My Questions:
1. The wiring harness to the alt. has the round plug with a black wire coming off of it that goes to the top of the alt. and then a long black wire as well with a ring terminal that I assumed was a ground. Is this correct? 10/4/11 - I am still wondering about this one, does anyone mind popping their hood and just looking for me please?

2. The electric choke on the carb.. and from what i've read maybe fuel shut-off? is there a way to wire this up so it will work or should I just research a manual choke? 10/4/11 - As of right Now, according the the only picture I could find thanks to bluebass and the 22r Carb faq. I believe that three out of four wires are positive and 1 wire is ground. there are 2 black wires on the harness, 1 white w/ black stripe and one a diff color so as of Right now they are all wired to Positive and one ground.

History:

Ok, so ive been lurking for quite some time now, searching, and searching more.

I have been looking for a toyota for quite awhile, and I found one. Its an 86 4x4 Turbo truck, that someone took the 22RET out and put a 22R in the 22R was from a celica and its a pre-84 motor.

Here is what I know
When they swapped out the motors, they used the truck oil pan.. however, they didn't use much anything else from the truck.. or the car.. the celica motor has about 50k on it.

So far, I have replaced/added
Alternator
Alternator Brackets
Water Pump
Upper and Lower Rad hoses
Heater core hoses/making my own
Carb throttle cable and brackets
Misc. bolts
Took out fuel pump, added small rubber hose and a brake line with a Sock that has a 90deg bend on it it hits the bottom of tank
added a fuel filter inline near carb.
Thermostat
Heater control valve
Oil dipstick tube
Batt positive and ground to 2GA, main wire to fuse panel 6GA, added 2nd fuse panel with ford starter solenoid as relay to power things such as the 3 wires on the carb that have no where to go.

When I got the truck it would not crank off of key, it had a push button under hood.
It now cranks from key,

Now, heres my questions.

EFI Wiring was left in place. However, Temp gauge and Oil pressure gauges are Not working. Fuel gauge appears to be working Volt meter also appears to be working, but it is extremely high.

Im sure there are a ton of other questions in my mind but I simply cant think of them right now.. I am considering taking the gauge cluster out and seeing if it is possible to put aftermarket gauges in place of the volt/fuel/water/oil.. Somehow or another the tach is working.. The EFI computer is still hooked up hanging down on the floorboard.

I want to leave the EFI harness in place as I am considering changing it over to EFI over the summer. I need to drive it this winter for work and I need it to be dependable.

As of right now it runs pretty decent, a few hiccups water is def. not passing through the thermostat but that will be fixed tomorrow actually cranks pretty easy.

I only paid $750 for the truck, so far I've bought the water pump $30, alternator (this is for the 90's Automatic trucks runs at 70amps instead of 60) $79, thermo and gasket $15, Upper and Lower Rad hoses $25, junkyard parts (carb throttle cable, rubber for pass door, heater core hose, alt brackets, misc bolts etc) $40, wheels $80, steering wheel and adapter ~$60, battery $80, brake line sock fuel filter $30, clamps $15, Heater Control Valve and Oil Dipstick tube $15, re-wiring batt to starter batt to ground new fuse box solenoid etc $100, ive also bought other things I didn't need.. and just simply either took back or had to eat the cost because i'd already modified the part.. so ~$25 - all that is left now is tires maybe a little sheet metal and paint.. the bed has some rust behind the tire drivers side.
So, as of now im in it at about $1345 bux wanting to finish at about $1500.

Thank you for any and all help!

 

Anyone at all?