85 pickup pulls hard right when breaking?
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85 pickup pulls hard right when breaking?
Hello everybody i am the proud new owner of this baby
Anyways it has a few problems. Needs a new brake booster(when the car idles it jumps up and town i cant pinpoint it so im just replacing the whole thing), and i need a new 5.29 rear. Anyways when i was driving it home today i noticed that when i brake the car pulls hard right and i have to steer left to keep it going straight. Can anyboby tell me what could be causing this???
Edit: this only happens when i have to brake hard to stop fast.
Anyways it has a few problems. Needs a new brake booster(when the car idles it jumps up and town i cant pinpoint it so im just replacing the whole thing), and i need a new 5.29 rear. Anyways when i was driving it home today i noticed that when i brake the car pulls hard right and i have to steer left to keep it going straight. Can anyboby tell me what could be causing this???
Edit: this only happens when i have to brake hard to stop fast.
Last edited by rocklover; 07-29-2008 at 08:53 AM.
#2
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My first guess would be something wrong with the braking system causing at least one of the left brakes to not work. I would do a quick check for bent brake lines, then see if the brakes will bleed. If one of the left side brakes does not squirt out fluid, then your problem is in the hydraulic system. Any kind of oil leaking on a left brake could cause it to not grab as hard as the right, which would also be the problem. Another possiblilty is that the left caliper is stuck, and you would need to rebuild it. How does the brake pedal feel?
What exactly do you mean "jumps up and down"? Are you talking about the idle speed or the brake pedal? If you think the brake booster is effecting your idle, unplug the vacuum hose from the intake manifold and put a cap over the open port. If your idle is still off, then it is not the brake booster.
What exactly do you mean "jumps up and down"? Are you talking about the idle speed or the brake pedal? If you think the brake booster is effecting your idle, unplug the vacuum hose from the intake manifold and put a cap over the open port. If your idle is still off, then it is not the brake booster.
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My first guess would be something wrong with the braking system causing at least one of the left brakes to not work. I would do a quick check for bent brake lines, then see if the brakes will bleed. If one of the left side brakes does not squirt out fluid, then your problem is in the hydraulic system. Any kind of oil leaking on a left brake could cause it to not grab as hard as the right, which would also be the problem. Another possiblilty is that the left caliper is stuck, and you would need to rebuild it. How does the brake pedal feel?
What exactly do you mean "jumps up and down"? Are you talking about the idle speed or the brake pedal? If you think the brake booster is effecting your idle, unplug the vacuum hose from the intake manifold and put a cap over the open port. If your idle is still off, then it is not the brake booster.
What exactly do you mean "jumps up and down"? Are you talking about the idle speed or the brake pedal? If you think the brake booster is effecting your idle, unplug the vacuum hose from the intake manifold and put a cap over the open port. If your idle is still off, then it is not the brake booster.
#4
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If this was my truck, I would go through the entire brake system. I would change both of the rear wheel cylinders (about $10 each), inspect the shoes while you are in there and make sure they are adjusted. I would probably just rebuild the front calipers at the same time, or you could thoroughly bleed the brake system after doing the wheel cylinders and see if it works better. That oil could also be a bad rear axle seal.
Do like I said in the previous post to test the brake booster. Plug the port on the engine side and see if your idle improves.
Do like I said in the previous post to test the brake booster. Plug the port on the engine side and see if your idle improves.
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If this was my truck, I would go through the entire brake system. I would change both of the rear wheel cylinders (about $10 each), inspect the shoes while you are in there and make sure they are adjusted. I would probably just rebuild the front calipers at the same time, or you could thoroughly bleed the brake system after doing the wheel cylinders and see if it works better. That oil could also be a bad rear axle seal.
Do like I said in the previous post to test the brake booster. Plug the port on the engine side and see if your idle improves.
Do like I said in the previous post to test the brake booster. Plug the port on the engine side and see if your idle improves.
Im wondering if that is causing the line not being able to tighten after a certain point, because the right rear one is sitting a good inch above the leaf spring and i cant figure out why?
and for testing the vacuum line i cant figure out which one to pull off and plug?
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oh yea and when this happens it feels like the whole left side of my truck is going to swing around
Edit: this only happens when i have to brake hard and stop fast.
Last edited by rocklover; 07-29-2008 at 08:52 AM.
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If you are looking at that, most likely you don't have a torque rod(Red Arrow)
If you don't, when you hit the brakes, the axle rotates, causing the drag link to move, causing it to steer to the right.
#12
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That cable resting on the leaf spring does not look right, but that is just the parking brake cable. I would guess that the cable support closer to the center of the axle is probably a little bent. It would be a good idea to take that drum off and look at the brake assembly to make sure everything is there and no critical components are bent.
The hose to pull would be the large vacuum hose coming off of the intake manifold that goes to the brake booster. You can follow it coming off of the brake booster, along the firewall, and then it attaches to the intake manifold. Pull it off of the manifold and put a cap over the open port. Start the truck and see if your idle improves. If it idles normal, then either the brake booster or the hose going to it is bad. If it still idles bad, then the brake booster is not the problem.
The hose to pull would be the large vacuum hose coming off of the intake manifold that goes to the brake booster. You can follow it coming off of the brake booster, along the firewall, and then it attaches to the intake manifold. Pull it off of the manifold and put a cap over the open port. Start the truck and see if your idle improves. If it idles normal, then either the brake booster or the hose going to it is bad. If it still idles bad, then the brake booster is not the problem.
Last edited by the_supernerd; 07-29-2008 at 09:46 AM.
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okay unfortunately i dont think i have the torque bar there. the previous owner must have taken it off. i can see a bracket on the axle but nothing attached to it. so now what do i do?
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That cable resting on the leaf spring does not look right, but that is just the parking brake cable. I would guess that the cable support closer to the center of the axle is probably a little bent. It would be a good idea to take that drum off and look at the brake assembly to make sure everything is there and no critical components are bent.
The hose to pull would be the large vacuum hose coming off of the intake manifold that goes to the brake booster. You can follow it coming off of the brake booster, along the firewall, and then it attaches to the intake manifold. Pull it off of the manifold and put a cap over the open port. Start the truck and see if your idle improves. If it idles normal, then either the brake booster or the hose going to it is bad. If it still idles bad, then the brake booster is not the problem.
The hose to pull would be the large vacuum hose coming off of the intake manifold that goes to the brake booster. You can follow it coming off of the brake booster, along the firewall, and then it attaches to the intake manifold. Pull it off of the manifold and put a cap over the open port. Start the truck and see if your idle improves. If it idles normal, then either the brake booster or the hose going to it is bad. If it still idles bad, then the brake booster is not the problem.
Edit: I need to let the engine cool for a little before i pull that hose, but to clarify is it the hose running from the front of the booster, along the fire wall, then to the top/side of the engine block, with another hose above it?
Last edited by rocklover; 07-29-2008 at 10:07 AM.
#15
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Is this a 22R or 22RE engine? If it is EFI, then see the link below for the irregular idle with the brakes applied:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.09.html
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.09.html
#16
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That sounds like the correct hose. That link posted by 4Crawler has some good info, also. It sounds like that torque rod is your problem. It is probably a good idea to check the rear brakes anyway since that arm is resting on the leaf spring.
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alright so im having trouble getting the vacuum hose off the manifold the dam thing wont budge including the clip holding it on.Engine is EFI. So now im just trying to figure out ow to get that dam hose off. Meanwhile im also trying to figure out where the idle screw is?
Then on top of that i noticed a hose that sticks out of the top of the engine block that goes to the intake manifold that connects just above the brake booster hose is coming loose off the top of the engine block and has oil and gunk all around it? what the hell is this hose and how can i fix it? (ill try and get some pictures up)
Then on top of that i noticed a hose that sticks out of the top of the engine block that goes to the intake manifold that connects just above the brake booster hose is coming loose off the top of the engine block and has oil and gunk all around it? what the hell is this hose and how can i fix it? (ill try and get some pictures up)
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1. Reinstall the torque rod(Most likely the stock one wont fit)
2. Put in cross over steering. (I would recommend)
This IS the reason that it is pulling when braking.
The condition of your brakes will make it worse, but this WILL make it pull to the right alot(I know, I just finished lifting my truck, don't have the torque rod in, still have the push/pull steering(cross over is next weeks project) and it pulls to the right also)!
#20
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You can also unplug the hose from the brake booster and put your thumb over it to check the idle. If it's still running funny, go ahead and remove it from the manifold also. Doing so will diagnose the hose's integrity too.
About the pulling right while braking. An '85 has a solid front axle (same as pictured above). Anyone with an '86 or newer will not have the torque rod to remove or have this issue (unless they have done a SAS and did not convert to crossover/hi-steer). Due to that fact that they have IFS!
How much lift does the truck have? I don't know why someone would have removed the torque rod unless it's lifted. It really doesn't limit flex that much.
Ya, I was amazed at how much the truck pulls during heavy braking after I removed mine too. But you know it's coming you can correct and drive it just fine. You just have to get used to it.
And yes, like 4runner freak said. Going to crossover steering is a great improvement and eliminate a lot of weak points. Especially if you plan on crawling as much as your name implies.
You mentioned 5.29 gears. What size tires are you running?? They don't look all that big.
The hose that comes off the valve cover ("the top of the engine block") and goes into the intake manifold is the re breather for the valve cover and is mostly a smog thing. It's greasy and oily because it's old and doesn't fit very well anymore. They are like $10 or less at Toyota.
You also mentioned the PARKING Brake cable touching the spring on the rear axle. This isn't a serious issue, unless it is not allowing the brake to fully disengage. But if there is slack in the cable when you have the parking brake off, then there isn't an issue. When I installed the Super Lift springs in the rear of my truck, I was disappointed when I found that same issue. but it doesn't seem to have made any difference.
Grant
About the pulling right while braking. An '85 has a solid front axle (same as pictured above). Anyone with an '86 or newer will not have the torque rod to remove or have this issue (unless they have done a SAS and did not convert to crossover/hi-steer). Due to that fact that they have IFS!
How much lift does the truck have? I don't know why someone would have removed the torque rod unless it's lifted. It really doesn't limit flex that much.
Ya, I was amazed at how much the truck pulls during heavy braking after I removed mine too. But you know it's coming you can correct and drive it just fine. You just have to get used to it.
And yes, like 4runner freak said. Going to crossover steering is a great improvement and eliminate a lot of weak points. Especially if you plan on crawling as much as your name implies.
You mentioned 5.29 gears. What size tires are you running?? They don't look all that big.
Then on top of that i noticed a hose that sticks out of the top of the engine block that goes to the intake manifold that connects just above the brake booster hose is coming loose off the top of the engine block and has oil and gunk all around it? what the hell is this hose and how can i fix it?
You also mentioned the PARKING Brake cable touching the spring on the rear axle. This isn't a serious issue, unless it is not allowing the brake to fully disengage. But if there is slack in the cable when you have the parking brake off, then there isn't an issue. When I installed the Super Lift springs in the rear of my truck, I was disappointed when I found that same issue. but it doesn't seem to have made any difference.
Grant