When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I bought this 85 pickup needs some love but I have been searching and trying and trying I'm getting very discouraged at the moment so I've timed it 4 times gone through all the steps over and over to no prevail but a ˟˟˟˟ty running 22re so the truck has a weber 38/38 on it and previous owner did a desmog and I heard you dont do the timing advance I still have that line on the second port hooked to my weber or should I unhook it and cap the Weber off? The desmogg was not done the LCe way I'm going to buy there plates cause I like them much better
I know you said you have a Weber carburetor currently, but did this truck have a 22R or a 22R-E originally? The 22R is carbureted and the 22R-E is fuel injected.
I am far from a Weber expert, but a 38/38 is a "lot of carburetor" for this size engine. Is this engine stock otherwise?
What fuel pump and pressure regulator are you running?
Hopefully someone with Weber knowledge will chime in. YotaTech member L5wolvesf seems to be our resident Weber guru.
I am far from a Weber expert, but a 38/38 is a "lot of carburetor" for this size engine. Is this engine stock otherwise?
What fuel pump and pressure regulator are you running?
Hopefully someone with Weber knowledge will chime in. YotaTech member L5wolvesf seems to be our resident Weber guru.
Pleeease don't Guru me - I've just learned some stuff from Gurus. Anyways . . .
Unless you have a lot of modifications to the engine then yes the 38/38 is too much carb for a stock engine. It is essentially a race carb on a 4 cylinder motor.
That said . . . you can get it to run on a stock motor so 87's questions are relevant. Also, what else has been done to this engine? Have you ever seen this motor run?
As far as mods I have no clue I know it was rebuilt new head ect so your guess is as good as mine I'm just getting so frustrated cause I've changed plugs everything it's getting redicules
Where are the notches on the choke set? and Describe how the choke isn't working right.
You might want to drop the timing 2 more degrees just to see how it reacts.
The stock exhaust suggests the PO had a stock carb problem and "thought" the 38 would be a good choice. The PO doesn't seem to have been well informed.
So I got the truck running well at 14 degrees witch way should I ajust timing advance or retard yeah I know the truck was molested I've been working through a rats nest of issues that I've sorted out it's running pretty good but I feel I could do better I have the mixture screws on the 38 at 7/8 of a turn out and the elec choke notch is to the right of center of screws and is working ok how do I set the mixture screw on the choke
Also the truck was previously ran on propane and the choke would close back up cause the coil wasnt putting enough pressure to keep open and also the left mixture screw isnt as immediate notice of difference in idle as the right
Also the truck was previously ran on propane and the choke would close back up cause the coil wasnt putting enough pressure to keep open and also the left mixture screw isnt as immediate notice of difference in idle as the right
Adjust the choke so it opens completely when warmed up. Pull out both idle jets and see if they are clogged up. Then pop the top off the carb and see if it looks clean inside.
Pics are always a good idea.
Synthetic oil acts thinner than the same weight of conventional because it's molecules are much closer together in size. That's usually a good thing except in a worn engine. If you want to stick to synthetic, try 15w40 or even 20w50. Otherwise, conventional 10w40 might help keep it quieter. Have you adjusted the valves yet?
I havent ajusted the valves yet was going to tackle that very soon though thanks for the oil input will be swapping that this week I think I have the 22r engine as well
08-24-2018, 05:24 PM
