Hi All,

New to the forum and have been reading up as much as possible. I live in Sandpoint, ID and just traded off a 1995 Runner that was in bad shape. Lucked out into a sweet 84 ex cab truck 22r that had been sitting for a while. It has a working Warn XD9000I, onboard air, lift and 33s. Open diffs with stock gearing. I hope to put 5.29s front and rear, rear locker, power steering and 35s on it. So far I replaced the fuel pump, filters, changed fluids, cap, wires, rotor, and got the truck running pretty good. Had to tinker with the carb quite a bit and put some new studs in the exhaust Manifold to stop the exhaust leaks. Also had to go through the wiring to get wipers, lights and gauges to work.

Now that I've got everything working I noticed it was clunking so I found the rear drive shaft had a bad carrier bearing and needed new U joints, so after collecting the parts and pulling the shaft the rear slip joint is seized and I can not get it to break free. Been trying to find just the rear portion of the shaft to no avail. Tried the local yards, ebay, craigslist and even ordered one from a yard and it showed up as a one piece 2 inches too long even after I asked the guy over and over again if it was the LWB 2 peice with a carrier bearing. Gotta send that one back now! Guys keep telling me just to go to a one piece.

Any advice on finding just the rear section without breaking the bank? Maybe I should go to a one piece, but seems like it would limit the flex on the rear shaft and put the shaft closer to the ground and harms way that way. Already lifted and running 33x12.50s I have read a bunch but keep coming back to square one. Anybody know where I might be able to find just that rear section? Should I punt and just find a one piece?

I'll post some pics as soon as I can get back to the shop to shoot some photos.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Been loving this forum! Can't wait to get that rear end fixed and get out and do some wheeling!

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

 

Best way to remedy this: eliminate the 2-piece shaft by having a one-piece made, with a SFA Toyota FRONT driveshaft CV joint(or clearance an IFS CV joint)(Check 4x4wire site), with minimal .095 wall tubing. Point the rear diff at the t-case(yes, it's advisable to cut and relocate rear spring perches), and you are good to go.

 

are you going to get serious about the truck? it probably doesn't have the later 8" ring/pinion in it? if not, you'll probably want the later, wider, v-6 rear end in it, with the spring mounts relocated, and the pinion rotated up.

at that point it'll probably require a custom cv driveshaft.

 

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

 

Has anyone ever had the 4cyl third fail where the 6cyl wouldn't have? I'm running the 4cyl third on 3x factory power and its still in one piece.

Hoss, how have you tried to make the slip joint move? Go drive down a rough road, really fast, with sand bags in the back. That should cause enough suspension travel to free it up.

But on a serious note, a driveline shop can just put a new one in. It doesn't have to be toyota specific, as long as the length and diameter are the same you'll be fine.

 

ultimately, after upgrading everything, the 8" ring/pinion becomes the weakest component in the toyota axle system... that's true front or back axle.

go straight to the v-6 rear, and upgrade the factory toyota axle shafts asap, they bend pretty easily... i think that i even have a bent trail gear axle in back right now :-/

 

Already have it off the truck, but I did soak it in PB Blaster, heated it, hooked one side to a tree and the other to my F-150 and pulled the crap out of it and it still wouldn't break loose. Even snapped the chain.... I think it's toast. The pull angle could have been binding it though. I would like to go to the one piece, but moving the shock mounts and changing the diff angle is a little more involved than my $$$ and my modest shop will allow at this time. Plan to build it up over time as money will allow. Really just want to get it up and running at this point. I'm just gonna keep searching for another shaft. Found one in Oregon, but the guy wants $350 and with a bad center support bearing. Was hoping to find something for around 100-150. Gonna go hit the yards again this weekend.. Hopefully I'll come up with something. I'm gonna broaden my hunt to other makes that may be similar. Just need it to be 31 inches flange to flange with a slip yoke in it. Frustrating trying to find such a simple part and coming up short.

Thanks guys!

 

I'm pretty sure other makes won't interchange, but I know other models of Yotas will. And some have the one-piece shaft from the factory. Just find the length for your needs.

 

trans flange to pinion flange is only 31"? my dual-cased 4runner is 31.5" flange to flange.

you are already running 33's, so you have some ground clearance, just go with a single shaft, like rokblok and nothingbetter said earlier... it'll be much stronger without the carrier bearing.

any toyota single shaft with the proper ends and yoke can be retubed to length by your local shop.

funny thing is, i was just today in the local self-pull yard, there were three yotas with split shafts in there! they all looked like rusty dented garbage tho.

 

Found a guy to weld in a new slip yoke on the one I already have. He's going to take the slip yoke off the solid one I ordered that was the wrong length and mate it to the correct one that I originally took off. Already bought the new center support bearing and u-joints, so this should be the easiest route for now. He said 80 bucks to weld it up and balance it. Stoked! Hopefully I'll be out running it by sometime next week. I do like the idea of the solid shaft though. Gonna slowly start collecting parts as the bank account will allow for the new gears and a rear locker. Maybe I'll go ahead and do the one piece then as I suspect that center support bearing will always end up being a thorn in my side. I think I found a guy with an almost complete power steering set up, just need the gear box after that. Also found an SR5 gauge cluster. This is too much fun. Can't wait to actually get out on some trails.

I had a 94 wrangler when I was in High School with a 7" lift, 33s, ARB lockers front and rear and the funny thing is it had the exact same winch and wheels as my current set up. It's been 14 years since I had that jeep. Digging in to this truck brings back some great memories. I'll get some photos as soon as I can get to the truck with my camera.

Thanks again guys!

 

Finally got the drive shaft figured out. I had a local big rig shop cut down the one that was too big to match the one with the seized yoke. Truck drives like a champ now. No vibrations even at 65. Went up some light duty trails this weekend truck does awesome. Definitely gonna gear down a bit as even 1st low is too fast and power steering needs to get installed ASAP. Picture as promised. Thanks for all the help!
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How did you figure out your center support bearing was bad? I have humming I n the back I can't figure out I'm wondering if this is it

 

Just reach under the truck and grab the drive shaft and shake it around if there is much play check the rubber in the center support bearing. It will most likely be worn out. Also could be u-joints. Pretty simple stuff....

 

Thanks dude!

 

Its bad when the driveshaft puts a hole in your body... or maybe you should check it....

Personal experience

 

I like the 84...... my 84 is gettin a motor this weekend.... With the two piece shaft. My rear most shaft is actually out of a ford. its a lil longer an requires switching caps on the cv joints.
I've never had any problem with my rear end... 5.29ar lockers

 

Please elaborate

 

Carrier bearing failed doin some good offroading. didnt know it was even vibrating till I hopped on the highway... then she went all the way out... drive shaft smack a couple times pretty good... split the body in one spot underneath.... Not enough to bother me.... its gonna rust faster there now...
But you you drive something that doesn't normally vibrate you'll know... an if you spend enough time on the black top fixing all those vibrations is a good idea