lilbigtruck

hi, i have an 84 22r carb longbed that just shut down while driving and i can't figure what went wrong. it cranks just fine and the rotor is still spinning.

so far i have done the following
checked fuses i could find, under dash, next to battery
checked for spark at 2 different plugs
checked for spark directly from the coil
checked for power at coil, had 11.9 volts
all resistance test in my hanes manual were in spec
swapped coils with know working one
then i swapped the coil and igniter ( think that's what it's called)
still no spark directly from the coil to a spark plug
ohms on my distributor wiring are in spec but i tried a different distributor to

i'm not sure what to look at next.

could it be in the wiring near the key?
are there any relays i should look for? looking for suggestions
thanks

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Got fuel?

lilbigtruck

mechanical fuel pump is squirting away, also i can see gas through the window in the carb and smell it when i am cranking.
pretty sure it's electrical

anyone know what the little square thing is that mounts onto the coil/ignitor assembly? it's about 1"x1" and has 2 wires i unplugged it's connector and it gets 12 volts with the key on but no resistance or continuity when i tested the other side of the connector(the acutual part in question)

Zim

Its a resistor. Not sure, but sounds like its testing fine.

lilbigtruck

if my alternator went out would the truck keep running or would it cause the truck to die?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The alternator should provide enough power for the engine, all accessories, and slightly charge the battery. If the alternator dies, the truck will run off the battery alone until there isn't any juice left in the battery, then that's all she wrote....

But you said you had ~12V, right? What about amperage? A battery can have 12V, but hardly any amperage, which is mostly what a vehicle needs. The amperage to push the 12V wherever it's needed. But you said it cranks fine?

Could you be more specific about your spark test? Mare you getting good, hot, blue spark out of the coil? If so, are you getting good spark through the coil wire into the dizzy?

If you aren't getting spark out to the coil, verify you have 12V to the positive terminal on the coil. The negative side will only receive a pulse signal from the Hall effect sensor in the dizzy. That's what signals the coil to release the stored energy(spark).

lilbigtruck

i don't know the amps but it cranks solid and i have kept the battery on a charger at night.

i have 11.9 or more at the green plug going into the igniter.

for the spark test i took a new plug and attached it to the #1 plug wire end out of the distributor, touched it to a ground that worked on my tester for continuity to ground, held it in place and reached though the door and cranked and looked for spark and hoped not to get shocked, then i did the same with the #3 plug wire, also tried clipping a wire to the metal on the plug and running the other end to ground and cranking, no spark.

i did the same test's with two different plug wires connected directly to the coil and a new plug, no spark

to verify i have 12V to the positive terminal on the coil, would i test for 12v at the connector that goes into the coil from the ignitor? i have slightly less than 12v at the green plug going to the ignitor.

thanks

how do you test the hall effect sensor? is it the part under the cap that the distributor wires connect to?

lilbigtruck

fixed.
igniter from friends 83 and it fired right up

ron7142

Is the ignitor located in the distributor

Drick41

I'm new to this site and can not post a thread yet but I'm in need of some help! I have an 84 pickup 4x4 22R and yesterday my son took my key out of the ignition while it was in the on position idk how but needless to say it wouldn't crank this morning. I am very inexperienced but trying to learn btw. I tried to jump it off and it wouldn't even make a sound. So I bump started it downhill...started and ran fine. Next I took the battery to be tested and it was bad. I put a new battery in but same issues occurred. Next I took my starter off and had it tested, it was good. So I did some research and with advice from a few local (mechanics over the phone) I replaced the ignition switch. Still the same issues...nothing would happens at all when turning the key. Throughout all of this I cleaned up the terminals redid any fray wires near the battery and made sure everything was tight from the starter to the alternator to the spark plugs and distributor. Finally I traced wire to fuses and found a bigger yellow fuse that said b60- 30v it was blown so I replaced it and it cranked right over. I let it run for about ten minutes then shut off my truck and put all the dash/steering column pieces back together. When I tried to start it to park it back in the garage it wouldn't crank. It was getting power fuel and air. The plugs looked fine as well. I'm lost in the sauce as to what I can do to get my baby running right again. I have a tight budget and already threw $250 at the truck today and it still isn't running! Please help. I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge and experience but that's why I joined this site...to learn from ppl that have a vastly larger knowledge base than I. Thanks for reading and any input will be greatly appreciated.