84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Heater project(s)

Old Aug 26, 2017 | 01:27 PM
  #21  
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osv
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Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
So I finally got the heater cable clamps in my hands and installed on the heat (Cool - - - Warm) control cable. The lever and the inner cable now both move freely and are attached to the heater control assembly – I can see them move. The other levers and cables seem to work and operate correctly – I can hear the doors/diverters move under the dash.

But I have a problem – the heat control valve (under the hood) does not move when the heat (Cool - - - Warm) control lever is moved. It doesn’t even act like a cable is attached.

Keep in mind I’ve rarely used the heat or A/C in this truck. So my question is:
Is the heat (Cool - - - Warm) control lever supposed to operate the heat control valve (under the hood)?

a. If it does, does the cable go directly to the heat control valve (under the hood) or is there something/part in between?
did you try disconnecting the cable from the valve, and: 1)see if you can move the valve by itself, 2)see if the cable end moves in and out by itself?
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Old Aug 26, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #22  
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I know that my '87 and '88 4Runners have two cables attached to the temp control lever. When the lever is moved, one cable opens or closes the hot water valve while the other one opens or closes the air blend door at the same time.

Not sure about earlier model trucks.
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 06:28 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by osv
did you try disconnecting the cable from the valve, and: 1)see if you can move the valve by itself, 2)see if the cable end moves in and out by itself?
I should have tried that and from looking at parts diagrams I'll probably have to replace the cable anyway.


Originally Posted by millball
I know that my '87 and '88 4Runners have two cables attached to the temp control lever. When the lever is moved, one cable opens or closes the hot water valve while the other one opens or closes the air blend door at the same time.

Not sure about earlier model trucks.
I'll check that out further to verify what does what.

Thanks guys
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 06:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by osv
did you try disconnecting the cable from the valve, and: 1)see if you can move the valve by itself, 2)see if the cable end moves in and out by itself?
I disconnected it and the heater valve is stuck. When I moved the levers (tried all 3) inside the cable didn't move. The stuck valve probably broke the cable and the old (brittle) plastic clamp.
I looked up the part and it is:"CABLE SUB-ASSY, WATER VALVE CONTROL" Part Number: 55907-89116

It looks like it costs about $12 - not too bad.

I also searched here for a post, possibly by Terry, on how to R & R the cable without a lot of hassle but I couldn't find it.
I think I'm going to use the old cable to pull the new one into place.
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 06:28 PM
  #25  
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When I remove a heater control from the dash, I tie some binder twine, or tough fishing line to the far end of each cable as I disconnect them and use the line to guide the cables back exactly the way they had been run before when it goes back together..
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 06:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by millball
When I remove a heater control from the dash, I tie some binder twine, or tough fishing line to the far end of each cable as I disconnect them and use the line to guide the cables back exactly the way they had been run before when it goes back together..
I could do it that way too. I think/hope I can replace the one cable without completely removing the heater control from the dash.
I am going to upgrade to the later plastic water valve while I'm at it.

Thank you
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