Hmm, can't say I'm surprised the guy on the Seattle craigslist is from Molalla, OR. Where the men are men, and the sheep run scared!

Anyhow, not too keen on the stacked spacers, either, but they are steel so could be welded together. Also really hope you don't believe that each 1/2" spacer equals 1" of lift...but if you do end up raked I would recommend the SDORI spacers from 4Crawler and maybe his diff drop spacers.

 

Watch it bub! That's my home town you're dissin' on there. BTW, we ain't sheep herders, we're cowboys and cowgirls.

And now that you mention it, we're skydivers too. http://www.skydiveoregon.com/

Shows what you know...

 

Going to get the springs now. See ya'll in a few hours.

 

I picture.....my driveway.....mid April...after we get Joe's motor in.

 

Haha, I know a few people from there and also Colton, and I went skydiving there a couple times. All in good fun!

 

Haha way way soon er than that, but yeah, definitely doing this in your driveway.

Shackles I think are gonna be too big. 6" center to center. But these things are beef that's for sure.

The one shackle bolt I guess is stuck and they hacked the old mount off the truck to get the leaf off. No bushings on the other side of the shackle. Just on the leafs.

Now just to get the time to do em.

 

Nice score man!!!

 

I wonder if I should have the mods move this thread to a more general section.

ANyway, I am debating if I want to spend the time rebuilding and freshining up these springs.

The overload leaf (well bottom thick leaf) is cocked a little and not lined up with the rest of the springs in one of the packs.

I don't have a press, but I have several c-clamps, and no real heat except for the propane torch that I had gotten from Jerry.

The ends of each spring are not drilled for sliders/spacers and not sure what to use between each spring, or just use graphite paint. They are however seem to be drilled on the ends for the retainer clamps.

Researching this a little, I've seen some people using UHMW-PE strips between the packs, or drilling out the the tips to use sliders and then some just using graphite paint.

So at a quandary as what to do with them while they are sitting on my basement floor waiting to get installed.

Looking at these shackles a little more, when I measured them it was center hole to center hole, but beginning to think I should have measured them from the inside edges of the holes. Which puts them at 5.5". 2" over what I understand to be 3.5" factory length shackles. That's another 1" of lift from them, and not sure how much and if I will need to reset the pinion angle of the diff. NWOR mentions to use 4° Alignment Shims when a 3-4" lift is involved.

This puts me at 3.5" over all assuming the springs are in fact 2.5" and not 2" or 3" springs.

Googled my butt off and cannot find one spring manufacture that sells 2.5" lift springs. All are either 2" or 3" springs.

 

Well maybe they are in fact not lift springs after all...

Could it be that they are different springs that gave the truck 2.5" of lift? Hmmmmm

 

no it was a general consensus that OEM height springs are almost flat to begin with. Due to the arch on the spring, that they are in fact lift springs. And being that they are Military Wrap springs, they are definitely not an OEM spring pack with an AAL on the bottom of the pack.

But this is just going by what ya'all are saying about the OEM height springs not my first hand experience with them.

Maybe they are a 2" spring that gave a truck a 2.5" lift because it's springs were sagged though.

 

Different springs from a totally different vehicle is what I was getting at...

 

I plan on using graphite paint and some slip pads I got from Trail-Gear for my 63's, and from what I've read you can drill through the springs fairly easy with a concrete drill bit. Apparently if you try a carbide one you'll just ruin the bit. I looked into UHMW too, but it would've been pretty expensive. At least everywhere I looked to order it online would've been. I'm really in the middle of nowhere and there's no plastic shops within 2 hours driving from me.

Also, my rear OEM springs aren't flat, but I'm pretty sure they don't have that much arch to them. The fronts are the ones that are always flat or even negative.

 

well the spring width seems to be toyota as well as the eyelet to eyelet measurement. (44.5")

but I hadn't thought about that. I took a troll over to pirate4x4's bible and not too much info on springs. Not that helped me anyway.

 

All depends on the type of drive shaft:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ12

 

Single Cardan Rear, which means the lift will cause my pinion angle to point the pinion flange closer to the ground right? So since it's a SOA and rear I would instert the shim with the larger end towards the rear of the truck.

That's if I am reading that right.

 

Nope, only the shackle length will affect the angles:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...FixingProblems

 

ok that's where the NWOR site is confusing. So even if these are 2" longer shackles giving me an additional ~1" lift, then I should be fine even though I would be lifted approx 3.5" over "stock" ?

 

With stock rear shaft, li9fting the rear end with springs has no affect on pinion angle w.r.t. the t-case flange angle. They both increase but at the same rate so stay parallel. Shackles will tip the pinion up, about 1* per extra inch of length as noted on the first link posted. So 2" longer shackle = ~2* angle change that might need to be corrected. All depends on how close the alignment is now and how close it ends up after the springs and shackles are in. Best to measure alignment before and after and then if you find vibes, you know what changed and by how much and can then correct it:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1

And NWOR's rule of so many degrees per so much lift is basically meaningless out of context.

 

Thanks 4crawler. I've read those pages on your site several times before this, but now it actually makes sense.