I'm hoping that Roger (aka 4Crawler) will see this post and chime in with some advice. I'm about to install TRD elockers front and rear into an 85 4Runner using an FZJ80 ECU and switch. The FZJ80 wiring diagrams show a 30amp switched (ignition on only) power supply to the ECU but I'm thinking that 15 or 20 is adequate. I have been doing quite a bit of searching and would like to maybe install a Painles 7 circuit kit or something similar for future expansion when I do the elocker mod.

Has anyone pulled power, and in particular, ignition only power from either of the fuse boxes or do you always go back to the battery? It appears in the following link that Roger did pull power from the Engine fuse box but it appears to be constant hot power and not switched power.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...werPoint.shtml

If you now look at a close up of this box and the circuit description you will see that there seems to be two unused slots intended for diesel motors, one 60 amp and one 80 amp. Are these extra, unfused, slots or are they either/or with the gas engine?

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#Electrical

So why am I asking all these silly questions? I can't seem to find a fuse block that fits my exact needs. If I could find an adequate, ignition on, power source in this box for the elockers then I could install a constant hot fuse block from the battery for the other wiring needs that I foresee, all of which I would like to be always hot (off-road lights, power points, etc.).

Also, my 4Runner is a few thousand miles away and I want to have all parts and design in hand when I get back to work on it. These things are always difficult when you can't just lift the hood and look for yourself.

BTW, Kudos to Roger Brown for his website. I can't tell you how many times I've referenced it.

Thanks!

 

There's some tech info on slee's site that I saw a while back... perhaps that will help too. Good luck.

 

Never tried that, give it a shot and see what happens. Or you can add a relay to turn on with the ignition and use that to supply power.

 

http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...ch=Fuse+Blocks

 

Thanks Rob. I've looked at all their products and might go that way but nothing perfectly suits me. As I said, I only need one switched power source for the elockers and everything else needs to be unswitched. I might go with one of their 3/4 splits and just make it work.

 

Well, as suspected, it does work. If anyone wants to add a circuit or even add fuse protection in front of an auxillary wiring block, this is a very clean way to do it. If you look at the fuse holder in your engine bay, you will see that there are two fuses shown at the far right and one is listed as "AM1, 60 AMP, Diesel". This position is unused. It is connected directly to the battery via the fusable link and, as the used position next to it is 80 Amps, I assume that you could put up to an 80 Amp fuse in this location.

To install a fuse there, you need to take the cover off the fuse box and then undo the three bolts that hold the fuse box to the body. I would disconnect the positive battery cable before proceeding further. With these bolts undone, you can turn the fuse box over and remove the bottom (4 built-in clips, 2 on each side). It takes some doing but the two fuse positions (unused one and the 80 amp one) will slide out the bottom as an assembly. This was a bit difficult and the catch is on the other side of the 80 amp fuse.

You can now install one of these bladed fuses and install a cable on the side opposite the wire going to the battery. The connection point is on each side of the blades of these fuses. Apologies that I don't have photos of the fuses out. As you can see, I installed a 30 Amp fuse and it goes to a relay which provides power to my new front and rear elockers. My wire is sized for 30 but I only needed 15 or 20. Unfortunately, 30 Amps was the smallest fuse of this type that I could find.