Ok, I've tested the signal gen and it's at 165 ohms. Good to go. I also checked the wires from the ignitor to te computer and they are good.

I checked the main relay and it reads 72 ohms between terminals 1 and 2 and infinate between 3 to 4.

All data says 1 and 2 should be 40-60 ohms. How does the main relay factor in and would that be enough to keep it from working?

I'm still looking for a factory service manual.

 

the main relay supplies power to the ECM, does the check engine light come on when you turn on the key?, if not then you computer is probably not getting power...

 

Yep, the check engine light is on.

 

I think we've got it!!! I swapped out the ignitor today with a known good one and the injectors fired! But... When I put the old one back in it worked too. I pretty much stumbled on to the fact that the problem is in the fuse block on the passenger side behind the battery. The piece that holds the 80 amp square fuse is broken away from the rest of the assembly but it looks like it's still intact. The connections on it need some serious attention. Apparently there was enough power for the starter solenoid( which was intermitent) but not enough for anything else. Should be running tommorrow after I get it all back together.

Well I learned alot here and really appreciate the support I recieved. Hopfully other people will benefit from it. This board beats the hell out of Pirate any day. Thanks alot.

Steve

 

Probably because the solenoid will pull in down to 6 volts or so. Most electronics doesn't work well with over a 10% voltage drop.

One of the first things that should be done with a starting problem is to check the voltage at the starter while trying to crank the engine over:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

Probably would have shown a low voltage and helped to find the problem faster.