Shagool22

Good idea, that is what I'll do. I've been looking at pictures everywhere and can't figure anything out.. I will look into if there are different motor mounts for different applications (years/4x4vs2x4)

Shagool22

Yup all I found was some pieces of RTV and a seal spring from a valve seal. Ran a magnet through before cleaning/dumping out oil pan luckily, the oil pump gear wasn't grinding together. There was enough clamping force between oil pump/timing cover to keep that from happening. Was a clean break. The piece that broke off is just a collar/spacer that slides into housing

Shagool22

Thanks for the offers.. Although I'm think 2wd/4wd motor mounts are possibly different. They mount to the frame in different locations anyway. I'm going to do some research to see if I can confirm that. Have any 2wd mounts you could snap a pic of by chance?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I have some 2wd trucks, but they have all the options so not the greatest for getting photos (ac/power steering). I have a guy buying all my 22re stuff, so I'll be pulling the 87 2wd 22r long box xtra cab engine that I'm thinking of.

Based purely on what I've seen from Toyota, the 2wd vs 4x4 frames are probably different, but the mounts and brackets are probably the same. LIke the front diff for a T100 is the same as a 4runner and pickup, but the cv axles were made longer due to the wider frame. Even the manual lockouts swap on .

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I tried to snap a few photos, the one 2wd didn't have AC so passenger side was a clear shot.

Can't really see too great but the photos are ordered as:

2wd Passenger side
2wd Drivers side
4x4 Passenger side
4x4 Drivers side

Shagool22

Thanks for the pics!! The 2wd motor mounts look identical to mine. It's gotta be something wrong with my steering or suspension

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Not a problem. Were you needing the oil pump drive or is there a source for them new? I have the whole oil pump assembly. The engine appeared to have been rebuilt at home by someone that didn't really know what they were doing. They didn't torque things down enough, including the rods, so one came loose and knocked a hole in the side of the block. Head gasket and such looked like new when I pulled it apart.

Shagool22

sorry I called the part the wrong name. Your picture is indeed the oil pump drive gear. I need the actual oil pump gears. The smaller of the two is the one that broke the drive gear is fine. But I was able to get new to me (used) ones from a Buddy for free lol. The oil pump is brand new as we're the gears. Probably a cheap pump. It's stamped USA but idk the manufacturer. I would replace with a new pump but trying to salvage the most that I can as I'm on a budget. Replacing the whole head with a new one and replacing timing chain. Plus gasket kit and new head bolts and such. Everything is adding up quick.

Shagool22

The tie rod running oil pan I still can't figure out what the issue is. Is this the proper oil pan?

greyheadedguy

Is that the right oil pan is a good question. I pulled the engine out of my 2x and put it in my new(to me) 4x4 and I had to change the oil pan. A 4x4 oil pan is a lot deeper then a 2x oil pan.

Here is a link to a 2x oil pan:
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...AgwCA..i&w=250

and a 4x4 oil pan:
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...AEwAQ..i&w=320

I hope this helps,
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greyheadedguy

Here is a thought, I had a problem with my truck, 22R engine out of my 1985 2x Toyota Pickup. I believe it is called the auxiliary accelerator pump. It is a 3 holed diaphragm that goes in the carburetor on the side by the valve cover gasket. If the diaphragm has failed it will flood your engine at idle and not run so good. It is easy to check. Pull the vacuum line to it and if it has gas in it the diaphragm has failed and needs to be replaced. You can replace it without removing the carburator. I did, I pulled one out of the bad engine I got with my 4x4. Price seems high for it at this place but here is a link showing a picture of what it looks like: http://www.partsgeek.com/1lpdvsr-toy...FYFYfgodbjoB3Q

good luck,

grey

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Based on those google pics, OP has a 2wd oil pan (notice the several grooves). Since we're not going after the mounts, it's possible the drag link got bent. Pretty sure it should be nice and stright/flat, no bow etc. New drag link for my 2wd 86 pickup was around $100, but my oem one had a bad joint on it that someone rigged up with soft rubber. Drove great on clear roads, snowy rows it was all over the place.

For the AARP, the fuel in gas line is a great test. My truck had that, ruff idle and I could tell it was because of running rich. Ended up just cutting a gasket and making a block off for it. Really isn't needed unless you go from idle to floored all the time (racing etc). Another way to "delete" it would be to pull the line and block it off, and put a vacuum line cap on the port on the carb.

Also no prob on the oil pump parts. I read it for what it was, and thought it looked a bit different than what I remembered lol.

Shagool22

thanks for the pics but my oil pan doesn't look like either of those lol.

Shagool22

i figured out the running horribly issues. Had 2 cooked exhaust valves and a bent valve spring. And I'm running a Weber carb not factory.
Thanks for the info tho! Currently waiting for new head, gaskets, head bolts, and timing chain set to arrive

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I haven't heard any probs with the aftermarket weber carbs, but it could have the same prob as any carb, dirty inside, jets getting plugged etc, never hurts to clean them or "rebuild" as people like to put it with new jets.

No fun with the exhaust valves and the bent valve spring, could be worse though.

The images linked reminded me of the 2wd 95 pickup I pulled the pan for someone, it also had the several grooves and I think it dipped the same way as the pics. Maybe the older engines were slightly different shaped.

I did some googling and didn't come up with any exact matches. Celicas and MR2's had the 22re engine in the past, but the oil pan pics I found of them didn't match. Maybe nothing is wrong and it's just the oil pan, question I'm wondering is what machine did the engine come out of then (assuming it was swapped). When you pull the head, check if it has "domed" pistons or flat top. Flat top should be 84+, domed is 83 and older and the whole front of the engine is ever so slightly taller where nothing interchanges.

greyheadedguy

I went and looked at other oil pans and yours looks funny to me. I have both oil pans from my two trucks. And neither one of them looks like your oil pan. From what I'm reading it fits the 20R and 22R engines. Here are links to a couple other 22R oil pans Second one has the best pictures:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2wd-oil-pan-...AAAOSwbsBXpPxD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-PAN-20R-...VYPyzV&vxp=mtr

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Shagool22

no idea what it came out of. Flat top pistons, pear shaped exhaust holes on head. The motor screams 84-85. But I've never seen that oil pan and can't find anything on it..

Shagool22

very strange.. I can't find one like mine anywhere either.. thanks for looking

Shagool22

Another thing, oil pan had a cork gasket. It's not grooved for RTV. So I believe that makes it pre 85? Could be wrong

greyheadedguy

Shagool22, should you decide to change your oil pan, it is critical to make sure you have the correct oil pan pickup tube in the oil pan. I learned this when I changed a 2x engine into a 4x4 engine. You likely already knew that, but I would hate to not say it and you or someone reading this fry an engine because they kept an old oil pan pickup tube.

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