1985 4runner hard cold start
#1
1985 4runner hard cold start
just got an 85 runner 22re... when its cold it doesnt want to start unless i give it gas... but then it loads it self up runs choppy untill its warm... trucks got a new tune up... and it idles really low when it warms up almost stalling ... anyone got any ideas?
Last edited by Dexter350k; Oct 29, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
#2
22r? re? if its a r, check that your choke and fast idle are working. If its a RE, somebody with a better understanding of EFI can help you. You can tell because on the front top of the engine it will say "22R" or "22RE". In addition, the 22RE will have a shiny thing on the left that says "EFI"
To check the choke, get in and pump the gas once or twice. Then remove air filter cover (big round thing to left of engine), and look. Both plates should be closed. If they are not, something with your choke is messed up. Hope this helps.
To check the choke, get in and pump the gas once or twice. Then remove air filter cover (big round thing to left of engine), and look. Both plates should be closed. If they are not, something with your choke is messed up. Hope this helps.
#4
Well I will attempt to tell you what I know about EFI. I think there is a "cold start injector" in there somewhere that is supposed to richen the mixture for when it is cold. The symptoms you describe is like my truck when the choke wasn't working. I would think to look for a disconnected wire around the EFI unit first. Is the CEL on?
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#8
Does the motor excessively crank before starting? Does the engine go into a cold fast idle immediately after it's started?
The cold start injector has nothing to do with the mixture while running, it just shoots extra gas into the intake while cranking only.
The auxiliary air valve is responsible for increase the idle depending on engine temperature. Most of the time the orifice in the throttle body just gets plugged and the air valve cannot function.
The cold start injector is controlled by the cold start injector time switch. Cold start injectors rarely go bad. 99 times out of 100 it's the cold start injector time switch that goes bad, causing the cold start injector to never cycle on.
The cold start injector has nothing to do with the mixture while running, it just shoots extra gas into the intake while cranking only.
The auxiliary air valve is responsible for increase the idle depending on engine temperature. Most of the time the orifice in the throttle body just gets plugged and the air valve cannot function.
The cold start injector is controlled by the cold start injector time switch. Cold start injectors rarely go bad. 99 times out of 100 it's the cold start injector time switch that goes bad, causing the cold start injector to never cycle on.
#10
ok i will check the throttle body tomarrow and see what happens.....
here is what the truck does... it turns over like its about to start and just pukes out... unless you pump the gas to get it going... then you have to hold the gas for a min or two in order for it to idle... but it idles real low and choppy untill the truck is warmed up...
here is what the truck does... it turns over like its about to start and just pukes out... unless you pump the gas to get it going... then you have to hold the gas for a min or two in order for it to idle... but it idles real low and choppy untill the truck is warmed up...
#11
The air valve is definitely at fault. Like I said previously, it may only be plugged orifices in the throttle body causing the problem.
Remove the large rubber intake hose that connects to the throttle body. Remove the hose that comes out the left side of the throttle body by the idle adjustment screw. If you feel around inside on the left of the throttle body, you'll come across a couple orifices. Thoroughly clean these orifices with carb or throttle body cleaner. Cleaner should shoot out the left side of the throttle body where the hose was initially connected.
Failure to remove the hose leading from the throttle body to the air valve may result in shorting out the heating element in the air valve. Ask me how I know........
If that doesn't solve the problem, then you need to ohm out the heater unit in the air valve. Disconnect the plug in the rear of the air valve and ohm it out. I believe the specs are between 20 and 40 ohms.
Good luck!
#15
I'd like to re-establish this thread if I may, as I have a similar problem with a slight twist. I live in Canada and drive an 86 22re pickup. When temps hit well below 0* (-20 and colder *C, or -4*F), I turn the key, the CEL does not light up, the engine cranks, and will not start. Fortunately I'm usually at end of work (so it's been sitting approx. 10 hrs with block heater plugged in, which works by the way) shift and buddies help me push it inside. Now here's what baffles me. (This is the 4th winter I've owned it and happens sporadically over the cold months.)
Once inside in the warm, I know from experience now to wait approx. 10 mins, and it fires right up normally with the CEL illuminated with the other dash lights.
Could this be the air valve bi-metal part acting up? Any insights into what to replace or fix would be great.
Once inside in the warm, I know from experience now to wait approx. 10 mins, and it fires right up normally with the CEL illuminated with the other dash lights.
Could this be the air valve bi-metal part acting up? Any insights into what to replace or fix would be great.
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