Josh Man

I have this tick thinking fuel pump. But not sure cause I havent really messed with it since I go it back other then replacing the slave and ordering a new radiator.

https://youtu.be/wkar5mB0KBc


https://youtu.be/c-SAT4TK6pg

here are 2 videos I made.

13Swords

Hard to say, a lot of 20R/22R's are somewhat ticky, even with fresh valve train parts. Did you adjust the valves? I'd try that first. Valve clearances are: Intake=0.008" (0.2mm), Exhaust=0.012" (0.3mm). Those are "hot" numbers. I do mine cold on my 20R adding an extra .001"; once warmed up heat expansion brings it right into spec. Mine's reasonably quiet this way & I've had no problems with it.

Josh Man

Someone else did the rebuild for me. Once I get my feel gauge I will do this along with changing the fuel pump. Since these are the easiest things I can do atm. If none of this works I will probably put it up for sale! Also won't ever let the guy rebuild it even mess with it again. Tha ks for.your response

13Swords

No problem. Hopefully it's just the valve adjustments. Some engine builders just want to slap all the parts together & skip the "tedious" stuff like valve adjustment. Once I did mine it made a big difference in the "ticking" sound but remember, even if the adjustments are dead correct, there will still be a slight ticking sound. That's just how these motors are. It doesn't mean something's wrong or about to explode.

If you have the mechanical fuel pump (the kind mounted to the cylinder head, not the electric kind mounted in the gas tank) make sure you have the spacer for it. The builder could have forgotten the spacer, or maybe didn't even know about it. If it's not there it could easily be the cause of the ticking sound. It will also kill your fuel pump in short order. Not all new fuel pumps come with the spacer, just gaskets. The only one I know of that's complete is from Airtex (Airtex Part # 1330), example here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

If you've already bought a new pump but need the spacer you can get that separately:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...mp+spacer,6252

If you have a timing light don't forget to check your timing once you get it running again. Timing set too far advanced could also cause the ticking sound (pinging). Timing spec for your motor should be 5 degrees BTDC (before top dead center).

Hope to hear back that you've got her running and purring & not selling it!

Josh Man

timing is around 18 degrees at 1000 rpm with a Weber carb. Mechanical fuel pump has the plate. I replaced it when I first got the truck. So will replace again and the then use the feeler gauge to check everything.
thanks will keep you updated

13Swords

You just might be hearing ping. Ignition timing too far advanced will cause this. 18 degrees advanced @ idle & 1000 RPM @ idle both seem high to me. The Weber carb instead of the stocker shouldn't make much difference, unless the idle mixtures weren't set right.

The base timing setting, with distributor vac lines removed & plugged (to prevent vacuum leak), should be 5 degrees BTDC. Once the lines are plugged back into the distributor, and if your HAC valve (High Altitude Compensator) is working, it should show 12 degrees BTDC. These are the factory specs. All of this is @ idle speed. Idle speed spec should be between 700-800 RPM (manual trans).

If you've had to set idle speed to 1000 RPM to get a decent idle, that's an indication that the timing is wrong, you have a vacuum leak, or idle mixture isn't set right, or a combination of these things. I just went through this with my 20R so it's recent knowledge to me. With idle mixture set @ 6 turns out (3 times the base setting) the truck wouldn't idle right unless I advanced the timing by double; from 8 degrees to 16 degrees. It also wouldn't idle @ 800 but needed 1100 for any kind of decent idle. It was also pinging slightly @ idle & more on accel (rev up). I reset the mixture to 2 turns out, set the timing @ 8 degrees & no more ping, @ idle or under load or accel. Idles nice right @ 800 RPM.

In case you need it, here's the instructions on the Weber for setup & tuning:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm

Also in case you need it, here's instructions on valve adjustments for the 22R:
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...djustment.html

Again, I do mine .001 larger for a cold adjust (instructions call for adjusting hot); it's just easier to do & works fine.
Hope I'm not annoying you with stuff you already know; just trying to cover the bases.

Josh Man

thank you if I knew any of thus I wouldn't be asking not woukd inhave had someone rebuild my engine for me. This is all Spanish to me. Tha knyounfor all the links. I havent messed with truck yet due to working alot. Where r u located? I am in yelm, wa always could use a good teaching lol.

13Swords

If you mean you're in Yelm, Washington, I'm clear across the country from you, in Florida.

If any of the info I share doesn't make sense to you just say so & I'll try to explain it better so you can make use of it. When written out it looks more complicated that it really is, nothing to be afraid of or worried about. We all had to learn the first time ourselves & I'm always still learning myself.

Best thing you can do for your "spanish" problem is go grab the Haynes Manual for your truck. About $24 at any Autozone, O'Reillys, NAPA, or almost any other parts place. It has step by step instructions & pics on how to do most anything you need to do mechanically. The Haynes Manual # is 92075 & covers '79 to '95 pickups plus '84 to '95 4Runners. It's really complete & tells you how to do all the stuff I previously mentioned. You can do it. I always read everything I can find on a specific repair job first before tearing into it. Keeps the stress level down & prevents me from looking for too many stress relievers.

Much respect for the working a lot. Wish I had that problem.

Josh Man

Found all kinds of metal in the oil pan

13Swords

Not to doubt you but did you take a magnet to any of those little pieces to make sure they are metal? I know a freshly rebuilt engine shouldn't have that in it but just wondering if that material is something other than metal. The 22R is famous for shedding pieces of the timing chain guides (especially on the driver's side guide) over time, which are plastic. Can be hard to tell with all that oil on them.

Which makes me think of something else. Did the engine rebuilder use a new timing chain set or just recycle your old one? Or maybe never even touched the chain? That wouldn't be good. Sometimes that rattling noise can be a slack timing chain, due to multiple issues with it e.g. stretched chain, worn sprocket gears, plastic missing from guides, broken bolt hole(s) in guide plates, broken guide, bad/failing chain tensioner. That could explain the weird timing & idle issues too. A slack timing chain will retard timing; that would account for you previously stated timing setting of 18 degrees (I assume at idle?) to get it to run. Should be 5 degrees for the 22R, so that's 13 degrees out, reasonable enough symptom for excessive timing chain slack.

There are 2 ways to check this. Take off the distributor cap so you can see the rotor. Put a socket on the bolt on the crankshaft pulley and rotate the engine (in the normal running direction) with that while watching the rotor. The rotor should turn almost immediately when you rotate the engine if the chain & it's parts are good. I use the crank pulley timing mark as a guide, starting with it on the mark. If you can rotate the engine 5 degrees or more in either direction before the rotor starts turning I'd say the timing chain has a problem. I also rotate the engine back & forth a bit to account for any "normal" slack in the chain; the chain setup has a tensioner that operates on oil pressure, so there will be a small amount of slack even on a good chain setup, but it should certainly be less than 5 degrees.

The second way is to take the valve cover off & have a look at the chain setup. With a flashlight you can see if any of the plastic on the guides is broken or missing, if the guides themselves are broken, or if the top cam gear has any significant wear. Also look for any deep grooves in the guides. You can also get a big screwdriver down there & push on the driver's side of the chain to see how much slack you have. You can also push on the driver's side guide to see if it moves excessively.

Sure hope this isn't your problem. Not difficult to replace the timing set but it is a fair amount of work.

Josh Man

Sorry quick reply. Didnt read all you posted I am driving. It's hard plastic parts. I will read more and reply. It has been machined 2x that I know of. So if it's been machined to much I will have to add shim. I need to measure block and head. And no I dont have paperwork on any of the machine work.

Josh Man

So turned motor by hand alot of slack on the driver side of the chain. Everything new in there. He put plastic guides in and not the metal ones I ordered. Guides dont see any markings or ware. Another friend if mine told me I need to measure the block and head to see exactly how much was machined off. Cause if to far off it would need to be shimed.

13Swords

It's starting to sound like a lazy & dishonest "engine rebuilder" victimized you. IF all of the timing chain parts are new & the engine was TOTALLY rebuilt, there should be no reason to have small plastic parts in the oil pan. They are likely leftovers from the old guides, & he didn't even bother to take the pan off to clean it out & put in a new pan gasket. Not a good sign. That also means the bottom end wasn't even touched. There is no way to unbolt rod caps & remove the rods & pistons & replace with new with the oil pan on it.

You said the guides don't have any marks or wear, yet you have a lot of chain slack. I'm suspecting that only the guides are new because the old ones were chewed up & making noise. He may not have replaced the chain, gears or tensioner at all. I'd still like to hear the results of the 1st test I previously described (turning engine by hand, watching for rotor movement). That would definitely tell me if this is true or not. When you have more time to read what I wrote I think you'll see what I mean.

Your friend has a point, but I would also suspect that if this guy took those other "shortcuts" he probably couldn't be bother too much about getting the head, much less the block, machined. May have just popped the head off, threw a new head gasket at it & called it good. Also, if the head & block had been machined so far that they would need to be shimmed, you would have known this a while ago, as the clearance between the valves & head would not be there. Without the shim, the valves would have beaten the piston tops to death & the engine would have broken/stopped running pretty quick. The noises from that would be unmistakable, as would the VERY poor running, if it would run at all.

Knowing now that there is reason to suspect that the "rebuilder" short-cutted the process, I still think your main problem is the timing chain & related parts. It sounds like the guy did just enough to get it to run without sounding like a bunch of marbles in a tin can. Have at the tests I told you about & go from there, & don't worry about head shims right now. No substitute for good diagnosis. Again, I'll try to help you from here as much as possible.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

A bit late for this advice, sorry.

Step #1 when you hear something odd is to get out the stethoscope and localize the origin. This can narrow valve noise down to a cylinder and even tell you which side. Where ever it is loudest is the point closest to the issue..


In the free revving video it sounds more like rods than valves, but without being there can't be certain its not a valve floating due to weak springs ect.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Metal backed guides, you can't see this metal it's not all metal it's just a safety.