Crank bolt R/R with oil in the cylinder 22re
06-07-2009, 11:04 PM
#1
Crank bolt R/R with oil in the cylinder 22re
On a 85 22re truck. I read somewhere I could fill the #1 cylinder half full with motor oil on the compression upstroke. And then let the hydralic pressure hold the engine still while I torque on and off the crank bolt. This sounds like a Godsend for this common problem. But could the pressure burst the combustion chamber?
06-08-2009, 04:55 PM
#3
I found this on Wikipedia:
Symptoms and Damage
If an engine hydrolocks while at speed it will tend to bend connection rods or crack the crankcase itself. This will manifest in a crashing\screeching sound and usually requires the replacement or a rebuild of the engine.
If an engine hydrolocks while idling or under low power conditions the engine can stop suddenly with no internal damage. In this case the water can be removed from the combustion chambers by unscrewing the spark plugs\injectors and spinning the engine to remove water. Depending on how the water was introduced to the engine it can simply be restarted and dried out or it may require more work, such as draining the oil or replacing a blown gasket.
If a cylinder fills with liquid while turned off the engine will refuse to spin when it is attempted to be started. This will usually not produce damage as long as the operator doesn't continue to try and start the engine or a corrosive substance (water) has not been in the engine long enough to cause rusting. The engine can be drained as above and restarted if not requiring more repairs.
So it looks like holding the engine with oil in the cylinder must not damage the engine.
Symptoms and Damage
If an engine hydrolocks while at speed it will tend to bend connection rods or crack the crankcase itself. This will manifest in a crashing\screeching sound and usually requires the replacement or a rebuild of the engine.
If an engine hydrolocks while idling or under low power conditions the engine can stop suddenly with no internal damage. In this case the water can be removed from the combustion chambers by unscrewing the spark plugs\injectors and spinning the engine to remove water. Depending on how the water was introduced to the engine it can simply be restarted and dried out or it may require more work, such as draining the oil or replacing a blown gasket.
If a cylinder fills with liquid while turned off the engine will refuse to spin when it is attempted to be started. This will usually not produce damage as long as the operator doesn't continue to try and start the engine or a corrosive substance (water) has not been in the engine long enough to cause rusting. The engine can be drained as above and restarted if not requiring more repairs.
So it looks like holding the engine with oil in the cylinder must not damage the engine.
06-09-2009, 06:32 AM
#5
Registered User
You can make a simple tool that will make the job very easy. In posts 26, 49, and 52 of this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...92/index2.html is a sketch, picture, and instructions. Take care,
Bugs
Bugs
Last edited by bugs1961; 06-09-2009 at 01:11 PM.
06-11-2009, 04:00 PM
#7
Registered User
Yea, that is how it is set up for removing cam pulleys on 3vz's but if you take those bolts out you can use the holes to bolt the tool to your crank pulley. There are threaded 8mm x 1.25 holes in the crank pulley that are used to hold the power steering pulley to the crank pulley. Just bolt the tool to the crank pulley and and let it hit the ground or the frame while you turn the crank. The tool will stop the crank from turning and you can loosen or tighten the crank bolt.
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06-11-2009, 09:33 PM
#9
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omg get proper socket and a breaker bar. rest the breaker bar against the frame and turn the ignition to crank position. the 300ft pounds of force the starter puts out will loosen the crak bolt.. have fun make friends
06-18-2009, 06:08 PM
#11
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sounds good in theory, didnt work for me. I even used a 550 ft lb 1/2 inch impact wrench and that crank bolt isnt coming off. I know everywhere I've read says that its a standard thread bolt, but man, i'm stumped here. Used heat, pb blaster, 5 foot cheater bar with me hanging off of it, nothing. This darn bolt just wont come off. Mine is an 89 truck.
06-19-2009, 08:09 AM
#12
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Huh. Be sure to disconnect the coil when you use that method. Mine came off with just a cheap socket wrench that had a "telescoping" breaker bar on it. Came loose with just me pushing on it. Of course when it broke free I smashed my knuckle against the frame bad enough that I probably should have got stitches...but the bolt did come right off.
06-19-2009, 08:24 AM
#13
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I'm fully convinced whoever owned this truck before used JB weld on the crank bolt. This darn thing is going to break off in the crank, I just know it.
Anyway, I'm going to harbor freight today to pick up a 3/4 inch impact wrench with 1250 ft lbs of torque to try to get it to budge. I'm going to remove the AC condenser and front grill to give me enough room with this impact wrench. I'll probably have to jack up the engine a bit also to clear the bumper area. Looking at the engine from the front of the truck, the engine rotates clockwise and I should take the bolt off CCW according to everything I've read.. Standard thread and everything. Just doesn't seem possible ATM and I'm a big guy and was hanging off the flex handle with a long cheater bar on it and the darn thing wouldn't budge.
06-19-2009, 08:27 AM
#14
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This bolt is going to break off in the crank, I can feel it.
I'm heading to harbor freight over lunch to check out their 3/4 inch impact wrenches. I found one they have which is 1250 ft lbs on sale locally for $99.00. Going to have to remove the AC condenser, front grill, and probably jack up the front of the truck to get the impact socket on the bolt.
I was hanging off the cheater bar that was placed over the flex handle and that bolt wouldn't budge at all last night. I'm a big guy too.
I think whoever put this bolt on used JB weld and a whole tube of loctite. So far, heat and impact wrench hammering hasn't even phased it. I've replaced a few harmonic balancers and removed crank pullies in my life but this one takes the cake.
I'm heading to harbor freight over lunch to check out their 3/4 inch impact wrenches. I found one they have which is 1250 ft lbs on sale locally for $99.00. Going to have to remove the AC condenser, front grill, and probably jack up the front of the truck to get the impact socket on the bolt.
I was hanging off the cheater bar that was placed over the flex handle and that bolt wouldn't budge at all last night. I'm a big guy too.
I think whoever put this bolt on used JB weld and a whole tube of loctite. So far, heat and impact wrench hammering hasn't even phased it. I've replaced a few harmonic balancers and removed crank pullies in my life but this one takes the cake.
11-10-2012, 04:55 PM
#16
I eventually filled the #1 cylinder with 1/4 inch rope about 30 feet of it on the up stroke and the bolt came right off with breaker bar. I plan to use this method in reverse if I ever put it back together.
11-10-2012, 10:51 PM
#18
Yes. I have a guy who will finish it for $300 if I pay in advance. The timing chain. I am waiting to buy an A/C compressor so I know which brackets to put back with the timing cover. It's a Toyota Motor Home with the 22RE. I just need some encouragement and a good mechanic. Thanks
11-11-2012, 10:01 AM
#20
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You can use rope in the same way when replacing valve stem seals if you don't have access to an air compressor.
