Eagle564

So i finally finished swapping in a rear ifs axle and a built toyota front axle(longs,trunnion bearing elim, six shooters, v6 brakes, etc..) and doing the whole hi-steer, ifs box, rangers and 2nd gen rear springs and all that fun stuff with some 37/14.50/15s. Now it took about 3 weeks, in this time my brake lines were completely disconnected and hanging. I filled the reservoir, went around and bled all the lines 4 times now, air only came out the 1st time around. The brake pedal is rock solid with the truck off, as soon as i fire her up the pedal goes straight to the floor, the last tenth of an inch i get some slight braking but its sketchy at best. I bled them from LR, RR, RF, LF then the proportioning valve thing. Soo any ideas whats goin on? Ive seen some online say its air still, others the MC and others the brake booster. Oh and brand new brakes all around as well, not done by me. Any help would be very very much appreciated.

904_runner

I would start by bench bleeding the master!, then bleed them all again.

Eagle564

Ya thats my next step tomorrow. Im just tryin to see if thats basically the main potential problem. Easy to pull off and do to these old trucks? Im still new to toyotas, this has been a jump in and "what the hell why not" kind of build

Eagle564

Alright so i didnt bench bleed it but i cracked the lines at the MC and bled em, even hooked up a pressure bleeder and bled all the lines and the MC again. Still get a solid pedal until i turn the truck on and then i have essentially no brakes. Should i just replace the MC and possibly brake booster? Idk if they go bad sitting without fluid in them for a few weeks or so

ojm3

Is the booster still in working order? When you pump the pedal quickly and repeatedly does your idle increase, or decrease? If it decreases your booster is bad.