We recently built the 22r on my dads 84, but we are now having frustrating timing issues. I have set the timing to 0*, then tried to start it, but the timing was too advanced. Then I move the distributor 1 tooth into the retard direction, but then it's too retarded. Tried to see if it was 180 out, it wasn't. Also tried moving the gear on the cam sprocket a couple teeth in either direction (1 tooth at a time) but still no help whatsoever. So basically it sparks too advanced, then too retarded, fine tuning doesn't help.

Anybody have some suggestions, or know what mint be the problem??

I am going to try to borrow a timing light to see where we are at tonight, but it'd be helpful if i could get this thing running sooner. Thanks in advance..

 

um how you know if it's too far advance or too far retarded when ya don't even have a timing light?

 

I know it's too advanced because it fires too early, so it shoves the piston back down before it can complete it's upward cycle to get to the power stroke.

Too retarded because it fires too late into the power stroke to keep an idle..

 

and you can tell this how? without a timing light, I don't care how good your eyes are there is no way to tell.

 

X2...unless he has X-ray vision lol, but seriously, go buy a simple timing light. I think they are like 30 bucks at Autozone...it's good to have one anyways. Did you set the initial timing up correctly? It sounds like maybe the cam and crank aren't in sync...

 

If your ignition timing wont set to 0 with a timing light check your battery to chassis/body ground.I could not get one to time once cam crank distributor everything perfect but would allways be advanced or retarded from one tooth to onother on destributor.Found bad ground at battery.The cpu can make atleast a 8 degree change.

 

Can you tell me where the computer is that controls the timing on an 84 22R ?

 

I believe the cpu does control base timing on a carb truck.Doesn't it? Vacume line are just the mechanical part of the advance curve wright?Im more familier with injected.It couldn't hurt to check ground's either way.

 

OK, at this point you probably want to start over. Set #1 piston..tdc. Take out distributor, then point the rotor to the #1 point on the distributor. Insert distributor so diaphragms in front and rotor faces about the 10 or 11 o'clock position. Insert distributor into head..at this time the rotor will naturally twist. Fit into place, and lightly tighten it down.

NOW, you need a TIMING LIGHT. Plug vacuum hoses to diaphragm on dist., maintain about 900 rpm (tach guage), set timing to 0 degrees. reattach dist vacuum to diaphragm. Idle back to 700 or so. recheck timing and it should now be about 5 degrees btdc.

If your idle is out of wack, start over after adjusting idle.

Do this with air filter and hooked up.

good luck

 

x2...or x3 I guess..

Double check that number 1 piston is at TDC and the alignment pin on the cam is on the top, and same for the timing mark on the crank pulley. Just make sure that number 1 and 4 are the ones that are up if not you need to rotate the crank one revolution.

This might explain it better:

 

No and no. The only part of the distributor that is "electronic" is the pickup that tells the ignitor to fire the plugs. Nothing is computer controlled whatsoever. Advance is controlled by 3 things on the dizzy, the 2 vaccum lines, 1 that retards the timing only when cold and the other that advances the timing. And mechanical advance springs that advance timing based on RPM. If I am not mistaken the EFI dizzy has neither of those and is controlled 100% by the ECU.

Yes the 22R has a "computer" but I have yet to see anyone actually know including myself exactly what it "controls". I believe it's ony emmisions stuff but not certain. Also the ECU on a carb'd truck I believe is not called an ECU but an emissions relay or something like that?