crankshaft pulley flexing maybe?

 

yeah first thing I did was replace the crank pulley when I got this because it was wobbly (almost separated).

installed a tach other day and find out that its going under 1k rpm then shoots to 2k rpm when shifting between gears which is causing the squeaking.
also has rough idle in drive or reverse because rpm drops under 500rpm and wants to stall bad but in park its 850-900rpm within spec... i'm thinking injectors? all vacuum hoses have been replaced

 

Took off the EGR and cleaned it up yesterday..wasn't really that dirty... also took off the IACV or auxiliary air valve off today (noticed it wasn't even plugged in!!). It was also pretty much spotless aside from some minor rust from the coolant hoses.. plugged it back in and made no difference as well.

All I really have left are my cracked exhaust manifold, O2 Sensor (no check engine code), and the temp send & engine coolant temp sensor (running halfway between middle and cold side of guage)... other than the possible injectors and black goo'd up intake manifold

 

You should sell it. There is no fixing it...

 

I've dumped too much money into it now that it won't even be worth it except for getting rid of the headache so its most likely staying now.


UPDATE: UPDATE:
Replacing stuff here and there and now it is running extremely nice & clean except for that it stumbles and bogs down around 30-45MPH constantly & only at this speed.
- What happens is it suddenly drops down from say 1.5k-2krpm crusing down to 600rpm and slowly creeps back up... about 60% of the time when this happens the belt will make a quick chirp when it bogs and drops the rpm.
- What also happens during this is if I let go of gas pedal and give it more throttle the rpm comes back to normal again but the belts will slip and chirp about 80% of the time and will keep on doing it until you let go of the throttle once again...even 10x worse going uphill...maybe due to to the abrupt rpm changes so the belt can't catch up? I dunno, but the fan belt does start to look frayed up even though its new. Also when I floor it, it has tons of power and never bogs down~

All New Parts I Replaced on truck so far:
- NGK Spark Plugs
- Napa Premium Wires, Cap, Rotor
- STP Air Filter
- Wix Fuel Filter
- All New Silicone Vacuum Hoses
- V6 Brake Booster & Master Cylinder
- Numerous bottles of various injector cleaners
- TPS (solved most of my problems I described earlier) (4crawler specs)
- Transmission Solenoids (all 3 of em)
- Transmission Filter
- Cleaned EGR
- Cleaned Throttle Body (Intake Manifold still full of black gunk)
- Transmission Cooler added
- Denso Starter rebuilt
- Denso Alternator rebuilt
- Idler Pulley
- Hayden Fan Clutch
- Belts
- Denso O2 Sensor
- ECT sensor + thermostat + temp switch for guage
- Other stuff I can't remember....

All these items but still this one minor problem is making me crazy...
Only things that I can list that might be causing my problem would be my cracked exhaust manifold, injectors, gunked up intake, or AFM(door moves freely and looks really clean)... btw no engine codes at all...
I'm about to just breakdown and take it to a mechanic to diagnose probably with something I've already replaced...


I'm keeping my original post so future members will be able to find this by searching

 

Tested out AFM today according to 4crawler's guide. It fluctuated over 1000 ohms which it shouldn't so I got an AFM from an early 90s 22re 2wd Pickup which tested good (never went under 20 or over 1000 ohms) while moving the flap door for $28 at the junkyard. Everything fit except the AFM itself looked different (oval end black shape on top instead of square box) but bolted and plugged right in with no check engine lights. Was hoping this would solve all my stumble and bogging down @ 30-40mph problems that I've been chasing because the old one tested bad, but NOPE.. still the same problem... Needless to say I'm going out of my mind over this small little gremlin, arghhhh.

 

Finally replaced my cracked exhaust manifold today, only encountered two stripped threads on the head but wasn't bad overall. Engine sounds smoother and has a tiny bit more power over hills but my bogging still happens. I might record a video later.

 

I have an extra air meter in san jose that you can try if you want.

 

Thanks but I already have another AFM I got from the junkyard.

Next up, injectors maybe???

 

So I adjusted my timing today from 5 degrees jumped to around 7-8 degrees jumped and what do you know, it idles and runs a little smoother, but still bogs...just not as long I guess lol........ when it bogs and rpms drop down to under 1k it just doesn't stay there as long and recovers alot faster than before... does this point to anything guys?

Also I finally got some pics of my rig that I know you guys would appreciate to see! A bit rough around the edges if you have a good eye but who's isn't?








The puny 30x9.50 Remington 'Wide Brutes' and the cool retro wagon wheels the previous owner put on. 33s are in my future for sure.




Sorry for no flex pics haha.

 

Try cleaning the knock sensor connection if you have not already done so.I also got my AFM and moved the air gate one tooth.Made a lot of differance in the mid range performance.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. After reading symptoms of a bad knock sensor online, I thought this was really the root of my problems...so today I took a look at the knock sensor and it's clean as a whistle. The wiring and connectors had no dirt, mud, corrosion, etc. The wire shielding going all the into the harness looked like it did back in 1985. Put some dielectric grease on there anyways. Sorta bummed but sorta happy it wasn't my knock sensor or the wiring. Hasn't thrown a code anyways. The search continues....

 

Thats a good looking 85 pickup. I was gonna say i have some spear injectors laying around but just remember its for the later 22re with the different connetors haha sorry now allthis is meaningless. Haha have you tried using a different ECU? Just a thought

 

Yeah I got a spare ECU from the junkyard. Tried swapping them out many times and still no difference lol... What I'll most likely do is just save up and have the dealer diagnose it since they have like 5 Toyota Master Techs so they should find out whats the problem.

I like your truck too, looks agressive with those 33s! Most of the Toyota in my area are driven by the og's who just keep it boring stock lol

 

Haha thanks. Which part of norcal are you from? And the dealer idea is gonna have to be the last thing on the list. Just cause there so exspensive you should ask 4crawler hes a super toyota texh also

 

I live in Oroville, but I'm in Chico half the time since I go to work/college there.
And yeah I try to look at 4crawler's site whenever I get free time and search on yotatech alot, otherwise I'm fooling around with the truck trying to come up with ideas or working lol.

 

Oroville! Haha my girlfriend's anuts n uncles live there. Maybe you know them. I was there last summer and saw a huge lifted 2nd gen 4runner there. At walmart too i believe. Haha

 

That's one beautiful truck and I don't like red.

:wabbit2:

 

Finally an update on this thing....
I narrowed it down the the POS automatic (100% sure it is) which sucks out 70hp from the 22RE..my solution was to do an auto to manual swap..the automatic really is that bad.....

Tried searching for a manual tranny for two months on craigslist and didn't really find anything...all were either unknown condition or way overpriced (wanted $700-800) for just tranny & tcase alone!! So I had a better idea and just decided to buy another truck for parts instead so I would have anything I would need. Even this is hard in California with all the demand for these mini trucks and their crazy prices.

I finally had some cash and found an '85 SR5 Pickup in OK shape for $800..has an 89+ 22RE, '86 Bed, and like 3 different layers of previous rattle can paint jobs... I think it has a G52 tranny since the firewall says 22R, but I won't know for sure if it was ever swapped for a W56 until I drop it since they even bothered to do a 22R to 22RE swap with a whole new engine harness. Nice things about it though was that I popped the valve cover and found what looked like a nice new shiny head!

Guy sold it to me since he had lost the papers for it and had a rod knock from driving it on the highway with very low oil, and it was sitting for months on his small property.. seemed to me he was pretty clueless about these trucks lol..got it on my trailer after an hour or so of fighting a seized rear drum brake and took it home. All it needed was a battery and some oil to get her started..rod knock did sound kind of bad on start up but quieted down a lil bit later on..tested 4x4, worked fine..tried driving it on my street and went up to 4th gear with no problems! yay lol. Reverse works too. It will need some new marlin crawler shifter bushings though since it has tons of play. Whats nice about it is that it has a complete solid axle (that I really have no use for since I already have one) with aisin hubs, newish head, even a nice stereo I could gut out, and those rare seats with the SR5 logos (even though I already have leather Celica Supra seats in mine), and an SR5 cluster.

In the process of gutting out interior at the moment, and starting to take out the tranny.

Will update later whenever I'm done with the swap. Hope this all goes well.

Edit: Wow, big wall of text haha!

 

Soooo...how much for those sr5 seats?