Follow up question on the V6 versus 4 cylinder SR5 cluster question. Went back through the posts and never saw a full answer to this but many people asking. I cannot confirm which type my cluster came from, ebay procurement.

To confirm with all of you does having the "T-belt" light mean that it can only be a V6 or could this also be an unused light? Above my tach is the number "10" and there is no red "6" anywhere. For it to be 100% a V6 cluster is the main identifying factor the red "6" regardless of everything else? Thus my cluster without the red "6", does that make my cluster ok for 4 cylinder, 5 speed?

To follow up with the transmission question. My cluster has the light screen for "A.T Oil temp" but from the sounds of it as described by previous posters this is present on the 4 cylinders as an unused light. I found this pic looking around on google images and noticed this below cluster has a "ECT" upper right section. Is this the big difference between and auto and manual?



Thanks for all the help.

 

The T-Belt light is found on most all clusters, same with the "A.T. OIL". They're just indicator lights that go off in mileage increments of... I dunno, 60k miles? It doesn't actually "sense" a T-BELT.

As far ast ECT upper-right corner, YES. I don't know which transmission you have, but automatics came with the ECT switch. It is a user-operated selection that delays transmission shifting... it's for towing stuff. You select it to prevent engine boggingwhen going up grades with a trailer and all that.

Unfortunately I can't tell you as to whether or not it botches up the "plug n play" factor into a 5 speed as far as the REST of the cluster, but a 5 speed harness will posess signal wires for a voltmeter and NOT ECT.

Lastly, I once read on here a way to adjust the tachometer. I would try searching for "How to Adjust", or if your'e crafty, you could just cruise down to a PNP and pocket a donor tachometer... you need to be gentle though when you're disassembling the cluster.

 

How much did you guys pay for the clusters off flea bay ? Sounds like something to do on the '89 !

 

Anyone still reading this ?? Found one out of an 86 with the checkerboard effect, this one should work in my 89, correct ? Both are 4 cylinder set ups .

 

Found this on 4x4wire.com and thought I would post it here as it seems to be more the rule that the temp gauge don't function properly on a cold engine.
Mine even pops up halfway with the ignition on for a while, not even started the engine.
I found many threads on here with the same question, and many with "I'll post back on how it goes"....... but no result or solution.

Here's what I found, but I have not tryed it yet as I just found it :

 

Seems like tightening the 3 mounting studs for the temp gauge did the trick, at least for me.

 

Just an FYI - If you're like me, I don't like running additional wires through the firewall unless absolutely necessary. Instead of splicing into the tach service connector wire, you can splice it inside the cab to the ECU computer pin #11 on second generation Toyota's. It's located behind the passanger kick panel. Also, if you don't have the actual contact for the A connector to your tach (pin #6), you can use a small crimp ring terminal and use the screw that connects the mylar circuit to the tach. Works great.

I just installed the SR5 guage cluster from a 1987 into my 1985. No other rewiring was required. I also installed the Altimeter/Clinometer guage pod as well. Got both from a salvage yard for $35 total.

 

WELL....... I just did this swap yesterday! (sorta took a 91 4runner cluster into my 87 pickup) not for the faint hearted OR someone who is not eletrically (wiring) sharp if using a newer cluster in an older truck.
First off before you ask why, i couldnt find a decent dash that actually fit that i liked. I wanted the tach, oil and volt gauges that mine didnt have. Plus I like the look of this panel.
The three connectors from my 87 will snap into the 91 cluster BUT the pinout is COMPLETELY different (requires moving pins from one connector to the other & lengthening several wires) AND you need to get a donor connector from the 91 vehicle (3rd one from left) and add it to the 87 harness, it handles your turn signal indicator.
Wire colors dont all match up correctly either. you need 2 power feeds and the 87 only has one BUT there is a couple black w/yellow wires that are hot in run that will work. For ground I think it calls for white w/black wires but i used the brown. Since i didnt have a 91 wiring diagram i had to trace all the, um, traces back to their function then make my own wiring diagram.
On mine there was also a plastic sleeve of some kind over the speedo end that had to be removed for my cable to fit.
Also the tach (came from a 3.slow V6 4runner and mine is a 22RE) seems to be about 2/3rds of what i think it should be (shows 1800 @ 65mph in OD) and idles around 550.
ok, now to the install. I had to cut the right mounting ear off the cluster, i also had to remove about 3/8" of plastic from the left side of the dash opening and open up the backside of the opening on the left end (where a wiring harness runs through).
I also had to remove the metal mount adapters at the top of the 87 and install it on the upper mounting ears on the dash frame (this allows you to screw down the top of the dash cover securely)
Mine isnt mounted other than being held in place by the dash cover but it is VERY secure.
Anybody intertested in more detail hit me back or leave a message here.
Happy Motoring!!!!!

 

So I just did my SR5 cluster swap finally....but for some reason it seems like the Water Temp gauge gets up to temp way faster than my other one....and takes forever to cool back down....my other one was opposite lol.

Might be nothin.....idk.

 

[quote=RogueYota;51704384]So I just did my SR5 cluster swap finally....but for some reason it seems like the Water Temp gauge gets up to temp way faster than my other one....and takes forever to cool back down....my other one was opposite lol.

Might be nothin.....idk.



I love this kinda setup. looks way better than the stock ones. putting my oil pressure sending unit in in the AM, already adjusted my tach to match my 22RE (WAY EASIER than I thought) but i love the look!!!
great job!!!!!!!!

 

Yeah thanks man....yeah I love it soooo much. Tach works awesome. Post up pics of the swap man! lol It was 20xs easier than I thought it was gunna be. Still need to get the SR5 sending unit though. It just goes up when I start it then goes back to zero lol

 

dam thats really nice but can fine one? in long beach California

 

Bring this back I did a cab swap on my 84 reg cab 22r 5spd and put a 86-87 ex cab that was a auto 22re and used all the cabs wireing to do a re swap. I have the correct oil psi sender.
The tach don't work but I think I figured that out from here.
Now my fuel gauge is pegged full all the time even when I unplug the sender at tank.
Oil reads 0. Temp starts off just below half then when warm its in the red.

Mph works and volts work only.

 

Im also looking for a little input related to this. I picked up a sr5 cluster from an 87 4runner to replace the early sr5 cluster in my 84 pickup. The original cluster I had seemed to be working except the temp gauge would jump to the middle just from turning the key on.

The problem Im seeing with this 87 cluster is the oil pressure gauge sits at the first line up from L, it doesn't drop to L. This is with it plugged in or not. With the truck running all the gauges seem to work even the oil pressure gauge just higher up on the gauge. Is anyone familiar with this and is there a way to fix it?

 

I got all the gauges working on mine turns out the cluster was a 87 re 5 SPD cluster and the trucks wireing was a auto so I just moved some wires on the back of the cluster and it works. Put oils on low line till I rev it then goes up

 

Is there a way to easily remove the oil and temp gauges from the cluster? I pulled the screws from the back but the gauges wouldn't move.

 

Man. I really, really, really miss my truck. Don't ever sell your trucks... Good to see people
are still getting some use from this thread.

 

Im also about to do this swap but my oil pressure switch has a prong style connector and the guage sender has a button type connector. Anyone else run into this? also my oil pressure switch broke off when I tried to remove it. then the easy out broke inside of that! now I have to figure out how to get this thing out...

 

There is probably a picture in this thread but as far as I know the same conector fits both type of senders, the only way I can describe it is that it slides on sideways on the gauge sender.
If your broken one isn't leaking you might be able to leave it and put the gauge sender in another hole. My 84 has the early block and the po installed the gauge sender to the left of the oil filter but most I've seen are under the oil filter.

 

I got it drilled out but it damaged the hole badly. Closed it up with jb weld for now