I would suggest doing the valve adjustment as suggested and see what happens. Since you are in a rather cold area 10/30 is likely the recommended weight.
How many miles on your engine and have you done a compression check to see what condition the engine is generally in?

 

So your truck is a 22REC but the ECU is a 22R. I don't know if changing out the ECU is required when going from the injected engine to carbed.
Someone here should know and/or you may want to do some searching here.

 

So What are the valve specs since the hood is different than the motor that is in the truck so I know that the engine was rebuilt before being ran on propane I have pictures the body say 148 thousand but different motor different miles so should I stay with the 10 30 oil or go 10 40 also I tried to run it on 2 psi lost a bit of power so dialed it back to 1.5 unless I should mess with timing more but its driving fine I'm doing a plug swap and oil change this week h

 

I don't recall the valve adjust specs off the top of my head - search the forum it has been posted a number of times.

The move up to 2 psi should not make it run any better or worse. There is another problem.

 

.008" intake and .012" exhaust, stock cam. Adjust while the engine's hot.

 

It doesn't need the ECU now that it's a carb. The ECU although stamped 22R is for the EFI 22RE.

 

That Engine Control Unit should not be doing anything now that this engine has a carburetor but it gives us a window into this truck's history.

As far as the engine being loud, I would check the valve adjustment and adjust as necessary.

If you live in an area where it stays cold most of the year, I would tend to stay away from "thick" oils as it takes longer for "thick" oil to circulate in a stone-cold engine in the morning, which could cause more wear on your engine at startup than necessary.

 

^^ Yes, the older 22R-E engines had Engine Control Units with 22R on the label, the later 22R-E Engine Control Units had 22R-E on them.