sorry to revive this old tread but did you find what was wrong with it.

 

Im having warm hard start issues as well. I found this on the internet...Im going to give it a try. Hopefully it works.
http://www.toyotapart.com/22R-E,_22R...T-EG011-89.pdf

 

I eliminated that hot start VSV about 12 years ago on my '85/22RE. It starts just fine hot or cold, and that includes crawling along all day in Death Valley in 100F+ heat.

That VSV is supposed to prevent a sort of vapor-lock like condition from happening by keeping the fuel pressure higher when starting when the engine is hot. But the funny thing is that happens pretty much automatically as when you are starting the engine, there is little engine vacuum any way and this you are getting full fuel pressure out of the pressure regulator. And interesting that Toyota only put this doo-dad on the 4WD 22REs and one would think if it were a generic problem on 22REs, then why not on the 2WD trucks or all the Celicas and other cars that had than engine?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/8.html

I would still like to hook up a little light to that old VSV connector and see when it is actually trying to be turned on and off.

 

ya I noticed when I go to start it after being warm it helps to cycle the fuel pump before I start it. I will definitely check into that. What does the vsv normally cost? Where did you get yours from?

 

Nevermind that last post. I looked up vsv and google gave me a "vacuum switch valve" anyhow I see what you did in your link. Thanks alot for the pics those will come in handy

 

Don't know what a new one costs, but you can probably check one of the on-line Toyota parts sites.

In my case, I just eliminated that VSV, plumbed the FPR directly to the intake:


My thinking is the simpler the better.

 

Ahhhh.... a flashback from that picture, Roger! lol.... What I mean is; I've been meaning to try deleting it and looking further into my FPR and Damper in general.... The motor, mechanically is INCREDIBLY strong and wearing great, no smoke, etc.......... but I still have an issue with mileage and a TEENY miss...(NOT EVEN going gremlin hunting to the extreme I did last time, regarding the 'teeny miss', lol.... But then, my entire motor from that first machinist was fubar! lol.... So yeah, it was worth it, and anyhow, hunting so much I ended up learning a lot!.....> MUCH of it from you and others you've provided haha)....

And, while I'm at it, I'm going to investigate the Charcoal Canister..... it's hissing, and I suppose with a vacuum PUMP test, etc., I'll be able to determine whether it's an issue/whether it's a clogged up line, etc.)..... 13mpg city/20mpg hwy is NOT cutting it with me! lol.(I'm especially concerned on this one only because if IT IS an issue/causing a vacuum leak... it could pose a problem when "SMOG CHECK" time comes around in just a month! haha)

Ever have an issue with your Charcoal Can, Roger?(Ever hear of anyone having one? Or of the hissing/high pitched bubbling I'm hearing at times?).... I posted something up about it...... got 3 others stating they're experiencing the same thing.... ODD, eh? lol.

Thanks, just throwing it out there for the heck of it. I'll continue to explore it on my build, eventually.

 

I followed the FSM cleaning and testing procedures on my canister and it is working fine. Blew out quite a load of dust in one of the cleaning steps. Make sure it is all connected right:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ne_Pix/19.html

I think the main reason for failure in the canister is if it gets filled with raw gasoline or if the internal valves get blocked up. Otherwise, it should be good for a long time. From the look of mine, it seems to be original.

 

Hmmmm... Ok. Well, then I'll dig in there. I'm almost certain that mine is original.... I got the rig at 100k mi.... It's now at 264K. I know that the lil hiss from one of the hoses/hard elbows on top has to be some kind of pressure building up... just not sure how it would. I'm sure the test is pretty easy, right? .....gotta look that up asap, before smog.

Take care, Roger, ...thanks for the feedback

 

1986 22RE SR5 4x4 xtra cab bought new
New engine including complete new head (not rebuilt)@447,147 miles
New injectors
New O2 sensor
New just about everything
MPG about 22

If the temp outside is above 85 or so degrees truck turns over several times before it starts.About half the time I let off the key and try again,it takes between 3 and 10 seconds before it starts up and runs perfect.It can be morning and temp is hot in garage and truck has set over night when this happens.OR if it has set in parking lot all day in the hot sun this happens,crank crank crank till it starts, then runs perfect.It can set in the hot sun 1 hour and it cranks fine,but if it has set in the sun all day after being run its hard to start as described.
If the temp outside is below about 85 degrees it starts great on about the second round just like it should.It always cranks in the winter,this tells me the cold start injector and time switch are working,at least in winter time.I am not sure if the cold start is supposed to work in summer or not.
I have ohm tested the cold start time switch and it passed test.
I have replaced both temp sensors but not the one on thermo housing.
One of my tests when a hot day above 85 degrees not having been run I jumped the fuel pump check connector and this did not help.Still crank crank crank till it starts.Then runs fine the remander of the day and starts fine till the next day.Seems this is a summer issue
Bytheway, 453,000 miles and still on the original fuel pump.
I have tested the fuel pressure and it was exactly as the Toyota manual says it should be.
I read a thread where the vsv valve for the fpr was eliminated and this solved the hard hot start problem.
I also read a thread that included a link >http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...Lw1zzHGEbaqnjQ
This link is a tech bulletin that upgrades and replaces the # 2 temp switch and cold start time switch.Also For vehicles equipped with Air Conditioning, the ACV terminal must be disconnected from
the ECU when installing the modified Temperature Switch No. 2 (Condition 1). This is
necessary to prevent the Engine Idle–Up from working continuously after warm–up.
The problem I am having is similar to those I have read but mine has to sit over night or all day in the hot sun for this hard long cranking problem to occur.
Any help on this problem will be appreciated!!

 

Have you tried checking the fuel pressure when you are experiencing the hard start problem? That is how I found out my cause was due to the Circuit Opening relay not kicking in while starting. I had installed a fuel pressure gauge and noted that when the engine was cranking and not starting, FP was 0. Then all of a sudden, the pressure would jump to ~30psi and the engine would fire up. That is when I found the fuel pump test jumper fixed that issue for me and later it started working on it's own.

But at least that would tell you if it is a fuel, air or spark issue, since all 3 are needed for the engine to run. And did you try bypassing the fuel pressure VSV? If not, try it:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ne_Pix/10.html

 

Yes I just went outside and routed the fpr vacuum straight to intake like in the pic.Will see in the morning if this makes any difference.
Its ben raining and temp outside is 77 and will be cooler in morning when I leave so this test may not tell me anything untill it sets over night or all day in the hot sun.
I dont have a FP tester I would have to rent one from the parts store again.
The COR I can hear clicking when starting truck,I have a spare and will swap it out for next test.
Does the cold start time switch-injector aid in starting at hot temps??

 

CSI time switch actually SHOULD..... PREVENT the Cold Start Injector from coming on at all when the truck is warm. It's a "COLD START" helper, nothing else(Unless it's reading off... which would only cause you to run more rich, not lean).

The VSV-to-FPRegulator that 4crawler mentioned is SUPPOSED to be more for "HOT SOAK" conditions... Mine hasn't given me a problem, so I've not replaced it/deleted it.. But 4crawler(ROGER) did and hasn't had a single problem without it, from what I remember.

My COR, on the other hand, was MOST DEFINITELY my problem when hot starting, at one point... I would pull in the parking lot, run in and out, try to start and NOTHING! This got worse and worse until it would take like 20 minutes... Then I realized that leaving my key 'ON' position while waiting for 'WHATEVER IT WAS' to cool down was actually pushing 12V all the time to the COR, somehow(All I know is, ...when I removed the panel in there, reached up and touched the thing.... It LITERALLY BURNED ME, it was so hot!)

Ended up, PRETTY SURE, that my leaking windshield was dripping down to that side and SOAKING my COR.... so much so that it eventually destroyed it. I opened it up and it was COMPLETELY corroded in there.(in the COR)..... In fact, .... I had "Every time I wash my car it wont start" syndrome.... Ended up, I FEEL, pretty strongly, THAT, right there(leaking water onto the COR) was causing my no start.

Best wishes!

 

Over the years I have had a bad habit of getting fuel for the lawn mower from the return fuel line with fuel pump check connector jumped.One time about a year ago I did this and the next day realized I had forgot to turn the key off.It had been on all afternoon,all night and most of the next day.I cant say for certain 100 % but it seems like this is about the time this problem started.
I am a truck mechanic age 51 and pretty much old school and these OBD1 engines are a beach when something like this happens.

 

I have had another issue I have been dealing with on this truck as well. It started about the time the oil was due to be changed after I put a new engine in.I have always run the timing a bit high for better performance but,it got to where at around 1800 it would miss.I could not make it go away unless timing was set at exactly 5 degrees btdc w/ advance connector jumped like the book says.About a week ago I dug the silicone out of the top of the MAF and released the tension on the spring 3 teeth.Runs great! I read somewhere this tells the ECU to richen the fuel mixture.My brother has said all along my truck has been running lean but have yet to find any vacuum leaks.I have totally removed the EGR system sense it being an OBD1 engine it does not miss it at all. I have replaced ALL the hoses to the AAV,pcv hose,basically all the hoses period! I have been dealing with this issue for over a year now and the only thing to fix the miss was to release tension on spring in the MAF.Also installed a K&N air filter.

 

Might try hopping out after cranking the engine for a while and see if you can smell raw gasoline at the tail pipe. If so, then you are likely getting fuel but no spark, and if you don't smell gasoline, then you may not be getting fuel while cranking.

 

Ok I will check that next time it acts up,Thanks a ton for the help!!

 

Well good news and bad a little of both.Direct routing of vacuum line for FPR didnt help anything.It rained on me while out in my truck today and when I got to Wally World truck stumbled one time,then about 1 mile from the house it started stumbling BAD,about a block from home it died and wouldnt start.!st thing that came to mind was COR.SO I walked to the house got some tools and a spare COR and 4wheeler and went an swapped it out.Still wouldnt crank and stay running.I took the computer off after taking neg cable off battery and removed cover on computer,poured the water out,bumped and blowed on it till it had no more water in it,put it back on and drove it home.So this pretty much solves the year old mystery problem.The windshield has been leaking for some time,YEARS! So the xtra holes and unsealed ECU has been getting water in it whenever it was out in the rain before I built a garage.
I am not buying a Toyota ECU or a rebuilt one,follow this link,this is whats going on my truck. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...2re-p-503.html
I had a sneaking suspicion the ECU was the problem all along but with a OBD1 engine there's no sure way to tell.The tech manual says the ecu could be bad for almost every code listed in the book.

 

"Well, there's your problem"

Make sure and dry out all the foam and wiring.

I relocated my ECU to a drier location:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...fing.shtml#ECU

 

10-4 will do, I was just thinking about where I could move it too.
I also tried an electric fan a while back.I bought a fan and then got some new scrap sheet metal from scrap yard and built a shroud so it would mount to the same holes the old shroud mounted too.However the controller I bought to run the fan burnt out after just a month or so and I had to put the Toyota fan back on it.
Thanks for all the help, these links provided will be very useful..