bangerslux

got it out now all good.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

It's not a bad idea to post up a record of your experience and tools/methods used in case someone else needs a reference or recommendations...

jeff4

I use a pick to pierce seal close to out side of seal, screw a sheet metal screw in and lever it out.

Rusto

Getting ready to change the front main seal on my 22R, as it's leaking like a sieve and I had a couple of questions. I've read that you don't have to remove the head as suggested by the FSM, which is what's prevented me from doing this job in the past, so that's nice.

1.Do you have to remove the radiator as well?

I was reading a thread about loosening the pulley bolt with a cheater bar, disconnecting the coil so the engine won't fire, and the hitting the ignition quickly. Great idea by the way, but I can't find that thread anymore, so I can't remember if the radiator was mentioned.

2. Should I go ahead and replace the oil pump o-ring while I'm in there?

I'm looking forward to getting this done, as it's the last of the leaks on my truck and I'll finally be able to move on to the topside and do some bodywork.

Thanks for the feedback, as always.

(and I will post pictures and recommendations here when I'm done)

Bingle

I just did my seal recently and didn't remove the rad. Pretty tight though and it probably would have been quicker and less frustrating if I had taken the radiator out. I would recomend removing it.

I have been fighting the front main for years. Put a new one in, no leak for a little while, start leaking again, I curse, live with it till the engine is coated with crap, repeat. So, this time I tried something I happened across and it seems to be working great. Time will tell, but I'm hopefull. Here it is:
http://www.lceperformance.com/20R-22...-p/1016115.htm

I figured, for the price, why not. Mine has a ton of miles so the harm balancer was definately worn. You just press it onto the harm bal shaft while you have it out to do the seal. (I just got it started by hand and tapped it on with a scrap piece of 2x4 and a hammer. easy)

Rusto

Thanks Bingle. I may just try that seal saver. Says you can use the OE seal, too.

I'll probably take out the radiator. I'm taking out the oil pan already to clean and remove the cork gasket before I put it back together. Might as well flush out the radiator and repaint it while I'm down there.

Rhyno

iTrader: (1)

I didnt take out the radiator and it wasnt too bad. Taking the belts off was probably the most time consuming part. The new seal i bought was thinner than the origional so i was able to position it a bit different than the origional and avoid the groove. I didnt use a seal saver. The crank bold was not as bad as some other people's experiences, but it is on there tight. I was able to get it with only a huge ratechet and all of my strength. I would suggest doing the oil pump seal as well since you are right there. Mine was pretty brittle.

Rusto

Went ahead and ordered the sleeve, in case there is a groove, and the oil pump seal. I'm going to do my best to make this a one day job.

Bingle

Shouldn't be a problem. I think I did mine in 2.5-3 hrs. Good luck.

Crtzlow

You can usually pick up a seal saver kit from the local parts store. If a new seal starts leaking after a few months that will be the way to go..done it many times. Removing the radiator does give you more room to work with. With it removed you can get a seal puller in there and not have to remove the oil pump.

Rusto

I'm well into this now. I decided that while I was in there, I might as well do a few more things. My front main seal change has now morphed into:

1. servicing the radiator
2. changing the radiator hoses,
3. changing the belt
4. replacing the oil pump gasket
5. replacing the timing chain cover gasket(s)
6. removing the cork gasket on the oil pan.
7. painting the oil pan and radiator
8. changing the valve cover gasket.
9. annnd changing the front main seal.

I might as well do it all while I'm in there, I figure. Pics and detailed process to come, once I'm done, for future newbs.

Newb tip number one: - just because you don't have to remove the head to get the timing cover off, it doesn't mean you don't have to take out the distributor, valve cover and cam drive gear to get to that one bolt that's inside the head and holding your timing cover! Going through the FSM, I saw "remove head" as one of the processes. Since I didn't need to remove the head, I skipped that step entirely. whoops. A little pounding, wiggling and cursing under my breath helped me to realize that there was still another bolt holding it in SOMEWHERE. I took a step back, thought about it, and realized the shape of the timing cover indicated that there was a bolt that was screwed in from the TOP. Lesson learned.

More to come. Everything is off, and I just have to clean the very filthy timing cover and I'll start putting 'er all back together.