've been unable to find that in any parts catalog.

Tacking this request onto the end of an existing thread probably isn't the greatest idea, I'll make a new thread if I don't get any useful feedback here.

 

Did you adjust the timing? Check your vacuum advance to make sure that both chambers hold vacuum. Also check the the mechanical advance operates freely by turning the rotor on the distributor and seeing that it snaps back into place. That could make a big difference.

Make some quick checks to see that everything is working ok, like the EGR valve and check for vacuum leaks. Check the PCV valve line that goes into the intake manifold to see that it is not saturated with oil or really dirty.

You might want to change your oil, especially if the seafoam is washing it out. The seafoam could be breaking loose lots of sludge and things like that. You do not want any odd fumes going into the intake throught the crankcase ventilation system. It would be best to change your oil just before you get the smog check. Having seafoam in your gas during a smog check might also not be a good idea because anything it is washing off is going to be burned in the combustion chamber and sent out the exhaust.

How was the HCO, or hydrocarbons?

 

after you flushed the seafoam, etc out, fill up w/ 91 (or higher octane) and when its at 1/2 tank bring it in, warmed as you did before.

 

Has the carb been rebuilt? I ask that because my 84 did the same thing yours is doing. New engine. New smog components/verified proper function. New/rebuilt carb. All the fuel tricks. All of the timing tricks. Tweeked, sneeked And freaked..........no pass.

I ultimately re-checked the carb function, since I bought it rebuilt by a service. The issue turned out to be the jet..........

Jets are little brass (I think) nozzles that the fuel squirts through. If the orifice is distorted as happens over the years, the fuel cannot atomize properly since the spray pattern is affected. No fuel atomization = poor performance/economy and no passie emissions.

It's a cheap fix. Coupla bux and a few minutes. I was shocked how much more power I had and the fuel economy spiked at least 5 mpg.

Maybe worth a shot.

Google Aisan carb jet and see what happens

Edit: I found a pic

 

just to pass, do you guys recommend the 91 octane and seafoam treatment? My CO was double the limit and my HC was a bit high... Anyone tell me if there is in fact a quick fix to get the truck passed? thanks

 

No legal quick fix. You can spend a lot of time educating yourself with online info on how to interpret your test results. Might help.

Seafoam and higher octane is not going to solve a double the limit Carbon Monoxide test.

The fastest way, and often cheapest way, is to find a Toyota dealer you can trust... have them do the test and tell you what is wrong.

 

Nobody else cringed when the OP said he put 1/3 seafoam in and then started it up...

Sounds like a recipe for hydrolock..

 

Nope. You can add quarts of the stuff as the damage doesn't show up for weeks... it takes that long for a scuffed bearing to self-destruct.

 

first off, how did you use the seafoam in the carb? in other words, it takes two treatments. you must warm up the engine first, and get it to regular temps. then add in the seafoam, and once it is all in , IMMEDIATELY KILL THE ENGINE!
let sit for 10 minutes, crank up, and blow all the crap out, revving the engine along the way. Once it starts to blow clear, repeat the above treatment.
I have a 92 caprice, that last year, was right on the top edge reading for total emmissions here in texas, something like 750, or 150 , or something like that.
I did absolutely no work to my car at all, except i did the seafoam treatment
about 4 months ago. I tested again, last week, for this year, and all numbers dropped by at least half, ACROSS THE BOARD! amazing. some of the numbers
dropped bymore than half.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-truth-160614/
read the above thread on seafoam.
Also, does not your state have a 20 year waiver? In other words, if
your vehicle is 20 years old or older, can you get a state waiver for emissions?
I think here in Texas, it is either 20 or 25 years old.

 

MY HC was 1400 and the legal limit is 220. but i accidently put diesel in my gas tank yesterday. I drained the tank and filled it with gas. so there was not much diesel. Is the HC so high because of the diesel.

 

I just took my truck through DEQ. My HC was 1400 and the limit is 220. Is this caused by the diesel that got poured in my gas tank. I drained the tank and refilled it with regular. The diesel incident happened yesterday and i had to go throught the DEQ today because my trip permit was gonna expire.

 

for new mexico

"All vehicles manufactured after the year 1975 are subject to the test. Those oldies made between 1975 and 1986 need to undergo the test on an annual basis. If you own a car or truck built after 1986, then you can stick to an every-other-year cycle.

Even better, cars fresh off the assembly line (or close to it) are eligible to skip emissions tests for up to two registration periods. Thus, if you opt for the two-year registration rotation, you can get a four-year waiver. If you own a vehicle with a diesel engine, it is exempt from testing until you sell it."