Clutch is soft after cylinder replacement
#1
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Clutch is soft after cylinder replacement
So... I replaced both the master and slave clutch cylinders with brand new ones. I bled the line 4 time and set the master cylinder arm to the same setting as the previous one. However, my clutch works... Its just a lot softer than i imgined. Should i bleed it a few more times? There isnt any more air coming out of the bleeder valve. Thanks.
#2
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So... if you clutch works... don't fix it.
If you can shift gears while the engine is running and/or you are driving down the road... and it doesn't slip...it isn't broke.
If you can shift gears while the engine is running and/or you are driving down the road... and it doesn't slip...it isn't broke.
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Yeah i get that, but I like it when the peddle is a little more stiff. Maybe it will build more pressure over time?
#4
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Not likely. If you want more pedal resistance put another return spring on it. It won't make your clutch grab any better (hydraulic clutches don't work that way) but it will make you push harder on the pedal if that is what you really want.
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Thanks. I dont think i even have one return spring. I thing the old one was so hard because of the gunk lol. I guess the other option is to lower my peddle. It doesnt really engage until im near the floorboard. What im really trying to avoid is all the unnecessary "play" in my clutch peddle.
#6
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Did you go through the setup process as described in the manual? There's a few separate measurements and adjustments to be made such as the free play of the pedal before the clutch begins to engage and the pedal height from the floor. Not having a return spring would make the pedal feel softer, of course.
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Well i dont know what happened but its really soft today and i have to push it all the way to the floor to shift... Looks like ill bleed it a couple more times
#9
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What brand of parts did you use? It's not unheard of for cheap replacement parts to go bad immediately. I had shops install 3 different sets of leaky master and slave cylinders over the years, before I did the job myself with Aisin parts from Japan. They aren't pricey from the right vendor, but they work great and last.
#12
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So that fixed it?
Normally you only need to give a decent tug on the wrench. Wonder if there was a burr or some other imperfection on the sealing surface of the bleeder valve.
Normally you only need to give a decent tug on the wrench. Wonder if there was a burr or some other imperfection on the sealing surface of the bleeder valve.
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So, I tightened it as you described... because because lets face it... Its just ableeder valve and that WOULD be the correct way to tighten it. After i wrenched on it some more it fixed the leak and i was able to build pressure. However i wont if the leak let air in and i have to bleed the system all over again? It still looses pressure and i have checked for leaks on yhe entire system and havent found any. It had better action with the old leaking cylinder
#14
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You probably bled it the right way, but just to cover all the bases: are you doing this job solo or is there someone pressing the clutch in while you crack open and then close the valve?
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#16
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As long as it's holding the pedal all the way down that should work. I'd bleed it at least one more tine under compression, if you cracked it open without holding the pedal down the last time.
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Sooo... Thats what my plan is as soon as I have help... The socket kit wasnt hold it it ALL the way down... But i felt it was far enough to work :/
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So. No matter what the problem was... I re-bled the system 2x (there was air in it)... And had a friend help with pumping... That fixed the problem. Who knew doing it properly would help?
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