I am swapping out a 4.10 welded front diff with an open one for my aussie. what is the EASIEST way to change them? i know you disconnect the driveshaft, and take off the diff bolts can i do this and keep the hubs and what not together?

 

You have to break down the front axle so you can pull the axle shafts out of the diff before you can remove it...so NO you are going to have to in essence tear down the whole axle to swap the front...the rear is a bit easier but still involves quite a bit.

Sorry.

 

damn, what all needs to come out? it was just rebuilt so will i need to buy new seals and what not?

 

You have to pull it apart enough to get the axles out of the diff but not necessarily have to replace all the seals if you know what I mean.

 

No ive never done it before, and my truck is an 88 so the manual wont help... i think i may have a buddy come over and help.

 

You'll have to remove (not fully remove if you can pull them out just far enough to get the splines out of the diff.) from the assembly both axle shafts, through the wheel hubs on each side (or the other way, as 4Crawler describes below, is EASIEST). Then just removing the driveshaft and the nuts holding the 3rd member to the axle housing is all that it takes. Your seals will be fine if you don't bang them up in the process. Wait I get ya, you need to know how to get the axle shaft out. Hold on, I got somethin'.... Best I could do, good luck.

 

are you there yet?

 

One option is to unbolt the steering arms and lower caps and then slide the whole thing out, probably need something to hold it up while it is out. Otherwise basically disassemble everything:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#TearDown

 

So if unbolt the hysteer arms and which caps? and just support the ends i can pull the axles out a little to redo the diff? it will be fast, as in im gonna pull the old one and install the new one.

 

thanks hippy!

 

The bottom knuckle bearing caps. You will need at least 2 pair of hands to do it this way, as it can be tricky getting the assembled knuckle back onto the ball and hold the knuckle bearings in place all at the same time. But you avoid all the wheel bearings, cone washers, and mess inside the axle.

 

damn that sounds nice, i hope to do that, more that i think about it, im gonna wait on this till i actually put the aussie in the diff

 

so am I to assume you will not be needing my Diff anymore?

 

Sorry no, im gonna be waiting till i can find 4.88s i wont even mess with the front till then.

 

Before you get to into this, here's the easiest way to get the axles out:

How to change one quickly Camo method
Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Swap in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.

Sorry to quote pirate in yotatech, but this method works real well for me.

RallyRoach

 

Use the Camo method described above and get some new inner axle seals. Get used to doing this since you are still on stock birfields and you'll soon than later end up braking one on the trail and have to fix it in the same manner.

 

x2. Don't have to touch the bottom caps. Just pull the steering arms and the felts.