Info about A/C needed!
#21
Did it hold a vacuum? If a shop did it, it has to hold a vacuum ("no leaks") before they can charge it. Shops are prohibited from recharging leaking systems.
Did the shop tell you that you need to change O-rings? And then went ahead and charged it? If the O-rings are not leaking, you do not need O-rings. (Some people will want to change to R134a compatible O-rings. Not necessary!)
"...still air is system..." - you said it was vacuumed.
"...blows cold, then mild, then warm, and back again..." - This what many R134a conversions do...
Did the shop tell you that you need to change O-rings? And then went ahead and charged it? If the O-rings are not leaking, you do not need O-rings. (Some people will want to change to R134a compatible O-rings. Not necessary!)
"...still air is system..." - you said it was vacuumed.
"...blows cold, then mild, then warm, and back again..." - This what many R134a conversions do...
#22
Those are symptoms of one of two things: Moisture in the system or a defective expansion valve. What happened to your plan to run Freeze 12? When evacuating (vaccuming) the system did you attempt to remove the hoses before charging? If you did it probably pulled a ton of air into the system. The proper procedure is: Run vaccum pump until you reach about 27" of mercury then, continue for an additional 15-20 mins (I let it run for about 45 mins!). Close valves, remove hose (yellow) from pump then hook up to refrigerant source (R134A, R12, Freeze 12.....) slightly loosen yellow hose at the guage manifold to bleed air (refrigerant will start to come out) out then tighten up. With the motor off, charge as liquid through the high side. When that can is empty, close high side valve, start vehicle turn A/C on (should be enough pressure to engage clutch) and finish charging with another can through low side. Mind you, R134A is a blend and needs to be charged as a liquid so, just barely open the valve so that it goes in as vapor and so you don't dump too much in and cause the compressor to "slug" (can't compress liquid). The Toyota A/C system (at least my truck's) takes between 1.3-1.8 lbs (20.8-28.8 ozs) of R12 but, IIRC, you need to put in 20% less R134A (16.64-23.04 ozs) so don't overcharge! Hope that helps you out unless, you already went through this, then I would say put a new expansion valve in......NAPA has them along with a complete O-ring kit (vehicle specific) Good luck!---------Hans
#23
Does the a/c rob alot of power from our 22RE motors when on?
Low end, while driving, and gas milage?
I have everything for a/c just not the actual compressor it self.
(previous owner got rid of it after the engin re-build)
Low end, while driving, and gas milage?
I have everything for a/c just not the actual compressor it self.
(previous owner got rid of it after the engin re-build)
#24
there should be a very detailed writeup for us guys with no a/c. though i have noticed that the fuses for the a/c are there, theres a spot in the heater core container for the evaporator or w/e its called, theres a spot on the side of the block for the a/c compressor, it doesnt seem like it would be too hard, since i can have the dash off within 45 minutes. whats a PITA though is the vent tubing... i still cant get it figured out all the way.. my far left and far right vents dont work, i just have a bag over each vent tube under the dash.. talk about juryriggin... i vote for a 2nd gen (hopefully 1988 is a 2nd gen, if not, a 1988) pickup/4runner a/c install writeup.
#25
I'll sell what I have if anyone is interested.
I have everything but the actual compressor and maybe a few hoses and such. (not sure what else could be missing) Shot me a PM if your interested. I can send pics of what I got. Not sure if its all good but I could pressure test the condenssor for anyone serious about it. Its all still on the truck.
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Jul 6, 2015 09:01 AM





