toocheaptosmoke

Been reading up on old threads for a while, still can get things to charge. I'll start off with a history of what's happened.

Got the truck, last year and have put over 2000 miles on it since then, 1984-22R externally regulated. Ever since I had the truck the charge and brake light would flash when idling with no electrical load. If you revved the engine or turned on the heater fan, the lights would not flash. You could see the volt meter dip as the lights flashed, at a rate of about 2x/second. But the battery was still getting 14.x volts while running. New battery also. Never had an issue with the battery going dead.

Fast forward to last week, on way home from school I notice my volt meter has dropped to about half, I figure the alternator finally shat the bed. Voltage was 12 volts while running, 12.2 when off. Took the alt to the zone, tested out bad like I suspected, got a reman. Put that in, no dice. Checked grounds, couldn't find any thing wrong, even tried adding another ground directly to the alt. Checked voltage directly on the alt while running, 11.9. Unplugged IC regulator, no increase in voltage. Checked fuses in kick panel, and by the battery. While running on the battery, the charge never comes on. But, if I smack the charge relay down by the kick panel, it comes on. Is there any way to jump the relay manually to field the alt?

The voltage regulator seemed to work fine before, so I am a bit hesitant to just throw money at things. If I knew this was going to be such a PITA I would have just fabbed the dam bracket for a GM alt, but now I got money into the reman yota alt. Appreciate any help.

myyota

You would be better off converting over to an 85-88 internally regulated alternator, its very easy to wire up and you would be able to do away with the old alternator and external regulator.

kdo58

gm 1 wire.

myyota

No, stock toyota 85-88 alternator that is a direct swap and three wires to hook up and your done, and your using all toyota parts.

toocheaptosmoke

But the problem with the 85+ alternator is it also takes a different bracket? If I would have known this wasn't going to be a drop in fix I would have got a different alternator from the start, but now I have $45 bucks tied up in this one, need to make it work.

myyota

I can understand that. If your sure the new alternator is good try testing the voltage regulator to see if its working. Look in the factory service manual, it should tell you how to test it. If you don`t have a FSM you can down load it from this site.

toocheaptosmoke

Will do. I've been trying to find a FSM for the 84 and earlier trucks but can't find one on here? Only for 85 and up without the external IC regulator. Is there anywhere else to find the specs to test the IC regulator? The alternator has the sticker "tested and approved" but I did not have them run it before I left the store, may have to have it tested.

myyota

See if you can find a FSM for an 83 truck, it should be the same as your 84, i would think.

Xtracab22r

My truck I've owned about a year has always shown 17 volts on the gauge but no over charging symptoms I pulled the motor and did the timing chain after I got it back in the charge and brake light were on showing the same volts as always, decided it was time to fix it . Bought a new ic regulator and hooked it up started driving made it maybe 200 yards and my volt gauge was pinned out at 22+ unplugged the new regulator ( the old one tested bad) and charge dropped to 13-14 charge/brake light still on replaced my charge fuse in engine compartment lights turned off drove truck a couple miles let it idle for 30 minutes still no lights went to pull away from my pRking spot and lights turned on. Then today i started my truck no no charge/brake light went 200 feet and they came back on

RAD4Runner

What truck-year-model?

Charge fuse does not cause or prevent a problem. It is only there to Tell You If There's a problem. Measure actual voltage output at alternator output "B" post, where thick wire screws into, with an accurate volt-meter.
From FSM:
With engine from idle to 2000RPM, Voltages at B should be:
13.9 to 15.1 V @25°C (77°F)
13.5 - 14.3V @115°C (239°F)
Temp is probably engine compartment temp.

1) IF it is within range and charge light is still on, either regulator is bad OR something's wrong with charge fault light circuit
2) IF it is beyond that range regulator is bad AND fault circuit is doing its job of telling you something is wrong.

First-gen MoreFunner 22RE charging system explained.

Xtracab22r

84 sr5 4x4 22r weber no smog double roller timing chain. Alternator terminal b? I have a plug and a hot wire that goes on under a nut. My new regulator made everything worse is it possible I have an internally regulated alternator? Like I said I unplugged my ic regulator and have been driving it for three days charge is holding good. I'll test after work today and get exact measurements

RAD4Runner

84... I believe that generation has external regulator. (Need fellow owners to chime in here). ON this type of alternator output itself would be UNregulated. The output would vary a lot (possibly like your 22 Volts). Therefore, "B", the regulated output which connects to battery should be at the regulator, not the alternator body.

That's something you need to verify.

On alternator with internal regulator, "B" post is that 6-mm diameter bolt on alternator itself. That is the regulated output (13.5V to 15.1V). That's where you connect to the battery.

Best of luck.

Xtracab22r

Update: I got in my truck tonight after work so it had been sitting for about 8 hours in temps ranging for 3 degrees Fahrenheit to 16 . I got in started it up no problem but when I turned my headlights on my charge light turned off and my volts dropped to near zero; radio wouldn't turn on and the volts would not increase no matter engine rpm so I plugged my faulty ic regulator back in and started it again. Wham 17 volts for a minute drove 1 mile to the shop and Everytime I stopped my volts would drop near zero . When I got to the shop it would idle but barely battery terminals had 12.x volts the charge fuse had 3.1 on one side and 5.x on the other. The wire bolted to the back of the alternator was at 5.x

Xtracab22r

Did my alternator toast the other day and my battery was so over charged it's just now showing symptoms?

RAD4Runner

Possibly. You replaced regulators and some problem? Checked your battrry connectors? Shiny metal shud contact shiny metal. With engine off, what is battery voltages? Turn on high beam. What is battery voltage? If possible have battery tested

Xtracab22r

As my first post said when I tried a new regulator the volts went insane and my alternator started smoking so last night when I had near zero volts I plugged my old one In turned off I have 2 volts. My battery was fairly new . New battery cables new fusible links alternator was tested good right before this episode

Xtracab22r

Update: had to jumpy truck this morning it ran down the road at 3 volts then suddenly jumped up to 17 overcharge lights came on ran to work smell hot electric