Kaledrah

I have recently acquired an '84 Toyota 4x4 pickup with a 22R-E engine. I paid $200 for it but it has issues. It was involved in an accident with a deer and has had the front clip, cab and drivers door damaged. It would not start initially but after some test lighting I found the igniter to be bad. Replaced the igniter and coil to be on the safe side. Engine runs but I am having an odd idle issue. When started the engine will run at ~1000 RPM, then slowly increase to ~1800 RPM over the course of ~2 Min. I couldn't wait to drive it so i took it for a spin around the yard, slow and steady in first gear. When I took it out of gear the engine quit. Fired up fine and idled at ~1800 RPM immediately. Drove it for a few more minutes and again the engine attempted to stop when I took it out of gear. I can use the accelerator to keep the engine running and it idles up again after about 10 seconds.

I have been looking for what might be causing this, and I have found many possibilities. Vacuum leaks, TPS sensor misadjusted/broken, Timing out, IAC Valve, Temperature sensors... I will be going through what I have found tomorrow but I am wondering if anyone has had this happen and if someone might be able to point me in the right direction rather than me randomly testing/replacing parts.

Thanks

Kaledrah

I have an '84 Toyota 4x4 pickup with a 22R-E engine. It has a fuel pump on the passengers wheel well and the previous owner had it wired improperly. I currently have it working off of one of the fuses under the dash that receives power when the key is turned on and it works. But I want it done right, I can't find a diagram of how its wired online and I fear it may be a backyard fix for a bad pump in the tank. Either way does anyone know if there is a power wire that is activated by the ignition in the engine bay near the passengers fender? I have checked all of the small fuses in the fuse block and can find nothing.
Thanks

Kaledrah

Update!
Engine appears to be a 22r with a 22r-e valve cover, will look into tomorrow.

Kaledrah

Engine is indeed a 22R NOT a 22R-E

BoostedRNR

So it's carborated then and not fuel injected?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I was wondering about the '84 22RE. My 84 is carb'd so that would be a 22R...... Anyway, the carbs are somewhat finicky. They dont like bent linkages, debris inside, or neglect... Check for any and all vacuum leaks. There isnt much, if any, sensor input in the 22R. It is very basic. No TPS, IAC, etc... If there are no vacuum leaks and linkage isnt bent or bound and is free moving, check the choke assy. Seems like it may be staying closed and as the truck warms up it causes the idle to raise up. Possible that the choke isnt being pulled off once its warmed up. That could be either a choke spring adjustment, or a linkage issue. Make sure all the linkages are clean and slightly lubed. Clean them with a carb cleaner spray, and lightly lubricate them with a lubricating spray. Not WD40, penetrating oil type stuff. It will dissolve away. If you have to adjust the choke spring, let me know, I will get you step by steps for this...
If this doesnt remedy anything, PLEASE post back so we can help you in any way possible. Now remember, I have a job and I work during the day. And I dont always have the option to get on in the evenings. But I will try and check this post ASAP. If we dont reply immediately, dont freak out. Hold steady, and we will come back around.... You can even PM me and I will give you my cell and we can chat live... at only $4.99/min....

BoostedRNR

I would start with a carb rebuild. I rebuilt mine and it was cake. Ran freakin awesome after so I would assume I did it right

Kaledrah

I have checked the choke pull off and it seems to be operating fine. The linkage seems good and has been oiled with good old fashioned 10w30 oil. I am more worried about the engine quitting than the fast idle. I have ran seafoam through the carb and it smoothed the idle out but did nothing for the stalling and fast idle. I can manually adjust the idle with a screw on the side of the carb that tightens the throttle cable. But when I get it idled below 1300 with the fast idle kicked off it wants to die more often. Getting sick of trouble shooting on something I know nothing about but the manual I ordered is on back order all over and will take at least 3 weeks to get here. I don't have 3 weeks as there will be snow on the ground soon. I can stumble my way around an old chevy but I am getting flustered with the complicated vacuum system on this truck. I have no emissions control where I live so if anyone can help me simplify the system I will be more than grateful. Another problem is the limited excess money and parts availability here. I live an hour away from any store that caries new parts. I have $400 to play with now but I dont want to spend it on things that are futile or only give a small increase. I can live with a fast idle but I can't have the truck stalling out on the roads around here. Thanks a lot for the replies

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

It was a $200 truck it is gonna have some baggage along with it.
Pics of what you are working with minus the aircleaner might help as someone might see. A misrouted hose or something that sticks out..
In the meantime I would read other threads that are similar to your issue and you might end up with a lightbulb going off And thinking let me try that...

Kaledrah

I found a youtube video that is exactly what I am having trouble with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aS7nP...eature=related

Someone posted that it could be a faulty fuel cut off solenoid... But the pictures in the FSM are not clear enough as to the location of the device. Please point me in the right direction

xxxtreme22r

@3:12 holding your hand over the top of the carb and idle goes up is a sign of a vacuum leak. Notice that the butterfly on the drivers side is closing as well (it's supposed to open) when he hits the gas pedal. Another sign the carb isn't pulling air through the air horn (vacuum leak).

I also caught a little bit of fuel being pushed out of the air horn. That could be an ignition timing issue. (which if it's off far enough will act somewhat like a vacuum leak.)

Try spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb (use a very liberal amt and don't use starter fluid), if the engine dies or wants to die, the base gasket(s) are leaking. As well as looking for obvious signs of vacuum leaks. Another one could be that steel rail vacuum line assembly likes to get pin holes in it when they rust out.

Engine won't run nearly that long if it's a problem with the fuel cut-off solenoid.

Engine RPM sounds about right for it being on the choke when cold. But him running it for over 6 minutes should have brought it off the choke. Make sure the choke coil is getting +12V when key is in the ON position.

So might be two issues going on there.

Kaledrah

Alright, I sprayed starting fluid around the engine bay already with no results but I will try the carb cleaner. I have been thinking about de-smogging the engine as there has not been an enforcement of smog laws in this area. I'm sure that would eliminate alot of the vacuum issues. Also wondering if anyone has used a carb rebuild kit from canadian tire? And or if someone can recommend a reputable online dealer that should cary a kit. NAPA here wants to charge $130+ for a rebuild kit. That seems like way, WAY too much for a rebuild kit. I just bought a kit for my old chevy and it was only $24... I kow toyotas are good and all but really? Thats robbery. Tag on carb said 35270, napa part # 21235A, canadian tire part # 10750A. Canadian Tire kit is $53, online is probably cheaper but I can't find the appropriate kit. Help is appreciated.

Kaledrah

I have put in a carb kit to no avail. Carb was clean inside and gaskets were in mint shape. Changed all that came with the kit and readjusted the float. I'm getting a little sick of the carb on this truck and I'm wondering if maybe I should just replace it with a weber or something else.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Have you set the idle screw? To make sure its actually touching the throttle plate and is manually holding it open(which causes it to idle high or low...)

And did you pinch of the vacuum hose going to the brake booster? The diaghram can rupture causing a vacuum leak.

Did you verify that the EGR valve is not caked up causing the pintle to be lifted, which also causes a vacuum leak. Or that the EGR is even working properly at the right time? If you can get it to idle just a little, you can stick your fingers or a blunt object on the bottom side of the EGR valve and lift the dighram and the engine should start to run very rough or die altogether.

Kaledrah

EGR valve and all emissions controls have been removed. The only vacuum lines that are left are the brake booster and the 2 that run to the dizzy. All of which have been replaced. It helped smooth the idle but I am still having the truck die on deceleration with or without brakes.

Kaledrah

i have screwed all adjustment screws all the way in and all the way out while the truck is running. the only screw that seems to affect anything is the choke screw.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Just FYI but the EGR valve isnt just for emissions. It also helps keep combustion temps down to prevent detonation and overheating. Anyway, if there is a ruptured or leaking diaghram in the booster you can still have brakes, but it will allow a vacuum leak.

You said that you adjusted all screws but only choke makes any difference. Even if you adjust the idle set screw, nothing happens? You cant raise the idle up?

BoostedRNR

Try pulling out the air mixture screw and blow compressed air through the opening. My old Toy had something stuck in the passage and ran like a champ after a little air

Kaledrah

nothing happens all the way in or all the way out. I ruled out the brake booster already by disconnectiong it and plugging the line. There are no vacuum leaks tested with both carb cleaner and starting fluid. I will try running air through the passages as boosted recommended but the passages looked and felt clear when I rebuilt the carb. I feel like I have no other option but to replace the carb but it will eat up all of my tire money and the truck will be literally useless in the winter. Even as a 4x4 you still need skins to make it work... I have bald rain slicks on the truck right now as it was the only thing I had kicking around to tow it with. Really looking for a $2 fix here guys, please keep up the awesome help. Thanks alot

BoostedRNR

Yea I thought the same thing when I rebuilt my carb. Nothing really looked that gummed up and when I slapped it back together it still didn't want to idle. Took a air chuck with a rubber nozzle and solved the problem real quick. Me and my brother had the same problem on a Chevy with a Elderbrock carb. I'm sure glad I didn't have to buy a new carb