So I bought this 85 pickup needs some love but I have been searching and trying and trying I'm getting very discouraged at the moment so I've timed it 4 times gone through all the steps over and over to no prevail but a ˟˟˟˟ty running 22re so the truck has a weber 38/38 on it and previous owner did a desmog and I heard you dont do the timing advance I still have that line on the second port hooked to my weber or should I unhook it and cap the Weber off? The desmogg was not done the LCe way I'm going to buy there plates cause I like them much better

 

There could be a lot going on here.

How do you know your ignition timing is off?

I know you said you have a Weber carburetor currently, but did this truck have a 22R or a 22R-E originally? The 22R is carbureted and the 22R-E is fuel injected.

I am far from a Weber expert, but a 38/38 is a "lot of carburetor" for this size engine. Is this engine stock otherwise?

What fuel pump and pressure regulator are you running?

Hopefully someone with Weber knowledge will chime in. YotaTech member L5wolvesf seems to be our resident Weber guru.

 

Pleeease don't Guru me - I've just learned some stuff from Gurus. Anyways . . .
Unless you have a lot of modifications to the engine then yes the 38/38 is too much carb for a stock engine. It is essentially a race carb on a 4 cylinder motor.
That said . . . you can get it to run on a stock motor so 87's questions are relevant. Also, what else has been done to this engine? Have you ever seen this motor run?

Pictures would help a lot.

 

Noted for next time!

Hehe....

Well..... compared to me.....

you are a Weber guru!




x2 on taking pictures of your engine bay!

 

So yes I have the truck running real ˟˟˟˟ty it was efi I believe I advanced timing to 14degrees today not idling but top end was better

 

As far as mods I have no clue I know it was rebuilt new head ect so your guess is as good as mine I'm just getting so frustrated cause I've changed plugs everything it's getting redicules

 

I am merely a grasshoppa that has survived

I see you have a regulator - what psi is it set at?
Where are the notches on the choke? Do you know how to R & R the choke?

14 degrees timing sounds like a bit much - I'll let others chime in on that.

You left out a pic of the exhaust side of the engine

 

Taking a picture now and I downed it to 12 degree and it's running ok high idle though 900 rpm electric check isn't working right

 

What psi is the fuel pressure regulator set at?

Where are the notches on the choke set? and Describe how the choke isn't working right.

You might want to drop the timing 2 more degrees just to see how it reacts.

The stock exhaust suggests the PO had a stock carb problem and "thought" the 38 would be a good choice. The PO doesn't seem to have been well informed.

 

So I got the truck running well at 14 degrees witch way should I ajust timing advance or retard yeah I know the truck was molested I've been working through a rats nest of issues that I've sorted out it's running pretty good but I feel I could do better I have the mixture screws on the 38 at 7/8 of a turn out and the elec choke notch is to the right of center of screws and is working ok how do I set the mixture screw on the choke

 

And I'm at 1.5 psi on the regulator

 

Also the truck was previously ran on propane and the choke would close back up cause the coil wasnt putting enough pressure to keep open and also the left mixture screw isnt as immediate notice of difference in idle as the right

 

I know all of you are laughing cause that's a cheap ass regulator but I was in a pinch and it was the quickest option

 

Those regulators have been around for a very long time as long as it is accurate it should be fine. I would bump it up to 2.0 psi and see how it does.

 

Adjust the choke so it opens completely when warmed up. Pull out both idle jets and see if they are clogged up. Then pop the top off the carb and see if it looks clean inside.
Pics are always a good idea.

 

Ok will do also what oil should I run I'm using 10 30 full synthetic but engine seems loud

 

Post up your location in the profile

 

Synthetic oil acts thinner than the same weight of conventional because it's molecules are much closer together in size. That's usually a good thing except in a worn engine. If you want to stick to synthetic, try 15w40 or even 20w50. Otherwise, conventional 10w40 might help keep it quieter. Have you adjusted the valves yet?

 

I havent ajusted the valves yet was going to tackle that very soon though thanks for the oil input will be swapping that this week I think I have the 22r engine as well

 

That's the ecu