Hi guys, first time poster here. Anyway, am working on head gasket job and, while taking intake apart i broke a nipple off of the AAV. Now i cant find one ANYWHERE new or used. Any advise? Also, am struggling a little bit finding the correct AAV hoses(Two water and two air hoses), as theyre all worn out and need replacing.

 

Just where do you live ??

I have never had one of these older ones that even worked they just got the coolant hoses joined together.

Sometimes you need to get creative with the hoses to keep them from kinking.

You might be able to find a used one here someone parting a older vehicle out.

 

Ok, thanks. How important is this? I know on newer Fuel Injected vehicle with an IAC, theyre very important for idle. I assume this serves a similar purpose?

 

In theory yes but since it is not controlled by the ecu the failure does not trip the CEL

It just allows more air into the engine when the temperature is cold.

The early ones were just a strip of metal effected by the coolant temp being open when cold and closing once warm.

After so many years it just gets tired and no longer opens.

In your part of the world you should be just fine without it unless you start to get glaciers getting close to town.

 

So, I finally managed to finish this job. I managed to break two things. In addition to the AAV(Which I never could find) I broke off the VSV(Controlls vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator) I couldnt find a replacement for that either. So, I capped the nipple coming from the intake to the VSV and capped the nipple going to the throttle body. I ran the vacuum directly form the intake tree to the fuel regulator. I replaced every vacuum line. So, now the engine starts and runs...but it idles around 2000 rpms. I have looked high and low for a vacuum leak. Ideas? Thanks!

 

You made sure to cap off the vacuum and air hoses from the AAV ??

This is just a thought allowing vacuum to be drawn through the FPR all the time if it is not working like it should be.

 

So, I figured out one problem and now have another. I attached the filter plenum. Now it doesn't idle high. It just stalls. If I hold down gas it runs but let off, stalls. I have adjusted distributor one way then the other. Can tell difference, but still stalls. Also adjusted idle screw in throttle body. No change. Ideas? Thanks!

 

BTW, compression results after top end rebuild.

165
170
170
175

Pretty happy with them numbers. So, when I take off the wires from the MAF, and start the engine...starts up and idles at 2000rpm. As soon as I connect the MAF...immediately dies. So, sounds like this could be an issue? I am going to try and see if there is a test for this thing. Its a pretty big sensor...much bigger than modern MAF's. Open to ideas of course.

 

So, I tested the MAF, and all the numbers look to be within tolerance. Wish I had another one to try in its place. Blah...

 

So I took my maf apart, so I can adjust spring tension. It will idle now. But I cant seem to get the timing just right. It says 5 degrees before TDC, I can get it close, but as i turn the distributor towards the 5 degrees TDC the engine idle starts ti drop and will stall. So I adjust the MAF up(Decrease spring tension) and the the idle is high. I tried retarding the distributor one tooth...and the timing was off by like 30 degrees of the crankshaft. And the exhaust got really hot. Any ideas?

 

just for drill... did you check to see if it's throwing any codes? procedure is on the 4crawler website.

maybe post some pics of the areas in question.