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Doing the SR-5 Gauge Cluster Swap... HOW TO with pictures.
#181
WOW! That is what I have been looking for. That cleared up the tach wire. Haven't seen another write up on it anywhere. Thanks!
#182
I did my retrofit 3 plus years ago. Every few months I get an email notification of a new message. Good to see it is still going on. I deleted most of my pictures from 3 years ago to make room.
My instrument cluster did not have the tach wire. I do not remember the details, except from what I remember from looking at the pictures I took.
My 12 pin connector had just 2 wires. Slot number 6 is for the tach and I had no wire in that slot. I numbered the slots with a green sharpie so I would get the wire I added into the correct slot. I had already hooked up the end of this test wire to the green plug. Shoved the other end into slot 6 and sarted it up to see if the tach worked. The test wire was run outside the truck with my door and hood open.

Since the tach worked I put a drop of hot melt glue to hold the wire into slot 6. In reality it was unecessary because there would be nothing tugging that wire out of the connector once the connector was plugged into the back of the cluster. Did not know back then I could have used a screw on the back of the cluster to make this connection, or I would have done it that way.

Here is the connector that now has the tach wire. I taped the new wire to the existing 2 yellow wires. The other end of the wire went into the engine compartment via the gromet in the fire wall for the hood release.

My green plug still had the rubber boot. Poked a hole in it with an awl. Shove the end of the wire through the hole then crimped on the terminal.

Here it is almost together. You can see the terminal I crimped on. I have not yet seated the boot buy sliding it down the crimped on terminal.

Taped the new wire to the hood release cable.
My instrument cluster did not have the tach wire. I do not remember the details, except from what I remember from looking at the pictures I took.
My 12 pin connector had just 2 wires. Slot number 6 is for the tach and I had no wire in that slot. I numbered the slots with a green sharpie so I would get the wire I added into the correct slot. I had already hooked up the end of this test wire to the green plug. Shoved the other end into slot 6 and sarted it up to see if the tach worked. The test wire was run outside the truck with my door and hood open.

Since the tach worked I put a drop of hot melt glue to hold the wire into slot 6. In reality it was unecessary because there would be nothing tugging that wire out of the connector once the connector was plugged into the back of the cluster. Did not know back then I could have used a screw on the back of the cluster to make this connection, or I would have done it that way.

Here is the connector that now has the tach wire. I taped the new wire to the existing 2 yellow wires. The other end of the wire went into the engine compartment via the gromet in the fire wall for the hood release.

My green plug still had the rubber boot. Poked a hole in it with an awl. Shove the end of the wire through the hole then crimped on the terminal.

Here it is almost together. You can see the terminal I crimped on. I have not yet seated the boot buy sliding it down the crimped on terminal.

Taped the new wire to the hood release cable.
Last edited by Tool Pants; Feb 23, 2010 at 03:39 PM.
#183
I did my retrofit 3 plus years ago. Every few months I get an email notification of a new message. Good to see it is still going on. I deleted most of my pictures from 3 years ago to make room.
My instrument cluster did not have the tach wire. I do not remember the details, except from what I remember from looking at the pictures I took.
My 12 pin connector had just 2 wires. Slot number 6 is for the tach and I had no wire in that slot. I numbered the slots so I would get the wire I added into the correct slot. I had already hooked up the end of this test wire to the green plug. Shoved the other end into slot 6 and sarted it up to see if the tach worked. The test wire was run outside the truck with my door and hood open.

Since the tach worked I put a drop of hot melt glue to hold the wire into slot 6. In reality it was unecessary because there would be nothing tugging that wire out of the connector once the connector was plugged into the back of the cluster.

My instrument cluster did not have the tach wire. I do not remember the details, except from what I remember from looking at the pictures I took.
My 12 pin connector had just 2 wires. Slot number 6 is for the tach and I had no wire in that slot. I numbered the slots so I would get the wire I added into the correct slot. I had already hooked up the end of this test wire to the green plug. Shoved the other end into slot 6 and sarted it up to see if the tach worked. The test wire was run outside the truck with my door and hood open.

Since the tach worked I put a drop of hot melt glue to hold the wire into slot 6. In reality it was unecessary because there would be nothing tugging that wire out of the connector once the connector was plugged into the back of the cluster.

Yeah buddy, That hot glue idea is awesome! I failed to mention that mine did not have the wire there also, I guess i skipped this step because i didn't do it this way but yes this is a great way to do it as well and has more of a factory look to it! A+
#184
I tested the tach wire for continuity, it was fine. Swapped the cluster out for a known working cluster, tach still didn't work.
Help!
#185
If you tested your tach wire for a signal and it was fine then you must have no power or ground supplying the tach circut of the cluster. On the back of the cluster with the cluster plugged in as normal take your test light and touch it on the screw head labeled IGN. If you have power there then your positive lead is fine. Now take your test light and touch it on the IGN screw head again but this time use the other end of the test light wire ( ground ) and touch it on the far screw label with some jap looking symbols. This is the ground source for the tach. If your light does not light up then you have no ground. make sure the key is in the run position while making these tests. If all that checks out i say run a new wire for the tach signal as stated in the write up i did just up half a page or so and try that to make sure your original tach wiring is not just malfunctioning in some way. Hope that helps..
#186
Hey guys, I have discovered that there is a new scenario! I pulled the SR5 Cluster out of a factory Turbo truck and put it in my Truck. The cluster was an 87 mine an 88. I had already done the SR5 cluster conversion before on the truck and everything worked great, but since I did the turbo engine swap I wanted the cluster the the "Turbo" LED indicator.
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.
#187
OK guys I have read all 8 pages here and didn't see my problem anywhere so here we go. My 86 was originally an automatic but now a 5spd, so I assumed the computer is still the auto one. I found an SR5 cluster from an auto 87 4 runner. Pretty much plug and play after the sending unit change out. By the way old oil switch broke off in the block!!! Have you ever tried to find a tap that is 1/8" british standard pipe thread. Anyway, my speedometer sticks now goes up slow and down slow and sticks sometimes. Any ideas on that one and the water temp is crazy now to.
#189
Hey guys, I have discovered that there is a new scenario! I pulled the SR5 Cluster out of a factory Turbo truck and put it in my Truck. The cluster was an 87 mine an 88. I had already done the SR5 cluster conversion before on the truck and everything worked great, but since I did the turbo engine swap I wanted the cluster the the "Turbo" LED indicator.
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.
#190
[quote=khoopes;51383938]Hey guys, I have discovered that there is a new scenario! I pulled the SR5 Cluster out of a factory Turbo truck and put it in my Truck. The cluster was an 87 mine an 88. I had already done the SR5 cluster conversion before on the truck and everything worked great, but since I did the turbo engine swap I wanted the cluster the the "Turbo" LED indicator.
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.[/quote]
Anymore info on this turbo situation? Just wondering if i should go ahead with the swap even though i have a trubo cluster going in a non turbo truck? I dont really want to rewire everything so maybe I need a non turbo sr5 cluster?
thoughts from anyone?
Thanks
Long story short nothing worked, I found a bad trace on the cluster that supplied power to the cluster and repaired it. Still no tach or Oil pressure or gas gauge. So I got out the service manual (downloaded form the internet) and started going through it. It was for my 88 and luckily they still had 2wd Turbo trucks in 88. The Turbo cluster is NOT a plug and play item, several wires for various features I mentioned are pinned out differently then the non-turbo cluster. So I have the job of re-wiring the connectors to move the correct signals where they need to go.
Just thought I'd mention this in case anyone else tries it.
It's only on the Turbo cluster with the little green Turbo LED near the center.[/quote]
Anymore info on this turbo situation? Just wondering if i should go ahead with the swap even though i have a trubo cluster going in a non turbo truck? I dont really want to rewire everything so maybe I need a non turbo sr5 cluster?
thoughts from anyone?
Thanks
#192
Thanks for clarifying dc, i was just reading the fsm and saw that after i posted.
Anyone need a TURBO sr5 cluseter with 165,xxx on it? pm me, i also have the oil sending unit to go with it.....
Anyone need a TURBO sr5 cluseter with 165,xxx on it? pm me, i also have the oil sending unit to go with it.....
#193
As far as making the wiring work, would you only need to swap some of the pin connections on the plug of the wire harness currently in my runner or would you do this on the cluster side of things?
Thanks for the help!
#195
Awesome post, thank you for all the info. I am in the process of installing a SR5 cluster into my speed 22R 1986 4x4. Just purchased a cluster off ebay and was told it was from a 87 4runner 5 speed. Just got the cluster and it looks like a 4runner, V6, auto 
I wanted to add some pics as they have been discussed but no pics to show the t-belt light, filter light etc. You can also see this is from a 4 runner as it has a "back door" light. I also noticed on the back is a "T-belt" point.
Hope this helps.



I wanted to add some pics as they have been discussed but no pics to show the t-belt light, filter light etc. You can also see this is from a 4 runner as it has a "back door" light. I also noticed on the back is a "T-belt" point.
Hope this helps.


#196
Just because it has the "A.T. Oil Temp" screen in the front doesn't mean that it won't work with a manual transmission. Some of those are just unused.
Mine looks the same and worked fine ('87, 22RE, manual transmission).

Here are two large pics (bigger than inline pic above) of my SR5 cluster that I installed for comparison:
http://www.talgas.com/pics/personal/...-reference.jpg
http://www.talgas.com/pics/personal/...-reference.jpg
Mine looks the same and worked fine ('87, 22RE, manual transmission).

Here are two large pics (bigger than inline pic above) of my SR5 cluster that I installed for comparison:
http://www.talgas.com/pics/personal/...-reference.jpg
http://www.talgas.com/pics/personal/...-reference.jpg
Last edited by Windsor; Sep 22, 2010 at 02:37 PM.
#198
anyone know for sure if the oil sending unit out of a turbo truck is the same as an oil sending unit out of non turbo? only reason I ask, is my toyota parts dude said they call for different ones, but a different parts supplier said they are the same. I know they both use the gauge not the idiot light for the cluster, but I am still not sure the trubo unit is the same as the non turbo? Any info in greatly appreciated!
--my cluster is out of an 87 runner, 22re, 5sp, and I show all of the lights you show above, however some are just not used, as Winsor stated above!
--my cluster is out of an 87 runner, 22re, 5sp, and I show all of the lights you show above, however some are just not used, as Winsor stated above!
Last edited by OrRunner; Sep 23, 2010 at 07:38 AM.
#199
The only reason the sending units would be different depends on whether or not the 22RTE runs a higher oil pressure. I have heard through the grape vine that turbo engines came with a higher pressure pump in some cars to provide pressure to the turbo cooling lines. But it all comes down to the pressure release.
Honestly though, I doubt they're different senders. And if they were, I'd go with the one that matches your engine... not the cluster.
Honestly though, I doubt they're different senders. And if they were, I'd go with the one that matches your engine... not the cluster.
#200
Well, I think the reason for the bigger oil pumps on the turbo isn't for the pressure but for the increase in volume. In the end (most) turbo engines don't run with significantly higher pressure since that's just a waste of power to generate it.
A nicely-built turbo engine sprays oil on the bottom side of the piston to help cool things down, for example.
On the note of turbo oil feed, the turbo bearings take fairly low pressure compared to the rest of the engine. Most have an orifice to reduce the pressure, otherwise oil seeps into the compressor and you get a "smoker".
A nicely-built turbo engine sprays oil on the bottom side of the piston to help cool things down, for example.
On the note of turbo oil feed, the turbo bearings take fairly low pressure compared to the rest of the engine. Most have an orifice to reduce the pressure, otherwise oil seeps into the compressor and you get a "smoker".







