Well I am officially a 5 spd now Still have to finish console and wiring permanent like. I did just add jumper to neutral safety switch to drive around for now. However, I will wire a few switches on circuit and run to clutch pedal plug. This way I have a safety system against theft and I have to depress clutch to start. My auto pedal bracket ( clutch and brake) did not have clutch plug to do this.

Otherwise Pretty simple stuff. I have quite a bit of 2 stroke motor experience and understand clutches, torque, and other mechanical things. First Run 1985 4 runner using 1986 4runner tranny, transfer box W56b.

Reusable parts for me were cross member but I bought a new marlin crawler transfer box mount for ease of removal next time. Front drive shaft worked no shuttering after testing - was less then 1/8 inch longer. Rear drive shaft came with 86 tranny and transfer. Adapter for auto on tranny worked. Bought the new style fork bearing so clips attached already. Flex Plate bolts do not work on Fly Wheel have to get those new to fit. Two of the upper bell housing bolts are not usable and need to get shorter ones for those two. I had to attach the upper soft line bracket from slave cylinder as my truck did not have one. From the master cylinder to the slave most of the line is hard lined. There is about 12 or so inches of soft hydraulic line that both top and bottom attach to a bracket - I had to attach to firewall via a few bolts - kinda tight but not bad. I had to cut holes for master cylinder. This is where you can mess up but all went well for me. I set the pedal bracket in I was going to use and got an exact fit spade drill bit for master cylinder hole. I popped the rear of bit with hammer and made small indentation into firewall. I went to other side of the firewall where there was more room and drilled hole. HOWEVER, the hole in bracket is lager then master cylinder - so do not cut hole that big. I measured master cylinder size and used another spade bit a few millimeters smaller and made hole - using my center punch mark. From there i used a long grinding stone to get perfect. Take your time you got one chance I did the bolt holes the same way. The hard line clutch routing was close enough and working fine - seems to add a tad more length zig zagging a few different ways the 85 didn't.

I think I covered everything...

The neutral safety switch for automatic is the smaller TAN plug under manifold - the black and black/white stripe wires on my rig - these I am jumping. The red/blue stripe is back up light. I have not attached these yet other then to test. I have not gotten to the 4WD indicator wire yet but believe it is in the big white plug - two wires - one to power one to switch. Standard on/off switch no problem hooking up either way.

Here it is in a nut shell:
1.) Remove ALL happy crap auto stuff.
2.) Remove Lower Dash under steering and one vent tube.
3.) ( Advice found on web here I believe) Just exchange entire pedal assembly ( frame) for brake and clutch ( already attached), it is easier than trying to put the clutch pedal on. Realistically you have to take off assembly anyway to add pedal. One bolt was off using the 86 pedal bracket going from a first run 85 4runner using an 86 4 runner assembly for pedals. It was the bottom most center bolt and it was off just less then a 1/4 inch. All other stuff lined up well. I just forced a bolt into hole, it stripped 3 of them but then got one in tight - no biggy.
4.) Cut Master Cylinder and bolt holes. ( see above)
5.) Install MC, clutch, tranny, transfer box, transfer case mount ( see above), cross member, and drive shafts.
6.) Jump neutral safety switch - roll down the road...


I'll update after wiring all done..........