This has started happening when I start it for the first time that day and only does it when it's warming up. This happens with the automatic choke on my Weber 32/36 carb. Why is it spitting out this carbon pile?

 

The choke forces it to run rich. Better start-up, faster warm ups.

This doesn't mean there might not be issue you need to find. Give it once over to make sure the vacuum lines are good and follow up the next time it's warm enough it doesn't close the choke.

 

So all carbureted 22r's do this? Is the choke supposed to turn off on its own? I have to hit the gas to disengage mine. Doesn't really seem "automatic" .

 

Not all carb'd 22Rs have a Weber carb.

Is the choke supposed to turn off on its own? If it is a non-manual choke yes, but it needs to be properly adjusted. Is yours an electric or water choke?

Help us help you, pictures tell 1000 words

How long hare you has this set up?

 

It has the electric choke that does move as it warms up, but I guess it just doesn't fully go vertical in the throat. It's pouring right now but I'll try and get some pictures when it stops. Any requests?
​​​​

 

Close up of the choke showing the adjustment notches.

How long hare you has this set up?
also
What is the status of tune (timing, valve adjustment, etc.) on your engine? Was the carb tested/re jetted when you installed it?

 

I got the carb from a friend and rebuilt it and re-jetted it back to factory sea level settings (I live on the coast). It's been on the truck for about 4 years now. Besides the initial fussing with it to get it dialed in its ran fine. This carbon thing started about 6 months ago. I re checked all the vacuum lines and hoses, timing, plugs and anything else I could think of. I couldn't find anything that was out of wack.

 

It's tough to have efi type efficiency with a carb, especially during the warm up period.
Most of the time, we are sitting in the cab driving, and never see what is coming out of the tailpipe... It'd be rare to have a 'choke' on a carb do these things simultaneously;
enable the engine to start quickly
idle smoothly w/o stumbling or dying.
accelerate w/o hesitation
nice 'clean' exhaust
There is a very fine line betwixt!

The warm up period is a very demanding time.. thank goodness it's fairly short.. You are experiencing too rich symptoms for the load applied.. I'd bet you if you adjust to open the choke either quicker, or at a cooler temp, (less choke for the temp seen) you'll find yourself juggling between good cold drivability, and too much fuel, and the resulting 'carbon pile'. It can be hair pulling.
I'd start to verify it's coming completely off when HOT, Most carb'd engines should be fairly 'driveable' with no choke with just a minimal amount of heat.... say 100 degrees. Check choke position during your next warm up... It should come completely 'off' before engine is completely warmed up. Best way to warm up? Drive it..
BTW check your air filter!!!

 

This is cold with the choke engaged.
And this is after warming up and being driven around the block a couple times. I don't think it moved.

 

On the round black cap, where the choke wire attaches, there is usually a tab. And on the ring (with the 3 screws that attach the cap to the carb) there are usually notches (5 IIRC). Those give an indication of where the choke is adjusted. Problem is I don't see the notches etc on yours - is the ring possibly turned so the notches are not up top? Can you get a closer pic?

Perhaps it is out of adjustment. Also, make sure the linkage between the choke flap and the electro mechanism (back of the round black cap) are attached.

P.S. What fuel pressure are you running?

 

I tried to get a better pic, but couldn't. I took the ring off and didn't find notches on either side. You can see the tab just below the wire connector. Having notches to go by would be awesome. I'm running around 3psi for fuel pressure too.

 

Did you see the inside of the choke mechanism when the ring was off? If so how did it look? clean / dirty / etc?

Next, I would check the wiring and the sensor (IIRC) to see if they are well connected.

Is the linkage between the choke flap and the choke mechanism (behind the round black cap) attached and able to freely move?

 

Found the problem. The wire providing power to the choke was loose. Pushed it back in, turned on the ignition, and after a minute or two it started to open. Thanks for all the help.

 

XLNT, make sure you clean up the wire(s) really good and re-crimp the connection tightly.