gone through a pint of brake fluid pumping and pumping and bubbles bubbles bubbles... what do you guys think? bad slave cylinder, master cylinder? it wont bleed. no matter how much i pump it and how much fluid had gone through it. huge bubbles comming out. bad lines? no idea. suggestions?

 

If no leaks can be found, maybe try something like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474

Helped me one time, or two... maybe three.

 

Ok, mater full, press the cluth peddle no more than 3 times. This is a two person job. One to work the clutch peddle one to work the bleeder screw.

person 1 presses the clutch peddle in and HOLDS it there. person 2 loosens the bleeder screw, stuff squirts out. #2 tightens the bleeder screw, then tells the first person it's ok to let up off the peddle. Now the peddle gets pressed down and HELD, the bleeder gets loosened and the stuff squirts out. The bleeder is tightened and then the clutch peddle is released....till no air is comming out. Should not take more than 10 to 20 times or less.

My guess is the person holding the peddle down is letting it up before the bleeder is tight. letting air back in the line.

If that is the way you are doing it...leak in the line would be my guess.
2nd guess would be the master cylinder.

 

x2 if you have no help you can pump the clutch peddle in the same manner and put a 2x4 on the peddle to the seat and hold it in.Leave over night and the air will come back through the system by itself

 

Bench bleeding is important on these trucks, but lucky there is a great work around that works flawlessly. I have done this on no less than 12 yotas now


1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.

 

i use one of those cheapo one man bleeders from the parts store, the kind with a clear hose with a valve on the end. works good.

 

yea i have a bleeding kit. i was under the truck opening and closing the valve. my buddy shawn was in the driver seat pumping and holding the clutch when i told him to and his girfriend was topping off the fluid whenever it got low. my real question for starting this thread wasnt how to do it. but ive done it multipule times and gone through a lot of brake fluid and no matter how much we do the bubbles dont stop. they keep on comming. bad master or slave cylinder?

 

bump. im bringing this thread back to life because now that i fixed my brakes i need something to repair. so i know how to bleed and have done it endlessly. i dont see at first glance any fluid leaking out of the hoses. does anyone have a guess at weather the master or slave cylinder is bad?

 

I had a similar problem with the last clutch master cyl I installed. I bled and bled, and it seemed like I was still getting a bunch of really, really small bubbles. The pedal was super soft and it wouldn't engage the clutch, and I couldn't put the rig in gear. I went through at least a whole large bottle of fluid.

So, I started messing with the adjustment of the push rod and pedal height. Just adjusting that gave me a solid clutch pedal in about a minute, and I haven't bled it since. That was about 7 or 8 months ago.

 

i adjusted that and it helped a little but it seems like there isnt enough pressure to seperate the plates. im thinking that they're 21 years old and should just replace both of them. if one is bad its not going to hurt to replace the other too.

 

so, this is a stupid question but where exactly is this clutch pin thing you guys speak of???

"the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play"

I am a big fat arse guy so it is hard for me to get into the floor board area to find this. Plus the fact that I have a full cage that blocks part of the bottom part of the dash.

Also, where is this???............

"So, I started messing with the adjustment of the push rod and pedal height. Just adjusting that gave me a solid clutch pedal in about a minute, and I haven't bled it since. That was about 7 or 8 months ago"

Thanks guys, I am also having clutch issues.

Aaron

 

if you can fit. (no offence) it was hard for me and im a small guy. pay a neighorhood kid to do it. haha, anyways. follow the clutch pedal up to the top where the hinge is. there should be a bolt and nut somewhere up there that you can adjust the 'freeplay' with.

 

OK, I will give it a try. I might end up hospitalized though

What about the pin thing? I want to do the adjust till there is a 1/4 inch of play in it so I can bleed the system. MIne is screwed right now.

 

new master and slave installed. wont bleed. everything is hooked up correctly. is there anyting special im supposed to do since the parts are new? i followed your guys directions and its not working. no pressure on the clutch and no fluid is comming out the bleeder valve. the pedal is hooked up to the master correctly. im frustrated. someone make my night better? i want to drive home tonight

 

bleed and bleed. fluid is not going through the system. its not making any sence

 

I went through this and first found my hydraulic line to the master cylinder had a hairline crack where it fits up to the master cylinder. I fixed that then still could not get the air out. As a friend pushed the pedal I noticed air bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir. I took the new master cylinder back, exchanged it for another and bled the system. Hope this helps.

 

alright. after bench bleeding my m/c was not working i took it back and excanged it and got a new one along with a different method of bench bleeding. got it all working and WOW what a difference. i guess its always the 2nd m/c that works

 

same problem, new m/c, s/c, new clutch and no pedal. wont bleed. nothing no matter what way we do it, bench bleeding, adjusting the pedal and letting it sit overnight. i am pissed. i am about ready to push it off a cliff. any help?

 

I installed new clutch and throw out etc, put it all back together and installed new slave cylinder and master cylinder, I cannot get them to work no way, they will not bleed enough to disengage the clutch plates and put the truck in gear. the clutch took me a day to install, but I've been f*&kin with this master slave cylinder thing for two weeks, HELP!

 

I'm working on this as we speak, if anyone has an answer my email is
sornsonr@yahoo.com