84 truck with a 22r engine,, alternator just been replaced with new, still not charging??
Is there something between the battery and alternator that could go bad?

Gregory

 

Yes, the Voltage Regulator. Your truck has an external voltage regulator, which should be mounted to the driver's side inner fender. If it is not working correctly, even a new alternator will not charge the battery.

Here's a selection of them on Rock Auto for reference: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...regulator,4884

You may or may not be able to find one at a local part store. Where ever you get one, make sure it's the right one, there are 2 versions. One with a Round plug and one with an oval plug (check the pics on link above).
I do NOT recommend getting one of the "cheap" regulators shown. I have used the Standard Motor Products one before and the quality is quite good, plus it has a 3 year warranty.

If you take your regulator out, some parts stores can test it for you for free, IF they have the correct plug available for their testing machine. O'Reilly's is usually pretty good on this, but your experience may vary.

 

Thank you, I did find the Voltage Regulator and will take it in and have checked.
Gregory

 

13swords, thank you for the website store and all, new regulator and all is fine. Greatly appreciated !!!!!!!
Gregory

 

took it out for a run drove it about 3 miles, smelled electronics open hood nothing looks bad, but when I touched the new alternator it was hot, very hot. and the new voltage regulator was warm.
does anyone know the operating temp for an alternator? also, the amp gauge reads 18 on the dashboard.
Gregory

 

That's a voltage gauge on the dash, not an amp gauge. It may or may not be accurate. Best thing to do is use a Volt/Ohm Meter to measure exactly how much voltage the alt is actually putting out.
It would also be a good idea to use a Volt Meter to check the battery when the engine is NOT running. It should show a minimum of 12.6 volts. Less than that the battery is discharged or has internal damage & needs to be replaced.
How old is the battery? Over 3 years old I would replace it. Are the battery terminals clean & tight?

One of three things are likely happening. Either you old bad regulator has caused an issue in the alternator, the new alternator had a problem right out of the box, or your battery is faulty.
Again, you can have both of these items tested for free at almost any parts store to know for sure. Since the alt is new if it does have a problem, your warranty should cover it.

 

batt, check not running 12.35
batt running 17.60
The temperature of alternator after five minutes of running 184- 209 degrees depending on where you place the red dot.
Started to hear a new sound something loose and clunking, I think it is coming from the alternator when I push on the accelerator it lessens.

Think it might be in the alternator which could be why the high temp.??
Thanks
Gregory
,

 

I think that charging voltage is too high. Look up overcharging and why.

 

I started to go through my work and I started with the regulator, I unplug it and noticed that one pin was bent, this I found interesting so I straighten it out, thinking it didn't line up with its mate.
Remounted the connections, started up the truck, voltage meter reads 15 on the dashboard give or take, measured the battery while running 14.54 volts and after five minutes of running the temperature read 109 degrees on the alternator. I took the truck on my 3-mile test run and after returning the meters read the same as before.
Next project, getting the temperature gauge to work.

Thanks for your help, greatly appreciated !!!!
Gregory

 

Good job! To double-check, check your schematic and see if that pn you fixed is the "S" wire that connects to "B" wire near battery. If that does not connect well to regulator, it will cause the over-voltage you were seeing.
Typical alt output is 13.5V to 15.1V

 

Yes, good job finding the bent pin & fixing it. Also, follow RAD4Runner's advice in his tag line & go get a $6 volt meter from Harbor Freight for your own use. That first resting battery voltage reading worries me a bit (it's low), plus the overcharging probably didn't help the battery much. I'd be curious to know if the battery "comes back" to normal or not.

If your temp gauge is totally dead (registers NO reading at all when truck is running), it's usually one of three things. The connection to the temp sender is dirty & not making contact, the wire to the sender is broken, or the sender itself has gone bad.
If the connection is clean & tight & the wire looks intact you can test to see if it's the sender or the gauge. Disconnect the wire from the sender. Make a jumper wire - a short length of wire with both ends stripped of insulation. Put one end into the connector on the wire & attach the other bare end to a good engine ground.
Go in the cab & turn on the ignition (just turn it on, no need to start the engine). If the gauge is good it's needle should show movement. If that's the case then you know it's the sender that's bad.
Temp senders are fairly cheap & reasonably easy to replace if you have metric deep well sockets.
The temp sender is located on/in the thermostat housing on top of the engine.

Usually the gauge itself is fine so you could just replace the sender & see, but I prefer to test things myself to know exactly what's happening.